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Discussion Forum

Welding rod

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Tyler(WA)

04-25-2000 07:05:39




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I've been doing some light welding with mild "junk" steel. Actually, it's 1/8" angle iron salvaged from old bed frames and I'm using 3/32 rod.

I ran out of the 6011 rod that I've been used to and bought 6013 this time. Both are mild steel "60xx" and both are all position "xx1x" with the only difference being the coating on the rods.

These new rods are easier to establish an arc with and the arc is MUCH more stable with a lot less splatter. I realized how "trigger shy" I've become with the 6011 as I had trouble even starting the arc with the 6013. Once I became a little bolder, the arc came easy and it was a joy to use. The 6011 rod would stick if I wasn't careful and I'd lose about 1/3 of a rod in about every 4 due to it getting stuck hard and cooking the remaining rod while I was trying to break it free. I haven't had one of these 6013 rods get stuck yet.

I wouldn't have guessed that rod coating would make this much difference between very similar rods.

The only disadvantage I see is that the 6013 rod has a brown coating rather than the light gray of the 6011. The darker coating is harder to see under the lamps with my hood down. This is hardly a problem.

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Steve U.S. Alloys

04-26-2000 05:54:25




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 Re: Welding rod in reply to Tyler(WA), 04-25-2000 07:05:39  
Coatings are the main key to producing a better electrode than your competitor. We have a core wire for instance that we use for a cast iron electrode that has 6 different coatings that actually creates 6 different electrodes. One of the coatings simply prevents side arcing for applications in recessed areas. Another contains metal that increases deposit efficiency for a total of 140% deposit efficiency. We do use a different core wire chemistry to create an electrode for welding cast to cast and use a different wire to create an electrode for joining cast to steel. We also took one of those wires and copper coated it to enhance electrical conductivity, cool the wire, enhance arc characteristics and lower the amperage setting all at the same time. Wire chemistry and concentricity are 2 of the key factors in manufacturing continuos electrodes for wire fed welders. This is also key when producing metallising wires. Other factors are involved as well. For instance, our #2 stainless is manufactured to specs of 100,000 tensile-one hole hard-bright grease drawn aside from chemistry.
Steve

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Fred

04-25-2000 20:04:35




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 Re: Welding rod in reply to Tyler(WA), 04-25-2000 07:05:39  
Hi Tyler from Fred,
I never paid any attention to what color the rod was after I put the lid down. Bout all I ever seen is a ball of fire and the weld puddle. One thing I will mention is as the summer (bug) season comes on, you will be night welding and a bug will fly across your view. About three inches from the fire his wings will disappear and then he becomes carbon induced into the weld. Hmmm. Looks like your enjoying it, try 7014 sometime. By the way, after considerable practice you should be able to change rods without breaking an arc.

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Russ

04-25-2000 08:02:17




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 Re: Welding rod in reply to Tyler(WA), 04-25-2000 07:05:39  
Tyler, as you have seen, 6013 is one of the easiest rods to run. I know of a couple weldor training programs who start everyone on it to build confidence, however it`s just too much a general purpose rod. It lacks the penetration of 6010 or 6011, I`m not aware that you can gouge with 6013 like you can with 6010 or 6011, and the base metal is supposed to be bright metal clean with 6013 for a good weld. I think that`s why 6010 and 6011(ac) are so popular for farm welding.This may be nothing more than my oppinion, so I welcome any feedback.

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Tyler(WA)

04-25-2000 08:16:06




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 Re: Re: Welding rod in reply to Russ, 04-25-2000 08:02:17  
I think you're right. The 6013 doesn't burn through near as much (penetration) and won't weld through paint, scale or rust. When I use 6011, I don't have to clean the weld area but with 6013, I do. I have a 4" grinder and use it to clean the join prior to using the stick.

The advantage of 6013 for my purpose is that this is really junk steel and it burns through easily. Since it isn't very strong anyway, the slightly weaker weld won't make much difference.

It sure lays down a good looking bead though.

If I were welding better steel, I could turn up the heat. The 6011 would then work about as well and I could put up with the splatter.

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