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Miller welder

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Al

05-29-2002 16:34:52




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On the Miller web site they have a comparion chart of several welders. The Miller "mig 135 welder" has extra features the others don't have. For one - the duty cycle shuts off shuts off before it over heats. This welder costs more than the same size Lincoln which I assume is because of the extra features. If I should decide to buy the Miller I would hope these extras are trouble free? All the welders compared weld from 24 guage to 3/16" steel. Please ! could I have some advice on what exactly I'm buying.

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Trucker

06-05-2002 11:44:17




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 Re: miller welder in reply to Al, 05-29-2002 16:34:52  
I wouldnt buy a welder because it was a Miller,unless you get something with it you can use like an extra liner for aluminum or something.I would say go with a 220 welder,you will be happier,and after you see how much better it is,it makes those cheap ones high priced for what they will do for you.I have an HTP,smallest 220 they make.Its got copper coils,real smooth,and it will outweld all the 115 volt welders I ever saw easy,and I have used it all day and never kicked the reset.I just had to put a 40 amp service to my garage,I also have a 60 gallon compressor.I just try to weld while the compressor isnt running,but I can weld if its running as the welder only takes 20 amps.I just would rather wait untill it shuts off first.Especially if I have the welder turned up all the way.

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AL

06-06-2002 09:24:50




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 Re: Re: miller welder in reply to Trucker, 06-05-2002 11:44:17  
I haven't bought it yet however I now plan to go with the 220 welder. I am now thinking of going with either a Lincoln, Hobart or Miller. Thanks for the advice posted I realize I can run a Mig in my shop and they take less voltage than a 220 stick welder. You sound pleased with your welder. BTW what is a HTP.



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Al

05-30-2002 19:20:14




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 Re: miller welder in reply to Al, 05-29-2002 16:34:52  
Thanks all for the help. My small shop is about 100 ft from my house. I've ran a #6 line wire out from my house breaker panel to a small 4 breaker panel in my shop. Two of these breakers are the 220 that run my 4 hp air compressor. The other two are 110 lights & plugs. At the house the line to the shop is connected to the house panel on a double 30 breaker, similar to the dryer and stove.
It seemed as if running a 110 volt mig would be my best option given as I have what seems to me like a limited electrical setup and mainly for welding 1/8 or less material. My problem is can I safely run a 220 mig or stick welder from my air compressor plug and have the use of a light. I have a friend who offered me the use of his 220 stick welder but I did't feel safe about using it.

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Dusty

05-31-2002 04:31:46




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 Re: Re: miller welder in reply to Al, 05-30-2002 19:20:14  
Before you start changing breakers be sure that all the wire in that circuit is large enough. I'll bet that the wire from the panel to the over head line is # 10.

Dusty



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just_an_idiot

05-30-2002 20:51:21




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 Re: Re: miller welder in reply to Al, 05-30-2002 19:20:14  
I have to say that i agree with the posts saying go with a higher power 220 unit. I have a 120v unit and the duty cycle is to short for anything but sheetmetal.
a # 6 wire is good for 50 or 60 amps, so you have plenty of power in your shop. Im guessing that you compressor requires a 15 amp circuit. Lets look at it this way, your lighting takes 15 amps, 110, and your outlets take 15A, 110. so in reallity you are using 15A@220. This leaves you 35A@220 for your welder. your stick welder uses a 40A circuit(MY guess)it seems that mine uses that. The main thing is is that the size of a breaker is the max it can handle. Chances are your lights are only pulling about 5A max. Plus you generally dont use alot of things at one time when your by yourself.you might want to add an add-on box in the shop with a properly sized breaker for your welder. just mount a plug on the wall off this box. for a summery:

1-Install larger breaker in the house
2-put add-on box dedicated for your welder
3-buy larger 220 welder

but then again, I'm JUST AN IDIOT

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T_Bone

05-30-2002 15:08:05




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 Re: miller welder in reply to Al, 05-29-2002 16:34:52  
Hi Al,

Look at the duty cycle chart of the 135 to a MM175. A big difference and the 175 would be twice the machine for $100 more or $645 delivered. The 175 is a 230v, 20a input so it can be used on a dryer circuit if needed.

