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Mornin' T_Bone, Snow on the ground here with bright blue skies. You still remember what that looks like? Incra has been pushing router accessories for many years. I've never seen much use for them. Using the extension on the tablesaw for a router table is an old idea. Mine was set up when I first bought my Biesemeyer 20 yrs ago. It's been used professionally and bounced around a lot but still works as well as when I bought it. Readjustment has been needed maybe twice in that time. The only mistake I made was not getting a left extension to give me a little more ripping on the left side of the blade. I didn't know it was available. Not a small point but not enough for me to spring for a new rail. One factor that doesn't look possible with the Incra and reason enough for me not to buy one. I do have to rip on the left side occasionally. Incra says you can return to any position in less than 5 sec with zero error. That's a long time for a setup (Biesemeyer is more like 2 sec) and no problem for any decent fence. As you know, with woodworking we usually deal in fractions of an inch. 1/32" (.03125")is no guess with a Biesemeyer. 1/64" (.015625") is less certain but with wood it makes no difference. It's gonna move more than that with humidity changes, even in Arizona. By that point you also get into blade discrepancies. Freud, by the way, makes a specialty rip blade with a thicker blank and fewer teeth that is far the best I've found for hardwoods, especially with difficult grain. I don't like the looks of the Incra adjustment mechanism. The Biesemeyer only locks on the front rail and the locking mechanism is self-cleaning, no chip problems. It's also steel, not extruded aluminum. Don't forget KISS. Without using one I can't give you a real evaluation. Why the salesman would recommend it I don't know, but there are lots of possibilities. IIRC FineWoodworking deemed the Excalibur the best, with very little performance differences in the group. I've never used one of them either as I have no problem whatsoever with my Biesemeyer. One thing you didn't mention was what he was going to cut. Sheetgoods really are different and only shop size should determine the fence length. My Biesemeyer had thousands of sheets pushed against it in Denver and I often wished for a longer rip capacity. Now I'm strictly hardwood lumber, often straining the capacity of my Unisaw with thick stock. In the end, take a good look at the adjustment with regard to chip clogging, ripping on the left side of the blade, sturdiness, and if can you conveniently attach auxiliary fence guards. Then there's not much chance of going wrong whichever way you go. Good luck and don't forget to take the necessary time to ready the saw for the fence. Some grinding is usually necessary.
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