Need to make water alarm for leaky basement.

Another idea would be setting up a float switch for the alarm in the sump pit, using a simple mercury switch. Fix it so when the float is floating, the mercury makes contact. That should be able to handle most any voltage, even 110, though I would use doorbell circuit voltage myself. I have not looked for a mercury switch lately, but at least some of the silent type wall switches used a tube with a little bit of mercury to make the contacts.

To use, place an aspirin tablet in the jaws of the clothes pin and place it near the floor, at whatever level you want to detect. Moisture will disolve the aspirin tablet, allowing the wires to close the switch and sound the buzzer. The rest of the circuit is as T-bone described.

Good Luck

there are six buzzers listed in catalogue that are rated as 10mA or less. all at around 70db to 95 db.

i think X10.com has water alarms even some that will dial a phone number and tell you to get your buckets

lets have a good weekend.

I never said it absolutely wouldn't work, merely questioned the reliability of it, which I still do. As an added point, if the probes are left in the water for an extended period of time, and the water between the probes becomes ionized, electrolysis will begin and the current flow between the probes will increase. (Same reason it takes your vaporizer a long time to start producing steam) As mentioned in another reply, the mineral content of the water will make a difference in how much current flows.

I'd feel much better using some kind of float switch designed for this purpose.

Here we go again. 1) follow directions, 2) follow directions, 3) follow directions

Did I say anything about using BOLTS as probes? No
You still have not wired up the alarm as I stated so your GUESSING that it won't work and that sir is what upsets me about your post. Your condeming my design without trying it as I posted in the instructions. Had you wanted to discuss my design then my answer to you would have been much different with a totally different tone but to condem something that you have not tried is just wrong.

Your words Bob "but will probably not operate a standard interrupted coil magnetic buzzer." So you have not tried it so how do you know? Did I say anything about using a magnetic buzzer?

The wire probes are not in water execpt when water has triggered the alarm so there will be no build up of minerals nor will the probes become ionized.
As I stated from time to time the probes will need to be cleaned just about the time the battery needs replaced.

I also use SS probes for continious emerssion in water for sensor probes for control of our deep well pumps. The probes have to be cleaned every "five years" to keep all running to snuff. Well systems has been using this type of control circuit for many years with out any problems. I have been using this design for the past 20yrs and it was used for 15yrs before I got here. I think 35yrs of testing is enough to say the design works!

Now if you would like to build this alarm and would like a detailed parts list, under $10, I would be more than willing to let you eat some crow!

T_Bone

Why would I need to eat crow? I pulled a big tasty snapper out of the pond when I was getting water to test with!

The alarm should be battery powered because what if the latest storm knocks the power out.

• water alarm

By a book on basic electricity.

Next vist a Radio Shack and buy a 12v buzzer, 12v battery and whatever length of wire you need from the buzzer to the basement. Phone wire or t-stat wire works well.

Run a battery hot (plus side) lead to one side of the buzzer.

Run another wire from the other lead of the buzzer to the basement and end 1" above floor. Strip the end of wire about 1/4".

Take another wire and run 1" above floor and next too the wire you just ran. Strip the end about 1/4". These are your two sensor wires. Continue this wire back to the negitive side of the battery. The alarm circuit is now complete.

Leave alittle extra wire where you attach them to the wall as the wire ends will corroide or need to be cleaned from time to time.

How it works:
When the water raises 1", it completes the circuit by connecting the two bear end of the wires thru the water. This completes the battery circuit with the buzzer thus sounding off the alarm.

To test alarm, put any metal accross the two wire ends and the buzzer will sound. If not the battery is dead or the buzzer is bad or theres a break in the wire.

T_Bone

T_Bone

Before you condem someones design you best try it first Bubba!

And another thing, why do you post under different names? Butch or Butch(OH) or Big Daddy or whoever you are!

T_Bone

You answered your own post as to why your test failed. Following directions will help alot.

If you knew anything about basic electricity you would know that many bilge pumps use the same sensing method and is not against any code. Why?

T_Bone

I agree with you people who hide there ID on these forums have there head in a dark warm moist area on there body... wait a second T_Bone seems like a funny name for parents to give a kid.

Kinda seems like you should look in the mirror when pointing fingers about people hiding identities especially when you post as T_Bone

Just JT

Can you relate to that JT?

T_Bone

I think you misunderstood what I was trying to say. It just seems a little odd to me that when a person tries to discredit someone else by comenting about them using a Nom De Plume and then doesn't sign with there own real name.

I don't want anybody to lose any sleep over anything I say here but if other people not signing there posts with their real names bothers you. It would seem to make sense that a person who would say "Most people who hide there identity usually have nothing worth saying and do nothing other than to try to cause problems!"
would be more than willing to use their own name when signing that message. I know it can be real easy to be mean OR get offended when you are not face to face like in this forum.

I don't want to get anyones blood pressure to the boiling point just offer up some food for thought.

JT

How do you use this feature:
Use search this website on the left side column.
enter the website ISP addy found at the top of the post your reading.

example your addy (206.72.36.5)
Now enter 206 72 36 and search. No dots or last number needed but add the spaces between numbers. It will bring up all the posts that this ISP addy has posted along with other posts that contain one or more serries of the search numbers. You have to open each post to see if it is the exact same number and the name of the poster. You then will see what name(s) this ISP addy uses.

This also can be used for finding a informitive post you would like to read.

Now enter my ISP addy and you'll see I only post as T_Bone my nickname for the past 35yrs.

Now what do I do with this info? When the trouble maker poster wants help to a problem, I ignor them!

T_Bone

Hey that is kinda neat.

I would even mention that you might want to look at my post to "Clubs----Your Opinion on this!" in the Tractor talk board. Nothing relavent to our discussion here just some of my philosphy on life and tractor show management.

I hope we can part friends here. Incendently my name is John Thumma. I am a 35 year old farmer in NW Iowa and I collect LP tractors with single fronts, any brand.

Thanks for the search tip it is always nice to learn something new.

JT

You can run 115 vac through a Rule switch, but there's no need to do it. Hook it up to a 24V doorbell transformer and a doorbell, and you're all set.