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Arc welder

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carl

07-12-2002 00:05:46

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i have been told i can do tig welding with my arc welder can anyone tell me how this is done and what will be needed

thanks

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07-13-2002 10:19:48

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Re: arc welder in reply to carl, 07-12-2002 00:05:46

You can use an ac transforner-type machine IF it has enough capacity for the work (a 225 amp. will work for light material) AND you add a 'high-frequency unit' to the output side of the welder. The one I used most was an "All States" (NOT Allstate) brand but Lincoln has them and probably Miller, Hobart, etc. do also. Since these run at very high frequency (around 400Mhz) it is, for all practical purposes, direct current. A side benefit is that when stick welding with low-hydrogen (and other dc-best rods) the high freq. unit will greatly enhance arc stability, starting and weld quality.

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Fred OH

07-12-2002 08:41:56

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Re: arc welder in reply to carl, 07-12-2002 00:05:46

Yes, you can use your welder to weld aluminum only, it is welded with AC using the accessories that Dan described only with pure tungsten rod instead of 2% thoriated. Might have a problem balling the tungsten though. It is done with DC+ It'll still work if you grind it round on a pedestal grinder. The welder must have a pretty good duty cycle though as you are using it constantly and it will heat up a cheap welder beyond it's capabilities if you have the amps turned up some. Probably best if you got a heavy duty industrial type transformer/rectifier (AC-DC) machine if going this route, not just a 180 or 225 amp AC machine. L8R....Fred OH

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Dan

07-12-2002 12:54:52

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Re: Re: arc welder in reply to Fred OH, 07-12-2002 08:41:56

Sorry to state, but it isn t a good idea to try and weld aluminum with an AC buzzbox TIG. First off, besides the equipment mentioned in my previous post AC also requires a high frequency arc stablizer. What this does is keep the arc from going out during the zero volts part of an AC cycle.
Another important item that an AC buzzbox lacks is a remote current control. Aluminum is so heat sensitive , that if you do not have the ability to regulate the welding current while you are welding, you can loose total control of the weld puddle. An overheated aluminum weld is destine to fail.

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Brad

07-14-2002 13:07:45

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Re: Re: Re: arc welder in reply to Dan, 07-12-2002 12:54:52

All things considered, the AC buzzbox setup would be easier than how I learned to weld aluminum. Went through the local community college welding program, and the instructor drilled 1/2 inch holes in irrigation pipe and told us to go fill them with an oxy/acetylene torch. I thought it was a joke, but he was serious, and said it would look aweful, but would hold. He made us learn on that first since, I'm in farming country and most farmers don't have the fancy equipment to tote along for aluminum irrigation repairs. Anyway, got a few holes filled, looked bad, and the next week, he started us using the buzz box tig setup. What a difference that made, in more ways than one.

Brad

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Fred OH

07-14-2002 10:54:52

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Re: Re: Re: arc welder in reply to Dan, 07-12-2002 12:54:52

Dan, I ran a Lincoln Ideal Arc for 10 years with this setup. Although this is not the best system to run, the poster just asked if it is possible to do same. The high frequency generator takes the 60 cycle AC and puts it up to (I think if memory serves me correctly) about 20,000 cycles per second, so the zero volts thing doesn't figure in so much at this frequency. When you don't have a remote current control, you learn to live with it and compensate with shorter arcs and stopping before the end of the weld and re-adjusting current. Lincoln made a small motor assembly that you could take off the current crank from the front of the welder and install a gear on the shaft and use their reversible motor with a line taped to the torch to raise and lower current as desired. Foot controls are much handier (and quicker response)as you well know. If you looked in your welder, the high frequency stablizer is probably no more than a capacitor to fill in the voids as the field collapses to keep you away from the zero volts thing. Most generally, a setup like this is used just for simple repair work, probably what the original poster intended. I stopped in to a friend's shop a couple of years ago and he had just such a setup. A bottle of argon, a flowmeter and air cooled torch, just as simple as you can get. And he was real tickled with this which was just enough to do a small aluminum job occasionally. Although this is not the best setup, as I described earlier, it would be best to use an AC/DC machine combined with a high frequency generator with arc stabilizer, gas and water selenoids and a gear head motor assembly to control the current with. I hope the poster can get tuned in to his system with our discussion of some of the technical points of the matter. When someone came in my shop and was curious about welding aluminum, I would explain the way it worked and then click the button on the handle of the torch and make that high frequency arc in the palm of my hand and then hand it to him and say "you do it" and never once did I get a taker on it. They didn't like the looks of that 1/4" blue arc jumping over onto my hand. The secret was to keep it moving and you hardly felt it. I better state that I'm not advising that everyone run out and do this as someone would probably give me a cussing and say I didn't know what I was talking about. L8R....Fred OH

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Dan

07-12-2002 04:48:37

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Re: arc welder in reply to carl, 07-12-2002 00:05:46

Carl

You failed to mention the exact type of arc welder. If were talking a buzz box it is going to need to be an AC/DC machine. You will use the DC side of the machine with the electrode negative (DCEN) also known as straight polarity. equipment you will need includes an air cooled TIG torch, 2% thoriated tungsten electrode, bottle of 100% argon, and a argon regulator. The TIG torch needs to be the type that has an on/off valve on it for controlling your shielding gas flow. With this buzzbox set up you will be able to do non-critical welding of stainless steel and steel. With this set up you start the arc the same way you do with your stick electrode, by scratching the tungsten to initiate the arc an then maintain the arc length.

There is a lot more to it then this, but I would end up writing a book and others have already done so. So my suggestion now is to get a book to cover all the details. If you want I can post some suggested reading, I have at least 12 books in my library on the subject of TIG so you should be able to find one of them.

Also, the above information will change if your arc welder is something like a Miller Dialarc. Post what you have and I ll add more detail for you.

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