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Welding

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Buck

09-23-2002 18:35:39




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Would you use 6011 or 6013 on sheetmetal 3/32?




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cornfused

09-29-2002 18:00:20




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 Re: welding in reply to Buck, 09-23-2002 18:35:39  
Here is a real helpful site for your welding!



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Bus Driver

09-24-2002 16:40:44




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 Re: welding in reply to Buck, 09-23-2002 18:35:39  
I am sure that the others posting have more experience welding than I do and perhaps more than does Buck. Which brings me to my point. If the metal is clean and the welder is not really experienced, my suggestion is to use the 6013 electrode on this lighter gage sheet. Less likely to burn through. If you have sufficient material, test on a scrap piece.



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Buck

09-24-2002 19:21:14




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 Re: Re: welding in reply to Bus Driver, 09-24-2002 16:40:44  
I am not sure what I am doing wrong. I don't get as smooth of bead with the 6013x3/32. I have tried 60 - 90 amp. Thanks for the help.



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wrenchman

09-23-2002 20:25:47




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 Re: welding in reply to Buck, 09-23-2002 18:35:39  
personally,i would use 3/32"6011s bcause they are a fast freeze rod...could use either actually...with the 6011s you would just stack puddles to prevent burn through & use a bit more lead angle for the same reason...you probably will get lots more opinions on this:^)...



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BUCK

09-24-2002 19:00:40




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 Re: Re: welding in reply to wrenchman, 09-23-2002 20:25:47  
You lost me on the fast freeze. The rims are rusty and so far I have had the best luck with 6011 3/32 65amp I tried the 6013 0n some of the thin spots but i had to knock the rust off first . Thanks for the help



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wrenchman

09-26-2002 21:34:28




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 Re: Re: Re: welding in reply to BUCK, 09-24-2002 19:00:40  
fast freeze means the weld puddle solidifies quicker than other rod types...makes it easier to weld thin metal without burning through...T-Bone gives a good explanation of the back step method...results look like stacked(overlapped)weld puddles...you can also use a piece of copper sheet(bout 1/16"to 1/8" thick)to back up the really thin sections while you are welding on em...helps prevent burnthrough...

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Fred OH

09-24-2002 06:12:06




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 Re: Re: welding in reply to wrenchman, 09-23-2002 20:25:47  
What is 6013 for? Ans: Rapid down hand welding of sheetmetal. Try both on scrap metal and make your decision from there. 6011 is for dirty, greasy, grimy, rusty metal where you want maximum penetration. If you only got a AC machine...make sure your 6011 is dry or it'll give you fits cause it'll stick and make you bite a hole in your lip! L8R....Fred OH



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Buck

09-24-2002 19:09:37




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 Re: Re: Re: welding in reply to Fred OH, 09-24-2002 06:12:06  
I have AC--DC 250 century. But I dont know why or when to use the DC.I thought I had to use different rod for DC . Thanks for the help.



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Fred OH

10-01-2002 08:46:35




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: welding in reply to Buck, 09-24-2002 19:09:37  
Buck...the DC is used for welding thin sections of metal as it is smoother to use at low currents...and you have better control over the arc. I noticed that you mentioned you are welding patches on rims. They rust thin and you will probably have burn through with either rod...unless you use a back up strip like someone else suggested. I find it best to weld rim patches with a torch, although a mig is good for thin stuff too. With a torch, the patch can be tacked on the back corners and while it is hot...can be tapped down to fit flat against the parent metal as you go...just use a small ball pein hammer and heat and you can form it around contours easily. Use a pair of c-clamp vice grips to hold patch till it's tacked in place...use a patch somewhat bigger than the rust spot...to get away from the thin rusty metal. The welding rod to use is high tensile steel torch rod...available at welding supply houses...copper coated to keep rust from forming on it. If you can braze with a torch...you can practice a little and weld steel...it doesn't flow on like braze, it has to be puddled...melted to the patch and the rim. Be sure and grind off any sows titties on the inside so that it's real smooth...so it won't cut the tube. L8R....Fred OH

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Buck

10-01-2002 21:34:32




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: welding in reply to Fred OH, 10-01-2002 08:46:35  
Thank you Fred . I used reverse polarity DC 6011 3/32 and 1/8 it really worked out well. I used the torch with steel rod to repair pin holes and tack in place . I cut the patch to exact fit and put 1/4 in. bolts and flat washers in the 4 corners to hold it in place. These were cutoff rims and I had to reweld all the spokes. Thanks again.



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T_Bone

09-23-2002 21:00:51




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 Re: Re: welding in reply to wrenchman, 09-23-2002 20:25:47  
Hi Buck, I'll go along with wrenchman!

Either one if base metal is preped well but 6011 would be the best choice with using the back step method (fast freeze, with lead angle 45*). If DC is available then 6010 DCEN would also be a great choice.

T_Bone



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Buck

09-24-2002 19:12:06




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 Re: Re: Re: welding in reply to T_Bone, 09-23-2002 21:00:51  
What is the back step method. Thanks for the help.



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T_Bone

09-24-2002 20:02:53




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: welding in reply to Buck, 09-24-2002 19:12:06  
Hi Buck,

The back step is where you deposit a 3/4 full weld puddle, drag back 1-1/2 rod diameters then back in 1/2 of the first weld puddle thus crating an over lapping weld. What this does it allows the 1st weld puddle to solidifiy before more molten metal is applied. Very thin gauge (24ga) can be welded with this method. 6011 works very well with the back step method and 6010 works well but harder to control than 6011. 6010 used with straight polarity(DCEN) allows for good improvement with the back step method.

6013 is more of a continous applied electrode and doesn't work well with welding lite gauge SM. 6013 requires more base metal preheat thus warpage becomes a problem and very easy to entrap slag pockets.

Tacking centers should be about 25 times the base metal thickness to control warpage.

T_Bone

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