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Help with interior pole barn

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Mike L.

03-05-2003 02:40:11

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I had planned on just horizontal studs on the inside of the posts. Now I'm seeing drawbacks such as mounting boxes and running wire. My wall covering is going to be 12' sheets of drywall vertical to cover a wall 11' high. What are the options for pole barn interior walls? I plan on 6'' of fiberglass in the walls but my space is larger than that if I stud horizontal. I plan on a steel liner panel on 4' truss spacing with a plastic vapor barrier and 6" of blown cellouse for the cieling.

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old bones

03-07-2003 20:38:55

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Re: help with interior pole barn in reply to Mike L., 03-05-2003 02:40:11

i built my farm shop in an existing pole building (Astro). my posts are 7'6" on center, with a 14' ceiling. i put joist hangers on the sides of the posts and put 2x4's in these (edgeways, with the 1-1/2 face toward the inside, flush with the face of the 6x6 posts) horizontally, 24" on center. it took quite a few joist hangers, but i think it's the right way to do it. i then used r19 kraft faced fiberglass insulation. wiring was not a problem, just laid the boxes flat. my walls are white steel sheathing, and my ceiling is also steel with r38 cellulose insulation- about 12". i'm in northern iowa and these are the minimum recommended r values for our area. i wouldn't consider sheetrock for my shop- too easy to scuff and poke holes in, and tough to clean. be sure to install a poly vapor barrier in the ceiling if you use steel and cellulose- cellulose contains salt and it reacts negatively against steel. some would argue that you shouldn't put a vapor barrier in the ceiling because moisture needs to escape, and i would agree with them in a house, but a pole shed is not a house, and any moisture escaping through the ceiling will only collect in the cellulose where it touches the steel. i spend a lot of time in there and warmth is nice. my 2 cents

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evielboweviel

03-05-2003 14:20:33

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Re: help with interior pole barn in reply to Mike L., 03-05-2003 02:40:11

I had a 28x34 with rafters and partial second floor 2/3. I used 6" fiberglass and covered on inside with rigid foam board 4'x16'x2" walls and roof. Installed two gang elect boxes at each post and air lines at each post also in bottom of second floor. 1" ridgid board rated for ground contact under concrete floor. Heated it with a round kerosene heater, by second day it would be above 90 at 14' and about 60 at floor, with outside at 0 nite to 15 day. Planned on using hot water heat in floor and finishing inside with 5/8 firecode for fire rating. Along with multiple paddle fans to force heat back down to floor level. Had it wired for lights on wallls and ceiling, incadesent, flourescent and high press sodium (need lots of light and incadesent for color correction) Had wiring in place for two exhaust fans to be installed later. Main thing is to prewire and preplumb for anything that you may ever want.

However wife made me choice stay with building or move back to @%$#@* big city with her. Sure miss that building.

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JLK IN ARKANSAS

03-05-2003 07:33:21

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Re: help with interior pole barn in reply to Mike L., 03-05-2003 02:40:11

Mike, I have just had the upstairs of my house which is of the steel arch panel type construction insulated with what they call Poly-Icynene spray foam and am very pleased with the product. It has a much better "TRUE R VALUE" than fiberglass and would eliminate the need for a ceiling and vapor barriers. Up front cost is a little more but the savings in energy and time will make up for it not to mention that it will seal up your shop tight as a jug. Poly-Icynene is not the older urethane sprays that they have discontinued . It meets all codes same as fiberglass if not more. Check the net for info and they will find a dealer near you. If you are interested I can e-mail you some pics of my insulated upstairs. Good luck and when the going gets tough keep repeating over and over to yourself "I AM ENJOYING THIS!" If this followup appears twice, sorry just learnig to do this stuff. JLK IN ARKANSAS

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Ludwig

03-05-2003 06:06:28

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Re: help with interior pole barn in reply to Mike L., 03-05-2003 02:40:11

I'm with the guy who said to put more insulation in the roof. I'd put just as much in there as I could afford even if it ment holding off on some other projects. Unless, this is a fairly large if, you left it so it'd be easy to go back and do more. Such as putting in a layer of blown insulation and going back with the pink stuff which I've seen done here before.
Since a shop is a fairly large space usually, and since you usually have a least one fairly large door to waste heat out through it makes sense to me anyway to try and avoid energy nosebleeds where ever possible. Remember that heat will tend to rise so the roof is the best place to start throwing money to avoid heat loss.

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Robert in W. Mi.

03-05-2003 05:50:26

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Re: help with interior pole barn in reply to Mike L., 03-05-2003 02:40:11

You can nail a knotched vertical between the horizontals where ever you want a box, or just nail the boxes (sireways) to the horizontals. If you don't need them real close, you could just nail them to the post after useing a piece of 2x4 or 6 to bring the post level. I've done all of these things in the past. Running wire isn't a problem, and most can be run over head. I put a short piece of conduit to run wire through over the post. (against a horizontal) I'd want a lot more blow in insulation in the attic. It "will" settle some, so the more insulation the better!! Just be sure to vent the eaves, and roof! Don't let the insulation block air flow from the eaves into each truss bay to the attic. As for interior steel, that's fine if you aren't worried about controling an interior fire. (steel transfers heat) I chose 5/8 sheet rock (it must be at least fire taped) just because of that reason. I lost a home to a fire one time, and it opened my eyes, and changed my mind on what to put on my building interior walls. I'd probably not care so much if i didn't have most of my lifes saveing tied up into tools ect. in my building. BTW, insurance to a point fixes your pocket, but "not" your mind!! Robert

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DaveInMI

03-05-2003 03:26:41

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Re: help with interior pole barn in reply to Mike L., 03-05-2003 02:40:11

I used 1.5" hard insulation between 2x4s. 1" hard insulation next on top and then covered by OSB to hang tools on. Our building inspector approved.

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Farmer/Paul

03-05-2003 02:55:27

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Re: help with interior pole barn in reply to Mike L., 03-05-2003 02:40:11

I built my shop (40 x 56 x14 ) about 6 years ago. At the time I was going to dry wall just ceiling and use sheet metal ( same as exterior ) for the walls.

Talked with a friend in the business and he explained it to me this way. Dry wall was cheaper per sq/ft, but by the time you strap, tape and mud then paint you will have as much money or more than sheeting the interior with metal.

With sheetmetal you also do not have to worry about a hydraulic line blowing and then the clean up. Just haul out the pressure washer.

We ran 2x 6 horizontally between the posts 6 "fiberglass plus vapour barrier. The wire was run overhead and dropped down along on to the post. I put plugs every 8 to 16 feet

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