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Nailing rough cut hardwood

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scott upny

07-25-2002 13:35:10




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any ideas on what nails work best for nailing 1" and 2" thick hardwood planks without splitting the board. I want to avoid pre-drilling the holes. thanks guys




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kb

07-29-2002 07:10:12




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 Re: nailing rough cut hardwood in reply to scott upny, 07-25-2002 13:35:10  
A lot depends on the application. I've used a lot of roughsawn hardwood, and even pine, on different projects. Most splitting comes when you are nailing close to the end of the boards, so nail back as far from the edge as possible. This applies to pressure treated kiln dried lumber as well. If you are working on the very end of a board then by all means predrill and save yourself some problems later.

If it isn't in the end of the board then it is not as likely to split. In those areas you can usually just nail it down, or if it is hard to nail then use soap, wax, spit, etc on your nails. Keep in mind these lubricants aren't so much to stop splitting as they are to make it easier to drive the nail.

As a general rule with roughcut hardwoods the drier seasoned boards are less likely to develop additional splits (some split on their own as they dry), but at the same time those drier seasoned boards are much harder to drive a nail in.

In regards to nails, I always try to use a ring shanked pole barn nail (#20 and #30 depending on the application) for 2" stock, and a spiral nail (#16 or #10 depending on application) for 1" stock. These types of nails are more apt to keep the lumber in place as it dries. No other nail holds like the ring shanked pole barn nails, they are very tough.

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Glenshoe

07-25-2002 19:47:19




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 Re: nailing rough cut hardwood in reply to scott upny, 07-25-2002 13:35:10  
Ok. Three things my grandfather (a carpenter) taught me. When driving nails into hardwood like seasoned oak without predrilling: 1) use beeswax - he kept a cake of it in his nail bins and dipped/twisted the tip of each nail in it - no mess - no fuss. 2) blunt the tip of the nail by lightly tapping the nail into a hard surface like a piece of iron/steel - the blunt tip tears the wood fibers and helps prevent splitting. 3) believe it or not, the tips of nails are cut with an elongated surface so that two opposing edges are slightly longer than the other two opposing edges - place the longer axis ACROSS the grain and it cuts better thus helping prevent splitting. I've used all three of these techniques with varying degrees of success - try them with the old guys' compliments. Glenn

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paul

07-25-2002 16:53:22




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 Re: nailing rough cut hardwood in reply to scott upny, 07-25-2002 13:35:10  
Well, soap, wax, or oil will help a lot. But you probably have 2 choices:

Predrill, or, watch them split.

--->Paul



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hay

07-25-2002 15:20:36




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 Re: nailing rough cut hardwood in reply to scott upny, 07-25-2002 13:35:10  
you might try dipping each nail into liquid dish soap first. it seems to make the nail go in easier with less splitting of the wood. maybe try light oil or something like WD-40. anything that will make the nail slick will help. it does tend to get messy. be safe!



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JohnnyB

07-25-2002 14:39:58




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 Re: nailing rough cut hardwood in reply to scott upny, 07-25-2002 13:35:10  
I use 2 1/4" screw shank pallet nails blunt tip,I have a Stanley Bostitch nail gun. That'll work on the 1", but on the 2" you might have to predrill and screw. I doubt you'll find a gun capable of driving a 3 1/2" nail into hardwood, but you might get lucky.



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Kevin

07-25-2002 15:02:40




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 Re: Re: nailing rough cut hardwood in reply to JohnnyB, 07-25-2002 14:39:58  
Blunt tip is the way to go, although in hardwood I would recommend predrilling the holes. A small diameter hole drills quickly and the wood never splits badly when predrilled. I know its no fun, but I survived predrilling 3000 holes on my deck job. (actually, I Tom Sawyered the wife into doing about 800 of them for the planking, she thought it looked "easy",Lol!)



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