All top brand machines come with a duty cycle thermo shut off. There auto reset after exceeding maximum current duty cycle and takes about 1/2hr to reset.
T_Bone

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bob

06-03-2002 18:19:06




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 Re: Re: miller welder in reply to T_Bone, 05-30-2002 15:08:05  
TBone where is the 175 fbo at. that is quite a savings as what I have priced here. in Iowa Hobarts are that or more in town thankx s Bob



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Dan

06-04-2002 02:39:56




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 Re: Re: Re: miller welder in reply to bob, 06-03-2002 18:19:06  
Bob
Check out CYBERWELD.COM they have the MM 175 for $645 and the HH 175 for $555. They have about the lowest price you ll find. I ve heard nothing but good comments on there customer service. You could always try what I did, and take there prices to your local supplier. By doing this I was able to get my HH 175 for $530 and my MM 210 with spool gun for $1080. At the time (Christmas) the spool gun was a free added feature by Miller. Saved myself $60 by doing this. Actually, I ve saved myself more by buying these machines from my local store. Since I ve been a loyal customer to them they have refilled my shielding gas bottle for free the last two times I ve taken it in. That is another $70. But then again I just gave them $1040 for a Hypertherm powermax 380 plasma cutter too. However they knocked $60 off the in store advertised price.

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Dan

05-30-2002 04:17:50




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 Re: miller welder in reply to Al, 05-29-2002 16:34:52  
Al
First off, I d like to ask what is the main material thickness that you intend to weld on. If your thinking about welding a large amount of 3/16" material, I d recommend that you don t buy one of these 120 volt 135 amp machines. Biggest reason is because on average these machines have around a 10% duty cycle at there maximum amperage, which is what 3/16" material will require. Duty cycle is a rating of the percentage of time in a 10 minute time frame that you can weld before the machine needs a rest. Another good reason is max amperage. The recommended amperage range for 3/16 material with a solid wire and shielding gas is between 140 and 160 amp- depending on the joint design being welded. If you down load the MM 135 manual at the Miller website you will see that the parameter chart for welder setting shows settings for 1/8 material with solid wire and shielding gas. They suggest using a self shielded fluxcore wire for 3/16" material. The self shielded wire will give you a weld similar to a stick weld , meaning the weld will be covered by slag.

A better machine for 3/16 material that would be similar in price to the MM 135 is a Hobart Handler 175. Advantages are higher duty cycle and higher amperage. The main disadvantage is that it is a 220 volt machine.
Most homes have two 220 volt sources in them, these are the kitchen stove and the clothes dryer. Just yesterday I was running my Millermatic 210 from my stove outlet. Of course , this requires a properly size extension cord. My extension cord contains an in line fuse set up in it so that I can switch fuses to match the manufactures recommended circuit protection. The wire size of the cord is rated to the breaker at the panel.I have it set up this way because I use my MM 210, Hobart Handler 175, CK Systematic 175 (200 amp machine), 250 amp AC/DC stick machine, and Hypertherm powermax 380 plasma cutter off the same circuit and each machine requires a different recommendation for Max amperage of the circuit.

In the end though, If 1/8" or thinner is your target then 120 volt machine will be fine. However I think I d save myself about $100 and get a Hobart Handler 135. So you know Miller and Hobart are part of the same corporation.

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Mike W

05-29-2002 18:26:45




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 Re: miller welder in reply to Al, 05-29-2002 16:34:52  
Hi, Miller seems to have won the most popular contest. Both brands are good. I have a 200 amp Hobart thats been 100% trouble free for 20 years. I most always run at 100 amps with .035 wire. If I was to buy one today, it would probably be a Miller. I have a Miller wire feeder that I connect to a 24v battery charger for the power supply. Be sure the duty cycle specs will be adequate for your uses.

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