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Another welding question

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Robert J Spence

03-30-2000 16:24:57

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I have read some of the welding questions and would like an explanation or summary for the following.
I make up alot of my own columns with base plates etc and weld them to the steel beams of some of my residential homes.
Could you please clarify the parameters for ac, dc + or - for an optimum weld giving not only good looking welds but the strongest welds.
My machine is ac\dc 250amp and I use mostly 7018 rod

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7018MR

04-03-2000 07:37:16

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Re: another welding question in reply to Robert J Spence, 03-30-2000 16:24:57

Buy yourself a box of Arcweld 7018MR, moisture resistant. Burn it electrode positive, and you'll be thoroughly satisfied. For 1/8 rod try ;
flat 115-125 amps
hor./vert 105-115 amps
overhead 115-125 amps

Remember to preheat to remove moisture from weldment, multiple passes and slow cooling promotes grain refinement and thus a stronger weld.

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lefty

04-04-2000 11:54:37

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Re: Re: another welding question in reply to 7018MR, 04-03-2000 07:37:16

in the flat and horizontal position try 5/32 7028 .this is a lohi rod that can be dragged and gives great results at 230 amps dcrp,or ac if you want to eliminate arc blow.we use this rod or 7024 for 99% of the beam and column fabrication we do at the iron works i work at. the only process i no of that looks better is dual shield mig.

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Steve U.S. Alloys

04-03-2000 07:08:39

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Re: another welding question in reply to Robert J Spence, 03-30-2000 16:24:57

Hi Robert,
As a precaution you might want to check and see what the regulations are in regard to structural welding in your area. We deal only with repair and some code welding is done but not to the extent seen in fabricating and structural applications. Sometimes the process, filler metal and weldor certification is dictated.

A 7018 is an old line production weldors product designed to deliver a low hydrogen gaseous shield around the arc to avoid the condition known as hydrogen embrittlement. The problem is that the product is not designed for long term storage or for welding in less than ideal conditions. You may have noticed that it is not designed for restart either. If the manufacturers instructions for storage and restoration of the flux are not followed, the moisture bearing electrode actually becomes a hydrogen factory.

A simple experiment proves the point and shows how moisture is converted into it's base elements of Hydrogen and Oxygen by electricity. Both are enemies of a strong ductile weld deposit. Two water filled jars are inverted in a water tank and an electrode from a 12 volt battery inserted into each jar. The water is forced from the jars as the positive electrode produces Oxygen and the negative produces Hydrogen. The jars are lifted out of the water and a burning match is quickly inserted. The oxygen will make the match flame burn higher and the hydrogen will burn in the other jar. Electrode classification: E7018LH The letter 'E' stands for electrode. The next 2 digits represent tensile strength when the weld is stress relieved (70,000PSI in this case). The "1" indicates all position design and the "8" indicates the power supply, type of covering, type of arc penetration, and presence of iron powder. The "LH" stands for Low Hydrogen.

Polarity: AC= 1/2 heat in electrode. DC+= 2/3heat in electrode 1/3 in base metal. DC-= 1/3 heat in electrode 2/3 heat in base metal. Some electrodes run on specific polarity only.
HTH Steve

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B.C.

04-03-2000 06:13:32

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Re: another welding question in reply to Robert J Spence, 03-30-2000 16:24:57

Strength has its own beauty, which is why I favor the 7018 for "real welding", used with DC reverse polarity. The electrodes really should be kept fresh and dry, or baked just before you use them. The size of electrode and amperage depends on what you're welding. Lincoln Electric and others sell inexpensive guides that tell all about that.

The guy that said MIG if you can afford it has a point, once you use a MIG outfit you don't want to go back.

If appearance really matters people used to make a final pass, called a wash bead, with something like a 6013 with straight polarity.

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missouri mark

04-02-2000 05:01:20

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Re: another welding question in reply to Robert J Spence, 03-30-2000 16:24:57

weld with mig, wire is the only way to go,once you change you will never ever go back to stick
besides tools are a tax deduction anyway

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Rick/NC

04-01-2000 13:55:42

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Re: another welding question in reply to Robert J Spence, 03-30-2000 16:24:57

Another self taught welder here...find that 7014's are easier to start and also leave a nice bead. However, main problem I have with 7014 is when welding with thinner materials I am likely to burn through if not careful. Was just working on a shop project today and had a burn through and could not close it up with 7014. Used 7018 and was able to close hole right up. Had a professional welder tell me one time that a *bad looking 7018 bead is better than a lot of nicer looking beads with some other rods.* I tend to use a mixture of both...often use a 7014 to tack something in place...due to easy starting... and then switch to 7018 for project. Also find that 7018 will take a bit more *flex* than 7014 and that is sometimes used in making my decision. That's just my humble opinion...

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Jerry

03-31-2000 14:38:29

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Re: another welding question in reply to Robert J Spence, 03-30-2000 16:24:57

Hello Robert
7018 are good but my favorite is7014.Were on
the same stick.I have been welding for 20 +
years.Im a Maint Tech.Im self taught!The 7014
have a strength of 70,000pounds per square inch.
The same way with the 7018 but if Iam not wrong
the 7018 is mostly for over head and there good
for general purposes BUT they are not good for
welding over painted stuff.You can if you have been
doing it for a while.But anyway my favorite rod
is the 7014.It will work on ac or dc.It works better on dc.The 6012-6013 are great for ruff stuff.Just etch a bit of paint off and that 60 will go.

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RICH B

03-30-2000 17:31:45

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Re: another welding question in reply to Robert J Spence, 03-30-2000 16:24:57

LOW HYD OR 7018 IS A GOOD ROD TO USE FOR STRUCTAL WORK USE DC REVERSE FOR BEST RESULTS IT IS BETTER THAN AC.

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T Boege

04-02-2000 18:41:31

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Re: Re: another welding question in reply to RICH B, 03-30-2000 17:31:45

I'm both self taught and had quite a little in school on the welding subject. I've also done quite a little heavy repair on my own machines and townships grader, trucks ect. My best experience is typically to use a 6011 which provides a great amount of penetration on heavier material, then remove slag and make a second pass with the 7018
to cover the entire weld area. Also, allow the slag from the 7018 to remain for a few mins to cool. The slower cooling allows 7018 filler metal to become more flexible and less brittle. This method works well for me in the more extreme applications.

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Bill

03-31-2000 06:20:11

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Re: Re: another welding question in reply to RICH B, 03-30-2000 17:31:45

7018 is a good rod to use. on all rods the first two digets are the strength in thousands.amperage is usually a factor of rod size look in your manual or on the machine for a starting recomendation

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