Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Attention Forum Users: On the 28th of December 2023 at 9:00am Central Time, we will be taking the forums down for maintenance while we prepare the new forums for your use. Please click here for more information.

Discussion Forum

Running water line

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Doug Rogers

01-22-2003 07:52:24




Report to Moderator

I need to run some water line about 300 feet. It will be used just to have water at an outdoor hydrant near a new barn. I can tap into an existing hydrant so thats no problem. The problem is that there is no straight shot from existing hydrant to new hydrant. Is there flexible water pipe that would allow me to curve around objects and barriers using a trencher to bury the line. If so, any ideas on cost comparisons to copper or galvanized. Thanks in advance.

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
TimC

01-23-2003 10:20:10




Report to Moderator
 Re: running water line in reply to Doug Rogers, 01-22-2003 07:52:24  
Use the black plastic, don't know the official name but is probably the poly stuff in former post. It is rated to over 180 psi and handles the weather very well. My dad uses a sub-soiler with a plate and roller on the back to make the ditch and lay the pipe at the same time. My brother in law's house is 300 yards off the main road and has never had a problem.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
G Taylor

01-24-2003 08:29:40




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: running water line in reply to TimC, 01-23-2003 10:20:10  
Must be a deep sub soiler or in the south. We have to go six feet deep under driveways and four feet where the snow isn't cleared to avoid freezing.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
SHeiserman

01-22-2003 18:17:58




Report to Moderator
 Re: running water line in reply to Doug Rogers, 01-22-2003 07:52:24  
We've used either black poly w/brass fittings or Aquapex. Aquapex is an expandable polyethylene. Expand the end of the pipe,slide the fitting in and you're done. No clamps and never had a leak. If it kinks, heat with heat gun until clear and kink is gone. You can also use underground brass compression fittings to hook to hydrant and the splice. Otherwise you need a special tool for expanding and therein lies a bill from a plumber-unless you know someone. Supposedly freezeproof,they claim it will expand to 150 times it's diameter. Just another option, we've used it in a lot of houses, and it is approved for underground use as well, at least in Iowa.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
markb

01-22-2003 17:46:36




Report to Moderator
 Re: running water line in reply to Doug Rogers, 01-22-2003 07:52:24  
If you're not planning on using the hydrant for drinking water, then black polyethylene pipe is the way to go. For potable water, you may want to spend the extra money for PVC. As it was said earlier, PVC can bend pretty tight.

Make sure you terminate the pipe with 5 or 10 feet of galvanized, that way you'll have something strong enough to support your hydrant.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Ben in KY

01-22-2003 21:54:15




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: running water line in reply to markb, 01-22-2003 17:46:36  
The black poly pipe is certified for potable water and approved on my permit for installation.
Also if you use the stainless steel clamps, make sure they are all stainless, quite often the screw is not and will rust out under the ground, and you have a leak. That is why I use only the brass compression types underground. The peace of mind is worth the little bit of extra money.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
markb

01-23-2003 02:07:22




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Re: running water line in reply to Ben in KY, 01-22-2003 21:54:15  
Good point about using all-stainless clamps. Most auto parts store clamps are not 100% stainless. You can test with a magnet, it shouldn't stick to the screw or anything else. Marine hardware stores should stock stainless clamps, but you still have to test to be sure.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Kent

01-22-2003 17:29:59




Report to Moderator
 Re: running water line in reply to Doug Rogers, 01-22-2003 07:52:24  
Doug, All excellent responses to your question. My choice would be 160# black coil poly pipe no smaller than 1" diameter. However, don't overlook soil conditions. If soil has any sharp stones mixed in, put a 4" sand base down first. Then lay your pipe on top of the sand. Put another layer of sand [4-6"} on top of the waterline. This will help prevent stones from rubbing a hole in the waterline caused by any vibration from the water flowing inside the piping

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
LumbrJakMan

01-22-2003 17:12:19




Report to Moderator
 Re: running water line in reply to Doug Rogers, 01-22-2003 07:52:24  
Doug . I would seriously look inot renting a " Ditchwitch" pipe puller . I pulled about 550 feet of pipe in less than 2 hours . Its a nice way to open the ground lay in the Black (sprinkler) pipe and close the ground all in one run . after you have your pipe in the ground a few passes of the tire form any auto and you can hardly even tell you were there . I also agree to go with a good diameter pipe . This pipe comes in 500 foot rools and will from around rocks or roots very well . A tip for installing taps or fittings . use a propane torch to warm up your fittings . Just wave the torch over your pipe before you insert your fittings . use good clamps and it will last for quite some time . If your near a Home Depot . they stock everything you need .Good Luck .

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Ben in KY

01-22-2003 22:03:49




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: running water line in reply to LumbrJakMan, 01-22-2003 17:12:19  
Do not buy any of the chinese faucets/valves from Home Depot, they are garbage. I bought an outside hose bib faucet from them, It started leaking within a week, took it back (still had recipt) and they gave me another one. It started leaking within a month. I threw that one away and got a good USA faucet, and had no more problems. You do get what you pay for in faucets/valves at home depot.

