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OilField Pipe Welding

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Skinner

03-22-2003 17:14:09




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I usually build most of my pens, fences, and gates using 2-3/8" production tubing. I always seem to have problems when I weld on it. It could be me, because pipe always eats my lunch.
I saddle the pipe then weld it with a dc machine using 6011 set about 80-90 amps, set any higher I just burn through. When I come back the next day, some of the pipe cracks about 1/8" away from the weld. I was told by a welder to put my 6011 on it then always cap with 7018. I do this and it works. Why can't I just weld it all up with 7018 and what is causing it to crack?

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mikeinmo

03-23-2003 17:12:38




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 Re: OilField Pipe Welding in reply to Skinner, 03-22-2003 17:14:09  
Sounds like everyone has you on the right track. I prefer the 7018 myself running on dc reverse polarity if you have a dc welder. On the subject of joints, I welded corrals for a long time and always spent most of my time fitting to get a good weld. You MUST have a good fit. Finally I discovered the shur-cut pipe templates from Taylor and Sons in Chickasaw OK. They clamp around the top of your posts and then you run your torch around it and you get a perfect saddle every time. Very little grinding at all. They come in various sizes depending on what pipe you are using. For about 50 bucks and shipping you will be set. On the subject of oilfield pipe, I used it for a long time but now we are buying random lengths and irregular pieces of new round tubing. Same price and SO much better to work with. No crude oil slime and smell and no more blowtorches out of the top your posts when fitting the top rail. Good Luck.

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Rex Kuntzelman

03-23-2003 14:33:02




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 Re: OilField Pipe Welding in reply to Skinner, 03-22-2003 17:14:09  
I use 7014 for similiar projects, with good results.



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T_Bone

03-23-2003 12:47:46




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 Re: OilField Pipe Welding in reply to Skinner, 03-22-2003 17:14:09  
Hi Skinner,

I think it's time you take the time to find out why pipe eats your lunch. Half the battle of welding pipe or verticle up is in your head and since you think you going to fail, you will.

Your using 3/32" rods and thats fine but your moving too slow. This happens alot when you've been using 1/8" rod as your used too looking at carrying that massive weld puddle, therefor you move too slow trying to get that wide molten puddle. Another cause is your watching the "slag" puddle and not the molten puddle.

I suggest you get some scrap plate, run some verticle up beads while paying close attention to whats a molten weld puddle and whats slag. Use a close arc length with a flat to 5* rod angle. Pipe is welded with the same techinque. Try moving too slow, too fast, hold a long arc length, a very close arc length, etc. You will quickly find out what your "were" doing wrong.

The cracks can be caused by several reasons that BFO covered. Oil left on pipe will add carbon to the weld puddle and too much carbon will make the weld or surrounding base metal very brittle when cooled.

Weld joint fit up also controls cracking. Make sure your final fit-up is with-in 1/8" gap opening. What happens with large gaps is you apply alot of weld in a short area and when it cools it draws very hard and quick thus craking the surrounding base metal because of two different cooling rates. It's also very hard to control porosity on the back side of the weld with large gaps.

T_Bone

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Skinner

03-23-2003 17:10:01




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 Re: Re: OilField Pipe Welding in reply to T_Bone, 03-23-2003 12:47:46  
Hey T-Bone, I'm using 1/8" rods for everything. What is cracking is after I weld the 6011 and it cools. I also start at the top and weld to the bottom then get on the other side and do the same thing. The 6011 weld looks good, but thats not the item cracking. I use 6011 so I don't have to do all the cleaning before welding like I would using 7018. I am welding up some good 1/4" gaps at some joints, and how I fill them is to get the puddle going on my 4" pipe then push it into the gap onto the 2-3/8" pipe.

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Deas Plant.

03-23-2003 11:06:11




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 Re: OilField Pipe Welding in reply to Skinner, 03-22-2003 17:14:09  
Hi, Skinner & BFO. Thanks for reminding me about electrode moisture, BFO.
For best performance, electrodes ought to be stored in moisture free environment. This is relatively easy to do. Any old metal box or tin trunk that is long enough to take the electrodes and around 9 inches to a foot deep will do it. Simply set the box up with props inside it to support a 'false bottom' about halfway up the box and install a 25, 40 or 60 watt light globe in the bottom section of the box on a bracket that keeps the glass section of the globe clear of any part of the box. Then store your electrodes in the top section of the box and leave the light turned on at all times. This will generate enough warmth in the box to keep your electrodes from gathering moisture in the flux.
An old refrigerator that has a functioning interior light will also do the job very nicely. Simply bypass the door switch so that the interior light is on at all times and disconnect the compressor and any fans. This will give storage space for an awful lot of electrodes or for some other moisture-sensitive items as well.
Hope this helps.
You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.

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BFO

03-23-2003 08:00:49




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 Re: OilField Pipe Welding in reply to Skinner, 03-22-2003 17:14:09  
I'm gonna go out on a limb here and suggest that you are experiencing cold-cracking, or delayed hydrogen cracking, which can happen up to two weeks after welding. Cold cracks are caused by hydrogen atoms trapped in the weld metal. The hydrogen comes from surface contaminants on the joint, such as oil, grease, paint or scale, and excessive moisture in the electrode coating. It doesn't take very much hydrogen to cause a failure, so the best bet is to use a basic electrode(7018) right out of the rod oven and clean the joint.HTH

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Fred OH

03-24-2003 02:43:17




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 Re: Re: OilField Pipe Welding in reply to BFO, 03-23-2003 08:00:49  
Bill...could be that the tubing is cold drawn and all cold rolled metal should be welded with 7018. It isn't underbead cracking (as is usually the case) because there is thinner metal next to it to do the cracking. L8R....Fred OH



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BFO

03-24-2003 04:27:59




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 Re: Re: Re: OilField Pipe Welding in reply to Fred OH, 03-24-2003 02:43:17  
Good point Fred, didn't think of that when I originnally posted, then the shrinkage would be greater with a 1/4 gap as well. Good joint prep, some preheat, and dry 7018, problem solved :-)



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