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Stainless steel

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dg

02-19-2003 05:58:48




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I cracked a weld on my stainless steel bumper pulling on a tree. Can I re-weld the crack with a regular rod and a/c stick welder? Also I'd like to reinforce the bumper in a place or two. If I weld a regular mild steel to the stainless will the two blend ok? Many thanks.




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Jerry az

02-19-2003 20:01:49




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 Re: stainless steel in reply to dg, 02-19-2003 05:58:48  
if I was to weld near a gas tank I think I'd emty the tank and purge it with argon or another inert gas 2-3 psi..... ..jer



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KB

02-19-2003 16:55:55




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 Re: stainless steel in reply to dg, 02-19-2003 05:58:48  
If you are sure it is SST then use SST rod. Using mild steel rod will make it rust. Also, avoid using regular steel wire wheels and brushes on the weld since fine particals of steel will embed themselves in the weld and steel and will make it get a rust stain on it. Hope that helps.



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Canadian Cowboy

02-19-2003 15:06:17




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 Re: stainless steel in reply to dg, 02-19-2003 05:58:48  
are you sure its stainless steel ? could it be steel dipped in crome ?



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George Bush

02-19-2003 14:42:51




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 Re: stainless steel in reply to dg, 02-19-2003 05:58:48  
No, you're screwed.



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Dan, IN

02-19-2003 09:01:38




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 Re: stainless steel in reply to dg, 02-19-2003 05:58:48  
E-309 is a stainless rod that is used to weld 300 series stainless to carbon steel. There should be a version of this rod that will run on a AC machine. Check with your welding supply house.



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Scott Green

02-20-2003 04:48:18




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 Re: Re: stainless steel in reply to Dan, IN, 02-19-2003 09:01:38  
Another rod used to weld stainless to carbon is called "inconel". Maybe inconel and 309 are the same rod , I'm not shure.



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Bud in NC

02-19-2003 09:00:08




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 Re: stainless steel in reply to dg, 02-19-2003 05:58:48  
I'd guess that it's probably a 308 SS - at any rate, 308 or 309 is the rod you use for bi-metal welds. If you don't get the same filler material as the base metal but get it welded anyway, it'll show as a color difference. It'll still be less noticable than a crack if you clean it up good. When you stick weld SS, it burns a lot hotter than say a 7018. Turn your heat down low and allow time for the puddle to fill the crater it makes. You can practice on a piece of carbon steel to see how the rods fill - uphill welding with stick SS will look like a set of knuckles instead of a weld. Unless you're REAL good plan on either welding it downhill or take it off the truck and lay it flat. Also, don't be suprised when it melts through. It'll probably take a bunch of grinding wheels to make it look decent, too.

One other note in case you decide to weld it in place - make sure your gas tank is as full as possible! Fill the tank neck, too - till it runs out and drips on the ground. Liquid gasoline is fairly stable - gasoline fumes are not! I'd have a fan blowing the potential fumes away from the weld site, too.

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Kraig WY

02-19-2003 08:12:10




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 Re: stainless steel in reply to dg, 02-19-2003 05:58:48  
You need stainless rods as close as you can get to the material you're welding.

I remember one time I was welding on a rifle bolt handle. Polished it up and didn't know I screwed up until I got it out of the bluing tank. Boy did I feel stuppid.



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Jim in Michigan

02-19-2003 06:47:29




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 Re: stainless steel in reply to dg, 02-19-2003 05:58:48  
You need a special rod,,I cant remember what it is exactly, but ask at a welding supply place,,,Jim



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