Tinning an old building

Anyhow, I need to totally rebuild one sidewall, which works out fine since I want to put in a large door there anyhow so only need to do 2/3.

It will need a new roof, the wood shingles were past useful years ago. A couple of rafters might need to be shored up, but not too bad yet.

So, if I lay 2x4s across the roof & put a tin roof on, how far apart should the 2x4s be? What do you use to hold the 2x4s down to the old roof, since they are more likely to lift up than the new screws in the tin?

And, can you just side tin over the old wooden siding?

Any tips or tricks to make this work out easier?

I'm figuring on screws to hold the tin down, and am considering putting the sidewall tin on horizontally. Building is about 22x40. Pretty good concrete floor & foundation, nice sidewall height.

--->Paul

Sounds like no one here ever does this, maybe just common here in southern MN?

Don't plan on livestock or heat in it but plans often change, fairly level old wooden siding on it should be easy to put tin over the sides.

Thanks all!

--->Paul

Have you considered just nailing 1/2" plywood or OSB over your present roof deck (after skinning off the old shingles with a flat shovel) and then screwing the new metal to the new solid deck? I have seen several buildings that have been reroofed this way and they seem to be holding up fine. I would put a layer of tarpaper between the wood and metal, just in case of a leak.

If your building has survived the snowfall long enough to wear out a wood shingle roof, it is probably pleanty strong enough for any metal roof you put on it. Remember that sometimes snow will slide off a metal roof, if it is steep enough. A door that opens out in an area where snow might slide off from the roof may well become blocked. A real hassle when you want to drive something out. Shovel time! So I would suggest making your vehicle door on a gable end.

It is a good idea to fix all the structural problems before you start roofing. The first piece of metal is the most important. If it is not placed just right, the rest of the pieces will be much harder to line up and get square. Use lots of screws. They are cheap insurance and much easier to do when you are doing the initial installation, rather than up on a ladder in a thunderstorm with the cordless drill in one hand and a deathgrip on the ladder rung with the other.

I have done metal on walls both vertically and horizontally. I think the horizontal way is easiest, but it is a real pain to make a lot of small cuts in the top piece to fit around rafters.

It sounds like you have a real worth-while project, especially considering the concrete floor. Let us know how it comes out.

I used 2x4 on my storage shed roof. Lasted 15yrs til this past year and the wind took off a half section at a time. Here in Arizona the heat drys the wood out something terrible and the nails just pulled thru the 2x4's and the wood split. I used 3-1/2" deck screws with 24ga SM straps for joist straping, when the first half blew off. When the second half let go I went with metal 2x4's x 20ga (tracks not studs) used as rafters again with deck screws for the framing. Much stronger than wood and a wood 2x4x8ft is $2.45 and a 2x4x10ftx20ga track is $1.84 here on 24" centers. This should stop my dry wood problem. I normaly use a 1x4 along the eve and ridge edge screwed every high rib, but this time I used a metal box frame again with screwed every high rib.

The screws with the rubber or neophrene washers are the best. This keeps the SM screws from pulling thru the sheet when the wind blows. There expensive about $.30eh. I have used 3/16" flat washer with a hex head #10 SM screws with good results. I use a #12--1/4" flat washer on every joist seam. I screw every high rib top and bottom along the eve and ridge, joints every foot from the eve to ridge, and every three ribs the width of the building on perlins set at on 2ft centers. #7 or #8 x 1/2" hex SM screws work well for joining the metal frame.
The pointed SM self drilling screws are best in wood and if you use the drill head (Tek) screws (best in metal) be easy as they will strip out in wood easy.

If your going wood, predrill the #10 and #12 holes or it'll split the wood and deck screws if used. Try a couple test holes for pilot diameter but 5/32" works well.

Upto a #7= 1/4" hex driver All are magnet incerts
#8 & #10 = 5/16" hex driver
#12 on to ?= 3/8" hex driver
On a 24ftx24ft building you will 2-5/16" and 2-3/8" hex drivers. I like 1/2" light duty Milwaukee drill motors on the screws, cordless on the pilot holes/screws.

I like the 26ga Delta standing rib the best as the rib design is stronger. The 26ga corrigated roofing is weaker but can be used but you will need to lay down 1/2" plywood to walk on it and is the cheapest. Your in ice country so be really careful as SM and ice is very slick. If you don't want the roof to sweat inside use a visqueen vapor barrier under the SM roofing. Your wasting your money/time with 28ga and 30ga roofing.

So if I typed this correct you should read this as a free span of 2ft square on centers. We don't get snow here tho so consider your snow load.

T_Bone

As for the siding that's all I use anymore. Been buying good heavy siding metal for $20 a square in assorted colors and lengths, paint it all black. Even roofing with it. GOt 3 old tobacco barns that I put it on to make hay barns and then built a new barn out of it. Just put it right over the old boxing.