Gas powered, back up, generators for home use

I put it on wheels. I have a large front porch, so I wired a plug on the front porch that goes to a breaker panel in the house with 2 15 amp breakers. I run 2 - 115v circuits. I made a transfer panel with spdt switches and wired four key circuits into it. The furnace, the sump pump, the kitchen, and the family room.

The generator will safely power the pump, furnace and refrigerator and still have room for a light and the TV.

When the failure hits, I put the generator on the font porch where it is covered, but still outside, plug in the cord from the generator to my outlet, let it warm up and transfer the circuits. I always turn on one light from the main panel so I know when power returns.

Has served me well, running for about 20 hours at the longest, and I only have about $650 invested. As far as a transfer panel, if you don't want to make one, Northern Hydraulics has em for under $300.

JerryU

PS if you get one, keep it full of gas with Sta Bil in it.

Mike

: After several bouts of power failures lasting over a day, and a failure of my battery backup sump pump, I bought a generator. Figuring that I wouldn't use it a lot, I went lowest cost. I bought a 5000 Watt Campell Hausfeld extended run. The extended run is necessary if you want to sleep all night.

: I put it on wheels. I have a large front porch, so I wired a plug on the front porch that goes to a breaker panel in the house with 2 15 amp breakers. I run 2 - 115v circuits. I made a transfer panel with spdt switches and wired four key circuits into it. The furnace, the sump pump, the kitchen, and the family room.

: The generator will safely power the pump, furnace and refrigerator and still have room for a light and the TV.

: When the failure hits, I put the generator on the font porch where it is covered, but still outside, plug in the cord from the generator to my outlet, let it warm up and transfer the circuits. I always turn on one light from the main panel so I know when power returns.

: Has served me well, running for about 20 hours at the longest, and I only have about $650 invested. As far as a transfer panel, if you don't want to make one, Northern Hydraulics has em for under $300.

: JerryU

: PS if you get one, keep it full of gas with Sta Bil in it.

: Mike Funny you should ask about the car muffler. I put one on mine, really didn't quiet it down, but I used muffler hangers with the rubber isolators. After about 5 hours of running, the rubber melted from the heat and the vibration broke the muffler off. So at about midnight, my son and I reinstalled the stock (and very loud) muffler. But the noise is better than no heat or lights.

JerryU

: : Mike
: Funny you should ask about the car muffler. I put one on mine, really didn't quiet it down, but I used muffler hangers with the rubber isolators. After about 5 hours of running, the rubber melted from the heat and the vibration broke the muffler off. So at about midnight, my son and I reinstalled the stock (and very loud) muffler. But the noise is better than no heat or lights.

: JerryU

Genators are like electric motors, some are made to run at 3600 rpm and some are made to run at 1800. The faster they turn the noiser there engines are ( and cheaper ).
I like to use a belt driven one for two reasons.
1. I run my genator with my "AC" 917 garden tractor, which is always ready to run. If it had it's own engine, and was sitting in the corner of the garage,(for 5 years) would it start?
2. Because the engine on my tractor is a 17 hp and the 4000 watt genator only needs an 8 hp min. I can belt it so the engine does not have to run full speed, there for it runs quiter. Low speed, direct drive, engine driven generators are avaible, but cost much more.

You must be vary carefull when hooking up a genator to run a home, it can back feed the line and ELECTROCUTE the linemen who are working to restore the power.
It is best to hire a licensed electrician to install a transfer switch. I hope this helps. Dusty

: : : Mike
: : Funny you should ask about the car muffler. I put one on mine, really didn't quiet it down, but I used muffler hangers with the rubber isolators. After about 5 hours of running, the rubber melted from the heat and the vibration broke the muffler off. So at about midnight, my son and I reinstalled the stock (and very loud) muffler. But the noise is better than no heat or lights.

: : JerryU

: Genators are like electric motors, some are made to run at 3600 rpm and some are made to run at 1800. The faster they turn the noiser there engines are ( and cheaper ).
: I like to use a belt driven one for two reasons.
: 1. I run my genator with my "AC" 917 garden tractor, which is always ready to run. If it had it's own engine, and was sitting in the corner of the garage,(for 5 years) would it start?
: 2. Because the engine on my tractor is a 17 hp and the 4000 watt genator only needs an 8 hp min. I can belt it so the engine does not have to run full speed, there for it runs quiter.
: Low speed, direct drive, engine driven generators are avaible, but cost much more.

: You must be vary carefull when hooking up a genator to run a home, it can back feed the line and ELECTROCUTE the linemen who are working to restore the power.
: It is best to hire a licensed electrician to install a transfer switch.
: I hope this helps.
: Dusty

From Murray:

A standard issue walker muffler is more than adequate to quiet most generators. A hospital quiet M-51 grade is quite expensive about 3 times what is paid for a standard muffler.

for extended use stay away from the 3600 rpm machines. These machines are notorious for breaking down after more than 8 hours of use, but they are significantly cheaper.

For standby try an inexpensive diesel such as Deutshe, Izuzu etc. The diesel keeps better than Gasoline. or use a propane storage tank with gas powered unit.

PowerPac Mfg has come out with a small unit that is used to power homes and small businesses they are marketed in conjunction with the Gas Company of Southern California, and other utilities around the country. The units are designed to be PRIME as well as standby, that is let the utility be the back up. The kW cost of these units averages 2.5 to 4 cents a kW significantly cheaper than most power companies will charge you.

Make sure you have a reverse relay in place or a circuit breaker to make sure you do not electrocute your electric linesman. Some utilities make sure that you use an Induction generator if you wish to stay hooked up to the utility for immediate backup. (These units only run if they receive excitation from the grid, so if your grid goes down so does your induction generator.) So a syncronous generator with a circuit breaker (transfer switch) taking your home off-line from the grid is recommended to assure continued operation in a storm.

Murray

• PowerPac Mfg Company

: From Murray:

: A standard issue walker muffler is more than adequate to quiet most generators. A hospital quiet M-51 grade is quite expensive about 3 times what is paid for a standard muffler.

Thanks for all of the good info. I'm a little confused about the brand of muller you are taking about? Where would I find an M-51 grade muffler to fit my 10hp Briggs&Stratton engine?

TIA.

Mike

• Generators - Powerpac

Have you done any welding (even as a hobby)?
If so, you might go the same route I took which is to get a welding machine that can run the house appliances and such in addition to the welding. You want a machine that is rated for "Stand By Power" (Just means it'll withstand the constant use of running your stuff). I have the Lincoln Weldanpower 250 Diesel and am quite happy with it (there are other good machines out there, such as Miller to name one). Enjoy...