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Craftsman Band Saw

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Paul (WI)

01-15-2003 10:02:42




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I have a craftsman horizontal metal cutting band saw that is about 25 years old and has served me well. The teeth on the nylon drive gear started jumping so I took the saw apart. I had replaced this gear once previously. I discovered that besides the nylon gear being bad, the mating drive wheel, (the wheel that the band goes around), was cracked all around the hub. It flexes slightly but would probably still work for awhile. This wheel looks like it is a cast aluminum and some oil has migrated into the crack. I tried to clean it up and tig weld it, but discovered that it is beyound my capability. The melt point is close to the sag point of the metal, plus it has residual oil in the crack and other factors. I am wondering if there is a way to use some sort of liquid or paste type metal to repair this wheel? The center hub sticks up about 1" and the wheel is rather concave. A new wheel is $150, plus $30 for the nylon one. I am on a fixed income, so I would like to find a reasonable repair. Any advise would be welcome. Thanks.

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Paul (WI)

01-17-2003 17:12:41




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 Re: Craftsman Band Saw in reply to Paul (WI), 01-15-2003 10:02:42  
Thanks for all of the suggestions for this repair. This board is great.
I did an oil cleanup as suggested and then used a SS wire brush. I then tried to tig weld it and had some success. I used the rod that I had on hand, 4043, and in some places the welding went fairly well. I only did about 1/2" at a time, or it would get too hot. It seemed to fuse fairly well, but I did have trouble in a few places to get the weld to flow into the gap in the crack. It would weld ok on both sides, but to connect it together was tough. Welding isn't my trade, it is only a hobby so I don't have the experience to overcome every challenge. Anyway, I think that what I have welded should help a lot and since the wheel is at the least wobble at this point I am ending the welding session. I will now clean up the welds and then drill a number of holes where needed, as suggested. Next, I will use some J.B. Weld on both sides. and hope for the best. I believe that I may even be able to use the old nylon gear again if I get the gear clearance correct. The original clearance was excessive and that is what caused the teeth on the nylon gear to start to wear off on the outside edge.

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John in MA

01-15-2003 21:43:27




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 Re: Craftsman Band Saw in reply to Paul (WI), 01-15-2003 10:02:42  
If the wheel is aluminum, take it to a boat or aircraft welding shop. They'll take care of it, but it might be hard to avoid warping.

Next, try some of the Atlas machine tool parts sources or discussion groups on the web. Atlas made these saws.

Finally, you can get a new import horizonal band saw for about $140 if you shop around. One of the only decent Chinese tools made. Very popular.



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Don LC

01-17-2003 07:08:40




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 Re: Re: Craftsman Band Saw in reply to John in MA, 01-15-2003 21:43:27  
Fix the saw you have.....If Atlas made your saw ,try to get the parts there....I would rather have your old saw .....than any $200 saw you might buy..... ..Another thing you might try,you have nothing to lose....the best thing I have found to wash oil off parts is "engine starter fluld" I buy it buy the case..... Wash this gear with starter fluid..... I would grind a "V" in the crack, but it would only fill up your tool..... I don't know the size of the gear.....but after cleaning,I would drill 1/4 or3/8" holes in the crack about 1"--1/2 way through all the way around the gear..lay it flat and level....fill the holes with "J.B.Weld" let it set overnight.....do the same on the other side...get these holes about 1" apart,so you can drill between the ones on other side...You could drill and tap about 4 holes the next day and use JB Weld as a thread locker..... Hows that for a crazy idea.....

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T_Bone

01-15-2003 20:08:13




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 Re: Craftsman Band Saw in reply to Paul (WI), 01-15-2003 10:02:42  
Hi paul,

You'll want to clamp down the wheel (to keep the warp out) then use your Oxy/Acet torch to burn out the oil before you weld it, then clean to "white metal" with a new SS wire brush, if it can be welded. Depends on if it's a true cast aluminium or high in magnesium content. You will also want to use Borax mixed with alcohol to a paste as a flux. Al takes alot of heat so take your time using a low flame as when the weld puddle is ready for filler rod it's hard to tell. The weld puddle skin will start to wrinkle when it's close to adding filler.

Don't let your filler rod out from under the torch flame heat zone or it will oxidize and will need recleaned before it can be added.


This is providing your not looking surface stress "skin" fractures that will not hurt a thing. Most all AL casting has these fractures. These rarely go more than a 1/64" deep.

T_Bone

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T_Bone

01-17-2003 06:06:35




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 Re: Re: Craftsman Band Saw in reply to T_Bone, 01-15-2003 20:08:13  
What happens when you weld "dirty" metal with oil on it, is that the oil froms carbon when heated and will mix with the molten puddle causing the weld to crack when it cools and is called carbon imbrittlement. This can and will happen on any type of metal.

With Stick or Mig you can entrap the oil pockets with weld metal and as the weld cools it froms pressure from the oil expanding thus causing the cracks. You will notice that the weld puddle will wonder and not be uniform, swril funny, pop or explode.

With Tig, oil will usually bubble with-in the weld puddle making it very difficult to control the weld puddle. You will usually have to stop to clean the weld before continuing.

Alcohol can be used on thin metals to clean the oils. If you take a piece of scrap metal and spread some oil on it then wipe it off you will see what I'm taking about. If you use a torch to clean the oil off mild steel you can watch the oil burn off.

T_Bone

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Ben in KY

01-15-2003 15:22:16




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 Re: Craftsman Band Saw in reply to Paul (WI), 01-15-2003 10:02:42  
You could try to wash the oil out with some kind of solvent or something, then blow out the crack with compressed air, and them use a devcon type of epoxy on it and sand it smooth, its worth a try.



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Slowpoke

01-16-2003 11:37:07




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 Re: Re: Craftsman Band Saw in reply to Ben in KY, 01-15-2003 15:22:16  
Try washing it out with dish soap & hot water in the sink. That should get rid of the oil. I see that Harbor Freight has gone to a non-adjustable blade guide system on the saws. Just one cast piece with the guide rollers. If it gets warped or something, your out of luck.



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