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Crane'n'Hoist

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Chuck Herrick

04-05-2000 14:34:21




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I'm about to pour a floor in my 20' X 80' pole barn. 2/3 will be 5" concrete slab with beams every 10' and 1/3 will be fine-grained caliche.

I'm working up to a crane'n'hoist for the shop. After pricing a pedestal, floor-standing jib crane with manual push-pull trolley and manual chain hoist (too expensive!! $4K with the foundation), I've decided to go with a custom-made A-frame, with an I-beam cross bar, a manual push-pull trolley and a 220 V electric chain hoist.

I need a 2-ton capacity (for that Cat D7 engine!-).

Do you have any design details you'd like to share? I'm figuring on a 15' span (the I-beam) and about an 8' stance (the A's), with no wheels under the legs, but with square steel plate feet. I can always slide a wheel assembly under each foot of each A.

Would you design the Crane to be disassembled or as one piece?

Any other shop suggestions before I pour that concrete slab?

For example, I'm thinking of setting 3 or 4 big-ass eye-rings every 4' - 5' into the floor, the kind that can be "folded down" and recessed into the floor, so I'll have points to hook chains and cables when I need a pull-point.

Would you pour the floor very slightly concave (sloping to the center), with or without drains?

Would you pour a foundation for a big-ass vise?

What else?

Figure if you could start all over again and design the ultimate modestly-priced shop, what would trip your trigger?

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Mark Thompson

04-09-2000 11:03:58




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 Re: Crane'n'Hoist - let's chat! in reply to Chuck Herrick, 04-05-2000 14:34:21  
Chuck,A friend added on to his frame and body shop a while back and poured sections of train rail upside down flush in the floor with strips of styrofoam board under the flanges.Afterwards he took a torch and melted the foam board out,leaving a perfect place to attach pull hooks.It was a cheap way to do it too.As far as the A frame I would figure a 4 to 1 safety factor on the structural components,most hoists will already have a safety factor built in.Hope this helps,Mark

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kimk

04-07-2000 19:45:45




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 Re: Crane'n'Hoist - let's chat! in reply to Chuck Herrick, 04-05-2000 14:34:21  
Just my opinion-- If you are gonna be dealing with these kind of forces either ENGINEER your design (yup math-- loads, material specs, modulus of elasticity etc.) or have it done by someone who knows how. I.e. a real structural engineer. failing that pop for a store bought unit that has been designed and built right. It is easy to overbuild a hoist to pull the engine out of an old Fiat, but you are messin with major stuff. the price for gettin it wrong would just be too high for me thanx.

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Ninh Hoa

04-06-2000 08:07:43




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 Re: Crane'n'Hoist - let's chat! in reply to Chuck Herrick, 04-05-2000 14:34:21  
Chuck, I normally don't get involved with this type of discussion, but Isee red flags looming. First, I am making no technical recommendation regarding your choice, and I am not affiliated in any way with the vendot I'm mentioning. That said, I'm looking at a catalog from Global. Their website is 'www.globalindustrial.com'. They show an adjustable gantry crane, 2 ton, for $1185. It has wheels.

If nothing else, get the catalog and use the picture for a guide. However, eventhough $1200 might be hard to swallow, you gain the advantage of getting an engineered product. If you equate the cost of buying with the cost of recuperating from an accident caused from a home-made failure, it's a pretty easy decision.

I design, weld, rig and monkey on my own all that I can. But I never get under any lifting device that I make. I've never had a failure, but I can't predict when I will either.

Good luck.

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jim

04-05-2000 23:32:31




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 Re: Crane'n'Hoist - let's chat! in reply to Chuck Herrick, 04-05-2000 14:34:21  
What works real good is too put train rail set into concrete. You want it to be just flush with surface( this is real important, cause creepers, jacks and blocking will get hung up). We generally put in two on each side ( for diffent gauge dozers) This will help alot if you are gonna put those d-7's in there, after a while pads chew up all that expensive concrete. What i'm thinking about doing next time is maybe using track rail ( hell it's free right)

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jim

04-07-2000 23:19:32




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 Re: Re: Crane'n'Hoist - let's chat! in reply to jim, 04-05-2000 23:32:31  
oh yeah, also i wouldn't advise drains it too easy to have oil get in, and then you have big problems. you won't regret having well mounted vise as long as your absolutely sure thats where you want it for a long time. as far as 'a' frame goes i have used many owner built ones with confidence, and some where even certified by crane inspectors and given weight rating, however they where built by qualified welders. 15ft. is a pretty big span for one of these units. there is more to consider than just load rating of beam. one has to keep in mind that loads sometimes jerk and that is where safety factors come into play. anyway good luck.

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Kim Hartshorn

04-06-2000 05:50:10




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 Re: Re: Crane'n'Hoist - let's chat! in reply to jim, 04-05-2000 23:32:31  
The entertainment industry uses inverted chain motors available from CM as well as other manufacturers. The reason for this is that it is fairly easy to rig the chain point to any steel that will support the lift. The motor then climbs the chain with the load attatched to the motor.

Depending on how you are intending to use your hoist and the construction of your shop this might be a lower clost way to go. What you lose is a sliding trolley hoist....what you gain is a big portable hoist that can be rigged to any overhead point of SUITABLE strength. So you might want to do some lookups in ibeam indexes and such. CM makes a 1/2 ton and 1 ton motor that are liftable by one man. The 1 ton can be rigged double purchase with a block hook to give it a 2 ton lift.

Good Luck

Kim Hartshorn

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