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OT: leaky barn roof

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LanceM

03-13-2003 16:28:50

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Hi,
Looking for some wisdom! Problem: 30+ year old pole barn, roof leaking around screws. The roof needs painted/coated as 90% of the paint is now gone from age. Since I need to coat it anyway will using that silver roof coating fix my leaks or do I need to replace the screws too since I guess the rubber seals are rotted? The building/roof is white, do they make a white roof coating? Other wise the building is in great shape, since it started raining it's dripping on my tractors and I don't want that! Any help or suggestions are apreciated!

Lance

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Robert in W. Mi

03-16-2003 07:10:09

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Re: OT: leaky barn roof in reply to LanceM, 03-13-2003 16:28:50

Many years ago when i was going to build a pole barn everyone used steel roofing. I always though quality shingles would last a lot longer. I had already been involved with trying to stop steel roofs from leaking. (around fasteners) My bld. inspecter warned me of future leaks with steel and that was my decideing factor. Also the pole barn steel i looked at was guaranteed 20 yrs on side walls, and the same steel was lowered to 15 if used on a roof. I just didn't want to have to keep painting it every 5 years or so, after the rust started. Around here all the older steel roofs are leaking and you can keep on "fixing" them, but you won't cure them, that is unless you tear it off!! I've helped several friends and my brother tear off their steel and go back and do it right!! My brother even told me when i built mine that i was makeing a mistake by NOT useing steel!! At least if you are carefull you can use that same steel for sideing your next bld.., or sell it. I'm sorry to say, you will have to keep messing with that roof untill you die, or have to get rid of it!! OR, do like some do, and let it keep leaking, as it only leaks in the spring or on rainy days!! I'm sure some here will say i'm wrong, just like my brother did. BTW, my shingles are still in excelent shape, and i have NO leaks! Robert

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paul

03-17-2003 13:17:00

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Re: Re: OT: leaky barn roof in reply to Robert in W. Mi, 03-16-2003 07:10:09

I'm not saying you are right or wrong, but we had asphalt shingles on our barn twice, they never lasted 10 years - wind took them off. Steel has been there ~20 years. It was much easier to apply, and has held up MUCH better than any tar.

Just our experiences.

I agree, if his nails pulled loose, he needs to start over, coatings or painting is a 1-5 year thing _at best_.

Using good wood, tar paper, paper, & good nails/ screws is the only way to go with tin. And I wouldn't consider anything but tin on my out buildings after picking up those %^&&% tar shingles for years, blown all over the fields & pasture.

--->Paul

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Robert in W. Mi

03-17-2003 15:35:25

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Re: Re: Re: OT: leaky barn roof in reply to paul, 03-17-2003 13:17:00

They make "locking shingles" for high wind problem area's, but to tell the truth, unless you are useing cheap shingles and scrimping on nails, they shouldn't be comeing off. Are all the barns in your area looseing shingles? Are the houses in your area looseing shingles too?? If not, don't blame it on shingles in general. There's NO doupt in my mind, that over the life of the building, shingles will last longer, and cost less to own. Also, the winters here are very hard on steel roofs, and the nails ect. that hold it on. Robert

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old bones

03-14-2003 20:36:11

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Re: OT: leaky barn roof in reply to LanceM, 03-13-2003 16:28:50

you might consider using longer screws. if your building is 30 years old, the screw seals they used back then (i thought they only used nails back then) are technologically inferior to the ones used now. back one of yours out and check the length. go with a longer screw to get into some new meat. they are available in 1", 1-1/2", 2", 2-1/2", 3", and 3-1/2" lengths, galvanized, and about 10 colors. the 1-1/2" white run about 4 cents each, in bags of 500. i did the roofs on 3 of my buildings- 40'x75', 46'x80', and 50'x50', no more leaks. any decent lumberyard will have them. if you have ringshank or the old twist shank nails, pop em out and use the screws. takes a little time, but they'll seal up better than coating the roof. i've never had any luck with caulking the heads- that's a "band-aid fix to a lacerated artery". my 2 cents.

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LanceM

03-15-2003 09:31:22

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Re: Re: OT: leaky barn roof in reply to old bones, 03-14-2003 20:36:11

I think I'll go with your idea old bones, if I'm going to be bending over to goop them up with something I might as well replace them with new. That way I can just paint the roof and forget about the coating. Seems like everyone I know that has used a roof coating is redoing it every 10 years or so, I'd rather have a white painted roof and hopefully not every have to go up there again in my lifetime.