I am not bashing Home Depot, they have gotten a lot of my money over they years, but their chinese faucets suck er.. leak.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
paul

01-22-2003 17:33:25




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: running water line in reply to LumbrJakMan, 01-22-2003 17:12:19  
It's 8 below F right now, heading down to minus 19 tonight. There is no snow on the ground. Been a cold week.

Pipe needs to be layed 6' deep 'here'. Just how deep does that pipe puller go?

--->Paul



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
brad

01-22-2003 17:00:51




Report to Moderator
 Re: running water line in reply to Doug Rogers, 01-22-2003 07:52:24  
i would use kitech its a plastic line with an aluminum liner very strong and flexable do job in one run with no splices under ground



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Ben in KY

01-22-2003 16:58:40




Report to Moderator
 Re: running water line in reply to Doug Rogers, 01-22-2003 07:52:24  
I used the thickwall flexible poly pipe To run water to my house. Used only the brass compression type fittings. And since I have a lot of rocks in my soil I ran the 1 inch pipe inside thickwall 1.5 inch pipe for protection. If you use PVC pile use only the schedule 40 or better. I do not recommend the metal pipe. Copper for cost and galvanized for rust, it will rust. Use good stuff so you dont find yourself with a large water bill and or having to dig it up again in a few years.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
kydavid

01-22-2003 16:36:26




Report to Moderator
 Re: running water line in reply to Doug Rogers, 01-22-2003 07:52:24  
I wouldn't even consider copper or metal. Depends on if you are going to run potable water and your local code (if it requires inspection) which plastic to use. For well water or an "uninspected" or non potable system I would use black polyethylene (PE) "Orangeburg" is one brand in the thickwall. If it's potable and inspected you will probably have to use white PVC. I'd get the fittings I needed to make the angles on the PVC, rather than bend it. The PE comes in 100' and 400' coils, PVC in 20' sections. Been paying about the same for both. PE would be my choice as you won't have and joints in that short run. Look at how much water you have where you start and what you want. I've got 2 MILES (10,770') of 1" and have plenty of water at the end for stock tanks. Also got a pond (gravity flow) with 400' of 2" and it doesn't flow enough to suit me. "Going around stuff" concerns me. If it extends down to the water line and you are in a cold climate it can be a point of freezing if it's too close to the line. The PVC will not forgive freezing the PE will (a little). Email if you need more info. Be safe and put a backflow preventer at the hydrant, can tell horror stories for a week about people not using them.

David

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Michaels

01-22-2003 14:14:22




Report to Moderator
 Re: running water line in reply to Doug Rogers, 01-22-2003 07:52:24  
1" pvc can be bent to go in any ditch you can dig with a trencher. I have bent 3/4" in a 90 with about a 18" radius. Just let your glue set up for 5 or 10 minutes before you put it in the ditch.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
lowell

01-22-2003 16:31:36




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: running water line in reply to Michaels, 01-22-2003 14:14:22  
I have 1inch black plastic pipe from my well to the house thats been there since 1974 with no problems



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
lowell

01-22-2003 16:31:36




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: running water line in reply to Michaels, 01-22-2003 14:14:22  
I have 1inch black plastic pipe from my well to the house thats been there since 1974 with no problems



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Mac

01-22-2003 12:47:39




Report to Moderator
 Re: running water line in reply to Doug Rogers, 01-22-2003 07:52:24  
I wouldn't use galv. pipe. Copper will be more expensive than plastic. If you are using a trencher, can you make sweeping curves that might allow you to use regular PVC. I would use 1-1/2 pipe anyway for that distance.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Jerry A.

01-22-2003 11:14:27




Report to Moderator
 Re: running water line in reply to Doug Rogers, 01-22-2003 07:52:24  
Go to your local plumbing supply and explain what you need. They can set you up with some flexible black "plastic" pipe that can be laid around obstacles. It comes in at least 2 thicknesses. I would only use brass (and not plastic) couplings/fittings for the pipe. Also suggest doubling the hose clamps to 2 for each hose connection to a fitting (offset the screws on the pipe clamps 180 degrees). For a 300' run, spend a few more bucks and get at least a 1.25 inch dia. pipe (maybe even 1.5 inch). It will pay off with better flow rates.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Errin OH

01-22-2003 11:28:59




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: running water line in reply to Jerry A., 01-22-2003 11:14:27  
I used black plastic pipe for my new home construction last summer. It comes in muplti sizes 1/2, 3/4, 1, 1.25, etc.., but and important, it also is refered to as pounds. Ie. 60lb, 100lb, 200lb. Just for referance 100 psi, has a thinner wall than 200psi, and thicker than 60psi pipe. I used 100 and wish I used 200. The wall of the 200 is roughly 3/16", 100 is 3/32". A big differance if you accidently hit it with a shovel. As Jerry said Brass fittings, double clamped. Good "ALL" stainless steel clamps. When back filling be sure that the pipe is laid down flat in the bottom of the trench and any place its not due to design, make sure it is supported prior to back fill. This will prevent pulling on connections.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
JMS/MN

01-23-2003 22:58:02




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Re: running water line in reply to Errin OH, 01-22-2003 11:28:59  
When backfilling, hand shovel some dirt in the trench until the pipe is covered with several inches of soil. Big clumps pushed in with power equipment can collapse the line, and you find that out well after the trench is filled. The comment about having a level, solid base under the line is equally important.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy