Building a Utility Trailer

I've never built a trailer before. I've got a Lincoln AC/DC arc welder, but no metal cutting tools to speak of, except a sawzall. I do have spraying equipment to paint it. I was just wondering if anyone had used the plans and how straight forward they were.

Thanks,

Matt in NY

Matt in NY

Building a trailer is a great project but don't expect to save much money doing it. I built a heavy duty trailer last year to haul my tractor on. It is a better trailer than I can buy anywhere but even with salvage axles I spent about what I would have for an adequate ready made.

A chop saw will cost you around $200. Useful if you are going to be doing a lot of metal fabrication. I have had good luck using $4 abrasive metal cutting blades in a circular saw. To get straight cuts I clamp angle iron guides to the work piece.

Post a picture.

Steve

You can make them cheaply if you shop wisely. Northern is TOO expensive. If you shop around at your local farm supply places you will find things like fenders at about half the price. Here in NC I go to AGRI-Supply. Example- fender for 14/15" wheel=$6.50, #3500 coupler=$8, light set=$15.

I don't recommend anybody use automotive axles except on very light duty trailers. I made the mistake of using an axle off a dodge minivan one time. You'd have thought that was heavy enough but there was just too much travel in those springs. Find a mobile home axle, use the axle tube and springs. They are rated to #5000. Cut and weld your own spindles on.

Tires- You can use automotive tires if they are rated high enough but that is usually the problem. I recommend you talk to a couple of used tire shops. This is the thing, these guys can order any new tire that you can buy, trailer type or otherwise, but they normally won't mark them up as high. They run there business out of a small shop, have a small overhead and are very pleased to do business, any business. So talk to them and you will be amazed how much you can save. Get your rims from the junkyard. Be careful the bolt pattern matches up (bring the hub with you).

Metal for the frame. I get rectangular square tubing (2") for about $32 for twenty feet. Better yet if you check your local metal salvage yard you'll probably find that they sort out the good stuff and will sell it to you cheap. In Dec I bought enough channel iron from them to build two 4x8's, two 5x10's, one 5x12 and a tow dolly. I paid $100 for all that. Of coarse that was exceptional but it's worth the look.

The most critical part of your trailer building is placement of the axle. Do it last because there is a formula for figuring axle placement and you need to find the center of gravity first. Regardless of what your plans say, VERIFY that this is the right place to put your axle. This is a safety consideration.

Here is the formula. You should have 10-14% of the total wieght on the hitch with the remaining 86-90% on the axle. So...
1)Measure the distance from the center of the hitch to the center of gravity.
2)divide by percent you want on the axle.
3)Result is the distance from the center of the hitch to the center of the axle. Good luck and if you have any questions just email me.

Could you provide more information or a place to find more information about welding spindles on to axles?

Is it possible to make your own axle (for light duty use) from 2x2 hollow steel?

Thanks!

BCH

Thanks Alan

1) After completely building the trailer, except for mounting the axles, I scribe chalk lines down both sides of the trailer. You should number them as a measurement from the center of the hitch.

2) At this point your trailer is probably on jack stands. I get a friend, we each put a large floor jack under oppisites sides of the frame, directly across from each other using the chalk marks. We gently lift,drop, move and through trial and error find the center of gravity. This usually only takes a couple of minutes.

3) Take the measurement from the center of the hitch to the Center of Gravity and divide by the desired percentage of load on the axles. The result is where the center of the running gear goes. In your case that would be the center pivot point on the equalizer bar.

One last tip. Estimate what your heaviest load would be including trailer weight. Multiply that by .2 and ask yourself if your vehicle can handle that hitch weight. If the answer is yes than go with a 20% hitch weight. My reasoning is this; most of the time when you see a fishtailing trailer it is because of insufficient hitch weight. That is the cause 99% of the time. To guard against this set yourself up for success right from the start.

Good luck and email me if I can help with anything.