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What I need to know before buying or building a log splitter

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Skinner

01-17-2003 20:05:12




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How many tons of force do I "really" need? I started calculating some of these 24 ton and 30 ton log splitters and noticed some errors in the way they come up with the force. My math teacher taught me to figure force, you squared the radius of the cylinder, multiply that by PI, then multiply by the pressure you have. (PI R Square x Pressure) So a 4" cylinder at 2000# would be 2x2=4 x 3.14= 12.57 x 2000 = 25,000 = 12 tons. But they clearly advertise it as a 24 ton splitter??

I'm splitting oak and mesquite logs about 3" to 6" in diameter about 18 to 24" long. So will I be satisfied with 10 to 12 actual tons?

If I build one, it will be powered from my tractor hydraulics, and the cylinder would push the log over the wedge on the end. This way, all of the split wood would fall into a pile, or trailer. I planned on a simple single wedge. I think I can build one using a new cylinder, valve, and hoses for about $250-$300 using steel and I Beam I have on hand. The store bought 3pt at TSC are about $600 and look a little light, plus they push the wedge and not the wood.

Any ideas, advice, or comments?

Thanks.

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rick(ala)

01-18-2003 18:53:30




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 Re: What I need to know before buying or building a log splitter in reply to Skinner, 01-17-2003 20:05:12  
Just finished building one with a 4"cyc. 24" stroke. But since my old n does not have remote hydraulics, I used a 2 stage pump and 11 h.p. electric start briggs & stratton. Make your push plate guides where you can adjust them. Tighten them up from time to time. I made my plate about 1 1/4" wider than the beam on both sides and welded a side plate with jack screws on the outside. Shim with plate on the under side. So far mine has split some very large wood. Live oak up to about 48". If I can help with more info e-mail me.

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John A.

01-18-2003 16:31:53




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 Re: What I need to know before buying or building a log splitter in reply to Skinner, 01-17-2003 20:05:12  
Skinner, Judgeing from the wood you are splitting you atr in Texas, Like I am. During Christmas my brother-in-law brought his splitter down to help me split up some wood for my Mom. He has the next to the largest splitter that Tractor Supply makes I think it is a 29Ton by their claims.
We split old dried out Oak logs and stump ends. He said this splitter was two years old and he was going to replace it shortly. He is in the wood business in the North Central Texas area.
If this is worn out, I will take it any day!
So I guess I just plugged Tractors Supplies log splitter. No complaints from me.
Good Luck,
John A.

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Rich ( in IL)

01-18-2003 16:12:48




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 Re: What I need to know before buying or building a log splitter in reply to Skinner, 01-17-2003 20:05:12  
Skinner, I built one this summer like what you are talking about. I bought a 4 by 24 cylinder from Rural King,H beam from the local steel supplier,valve from Northern Hydrauylics, hoses etc. all for about $300. I hook it to the hydraulics on my 190xt and it has split anything that I have tried including some nasty elm about 15 inches in diameter. It hasn't even grunted on anything yet. Rich

p.s. If you need any info send me an email.

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DumOleBob

01-18-2003 14:44:21




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 Re: What I need to know before buying or building a log splitter in reply to Skinner, 01-17-2003 20:05:12  
I've got one (an MDT from Sam's Club) rated at 20T - I think. It has a 5hp B&S engine. I split only Spruce, but up to 48" in diameter, with it. Spruce is very tough, with the limbs going way into the log. I've never not had enough power. I think rigs like mine sell for less than $700 - maybe even $600 & I know they have made a few nice improvements over the years. I'd buy another in a second.....

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David - OR

01-18-2003 06:15:53




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 Re: What I need to know before buying or building a log splitter in reply to Skinner, 01-17-2003 20:05:12  
Commercial log splitters typically use 2-stage gear pumps capable of 3000 to 5000 PSI and 11 to 22 GPM. Generally speaking, the "20 tons" is an accurate number, though there may be a bit of "round up". Take a look at the northern tool website for examples of log splitters and hydraulic pumps typically used.

If you can split the logs with one or two blows with a splitting maul, then you could probably get by with tractor hydraulic pressures. (Tough, spiral grain woods like elm are something else again.)

More problematic is the GPM specs on your hydraulic remotes. You will want the cylinder to advance for the split, then retract and be ready to reload in no more than 5 to 10 seconds in each direction. Otherwise you will get disgusted waiting for it and figure it is quicker to split by hand.

Assuming the wood splits easily enough that a 12 inch stroke will split most of the rounds, and a 4 inch cylinder, then we need 2x2x3.14*12/231 gallons per stroke.

For a 5 second cycle time, this amounts to 8 gallons per minute. While this is readily available from large modern Diesel tractors, it typically isn't from older "antique" tractors, or smaller "compact" tractors.

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Skinner

01-18-2003 17:42:25




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 Re: Re: What I need to know before buying or building a log splitter in reply to David - OR, 01-18-2003 06:15:53  
What puzzles me, is their hyd. valve has a non adjustable releif built in set to 2000#, so with only 2000# and a 4" cylinder, that is nowhere near 20 Tons. However from most post, it seems like that should do the trick for me anyway. My tractor max's out at 2000# and I planned on a 4" by 24" cylinder.

Thanks for the info.



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Dennis Benson

01-17-2003 20:13:51




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 Re: What I need to know before buying or building a log splitter in reply to Skinner, 01-17-2003 20:05:12  
Your ideas sound like they will work, but you might want to have an angle on the sliding end that sets on the I beam and points toward the wedge to form something for the edge of the log to set on. The reason is to prevent wood from getting under the sliding end. The small engine shop I worked for sold a new log splitter about 15 years ago, and it was back a short time later with a slab of wood wedged between the I beam and the sliding post, it didn't have enough power to move it at all, and neither did the largest hammer we had. I finally took a torch and burned the wood out.

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