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I have used an OTC sleeve puller at work which has worked great for many years, however I can't afford one so I used a home made one at the house and it works better and faster. My only modifications to both of these is I picked up a split nut for the all thread so I did not have to screw the nut down then back off each time. A split nut will allow you to back off the nut enough were there is no bind on it then it folds and slides off. I also converted both to use a port-a-power ram which makes it real nice as well. My home made one worked as follows:
I made a plate which is a few thousands smaller od than the liner od, then put a step on it to fit inside the liner. I cut off each side of the plate so it would turn sideways going down into the liner then when it gets below the liner it will straighten out and fit properly. The joint between the plate and all thread is a heavy duty swivel joint (clevis style). My puller loads 100% from the top and takes probably less than a minute to drop down, tighten up, and remove the liner, about 10 seconds to remove the liner from the tool and start dropping down into the next hole. My puller stand that sits on top of the block has migrated from a peice of pipe slighlty larger than the liner to a 3 jaw puller body with 3 pieces of aluminum bar stock bolted to the bottom of it so that the legs are adjustable to the size of the liner being removed. The aluminum legs rest directly on the deck and do not scar anything. I built one a little smaller to pull and install cam bearings and it works great as well. If I could ever get it back from the guy that borrowed it I will be very happy, evidently he likes it also.
The OTC we have at work, you have to unscrew the bottom plate each time and move it over to the next hole.
Make darn sure that the part you make that fits the bottom of the liner is the same size or slightly smaller than the od of the liner so you don't scar your block up.
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