Lance

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LanceM

03-15-2003 09:31:21

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Re: Re: OT: leaky barn roof in reply to old bones, 03-14-2003 20:36:11

Lance

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Bus Driver

03-13-2003 17:43:16

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Re: OT: leaky barn roof in reply to LanceM, 03-13-2003 16:28:50

My suggestions on this usually get shot down, but will try with my very slow typing to post again. I had the same problem. The wood under the nails- in my case-was rotted for about an inch around the nails. The boards were fortunately about 6" wide so plenty of sound wood remained. For tight nails, I used urethane sealant around the nail. NP-1 is the product and is found at commercial waterproofing contractors suppliers. Plan to use the whole tube the day it is opened. My roofing was a premium aluminum also about 30 years old. I pulled the loose nails and used a #12 stainless steel screw- no rubber washer- screw just barely snug- about 2" above the removed nail. Those screws were also covered with NP-1. Since NP-1 is probably subject to ultravoilet degrade, I coated them with RPM white elastomeric coating- shockingly expensive- but enough better than all the rest to justify the cost. Order directly from Republic Powdered Metals. Where the roof was visible form the road, I coated the entire roof section. For areas not visible, just coated the NP-1 to protect it. The RPM coating will last about 15 years and is easily renewed. My roof is aluminum and rust was not an issue. For rusty steel, the white RPM cannot be used directly over ANY amount of rust. Use an asphalt base aluminum coating, let it age about a year and then use the white as a topcoat over the entire surface. RPM makes great asphalt base coatings also- premium priced. Other than replacing all the roofing, this is the best I can suggest. This process does not expose the interior of the building to any more weather than does the existing roofing and the work can be stretched out over time.

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Bus Driver

03-13-2003 17:45:30

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Re: Re: OT: leaky barn roof in reply to Bus Driver, 03-13-2003 17:43:16

Obviously any holes left by removing a screw or nail would also be filled with NP-1.

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T_Bone

03-14-2003 07:28:26

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Re: Re: Re: OT: leaky barn roof in reply to Bus Driver, 03-13-2003 17:45:30

Hi BD,

You brought up antoher good point. I thru up a cheap storage shed and didn't use washer screws. Most places across the sheeting that wasn't a problem but on the end sheets where the wind worked the sheet, the screw head just tore thru the sheeting after a few years. A 3/16" flat washer solved that problem.

Another good caulking is Butyl(sp)?

T_Bone

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VaTom

03-14-2003 08:51:42

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Re: Re: Re: Re: OT: leaky barn roof in reply to T_Bone, 03-14-2003 07:28:26

Hey T_Bone,

Don't forget, the rest of us have to keep the rain and snow out. All you're looking for is shade:)!!!

I just bought copper for $1.395/lb (sq ft) so I wouldn't have to deal with those repair situations.

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T_Bone

03-13-2003 17:39:05

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Re: OT: leaky barn roof in reply to LanceM, 03-13-2003 16:28:50

Hi lance,

To fix it correct you need to back off the screws and add some silicon caluking under the washer then reset the screws.

Whats probablly going to happen is you'll twist off the screw heads when you try to back them out as they will be rusted. Besure and buy extra screws.

Are you sure the washers are causing the leaks?

T_Bone

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LanceM

03-14-2003 15:46:52

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Re: Re: OT: leaky barn roof in reply to T_Bone, 03-13-2003 17:39:05

Yep I sure it the screws leaking, right in the middle of a sheet. I didn't think of backing them out and putting silicon under them, but that seems like quite a task, I'm sure walking on the roof will break more of the seals, been up there once before and had leaks where I walked. Seems like a million screws up there! Thanks everyone for the suggestions, since the roof needs coated anyway to stop the rust I might just try the silver coating first and see if I can solve both problems at once.

Lance

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Bus Driver

03-14-2003 16:42:03

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Re: Re: Re: OT: leaky barn roof in reply to LanceM, 03-14-2003 15:46:52

Your feelings about the project are understandable and hopefully the results will be good. But I predict that the coating alone will help the leaks for only about a year. If then the screw heads need to be sealed with something else, anything applied over them would be bonded only to the coating applied the year before. Two alternatives available then would be to back the screws partially out- I do not recall what is under the roofing that the screws are fastened into- and to put sealant under them. The other plan (after your coating) that would not require loosening the screws would be to use relatively small pieces of the fabric used for roof patching and embed it in fresh coating over each screw head- that really is a lot of work! But it could be done for each leak as they appear. Try to walk only directly over the supports for the roof- that is a necessity for my shop.

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Hayman

03-13-2003 23:22:42

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Re: Re: OT: leaky barn roof in reply to T_Bone, 03-13-2003 17:39:05

I have put a blob of clear silicone around and on top of screws -still is good after about 15 yrs.That aluminum roofing sure works around in the wind and sun.Hot and cold.Makes the nail holes bigger. I recycled some rusty corrogated iron roofing on my barn and sprayed it with oil based black paint right over everything.It is still nice and black,too,after 6 years.

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