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Cutting Sheetmetal With An Air-powered Nibbler

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TMAC

02-27-2002 14:20:06




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I plan to make some square patches to cover holes and I also need to cut some small pieces with curves to replace some rusted out places on a tractor hood. I looked at an air-powered nibbler and a shear. I'm thinking the nibbler will be more accurate on curves. Any advice from experience will be appreciated.




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Rory

03-01-2002 22:04:36




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 Re: Cutting Sheetmetal With An Air-powered Nibbler in reply to TMAC, 02-27-2002 14:20:06  
Aw heck just go all out and buy a plasma cutter.



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T_Bone

02-28-2002 22:08:55




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 Re: Cutting Sheetmetal With An Air-powered Nibbler in reply to TMAC, 02-27-2002 14:20:06  
Hi Tmac,

A nibbler takes nibbles(notchs) out of the SM, usally 1/4" wide x 3/32" long depending on how fast it's fed SM. We use them for heavy gauge SM, 14ga and up. A nibbler will feed it's self if balanced correct therfor can be hard to control when self feeding. Although it will cut circles it takes alot of experience to control. Following straight lines is no problem but that is the trade I served my apprenticeship in, sheet metal worker.

A Uni-Shear slits SM. Can be used upto 14ga. They make two sizes, one thats cutts upto 14ga and is larger in unit body, and one thats smaller in unit body that cuts too 18ga and is easier too control but best used with 20ga an under. Will cut circles easy and takes little practice to cut well. Will not feed it's self so very easy to control. If the blades are not adjusted correctly, gap adjusted, they will be hard too feed and a person will fight the cut. The uni-shear also has a balance point, to the rear of the handle, that when in balance cuts extreamly well as the balance causes the upper cut sheet too slip on the cutting head and binds when too forward. Single cutting blade.

Double Cuts is a shear that removes a continous strip of SM 1/4" wide. These are really nice as the will cut round pipe without being center split. Center split= long ways as in snap lock pipe joint before it's snaped together. Cutts larger circles very well and cutts duct work extreamly well. Has a little problem on tight round curves as in small diameter pipe or smaller round prestressed SM. Double cutting blade.

Hand Shears all single cut blade:
The bull shears or bull dog(sm slang) (Wiss W16, or Pexto Brand if you can find them) about 16" in overall length with 2.5" jaws and good for upto 20ga, 22ga if you want them to last 35yrs like mine. Great for hand slitting sheets, general fitting work and larger cutting circles.

Small bulls M5, size like left and right cut hand shears, good for upto 18ga small straight cutts as jaws are 3/4" cut depth. Wiss or Kline being the best brands.

Left M1 and Right M2 cut hand shears. As the name says one is for left hand cuts one for right hand. Again Wiss or Kline. Wiss was starting to become cheap made the last pair I bought 20yrs ago. I still use my orignal Wiss snips I bought new in 1969. Klines were just to expensive for an apprentice wage but looking back now they were not expensive.

T_Bone

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Murray Dunn

02-28-2002 18:31:32




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 Re: Cutting Sheetmetal With An Air-powered Nibbler in reply to TMAC, 02-27-2002 14:20:06  
I was wondering if anybody would mention using a good pair if pattern snips for up to 20 ga or bull nose snips to 16 ga



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Kevin

02-28-2002 17:21:05




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 Re: Cutting Sheetmetal With An Air-powered Nibbler in reply to TMAC, 02-27-2002 14:20:06  
Everybody is correct so far, however nobody mentioned that an air nibbler is fast, they fly when you've got a lot to do. I like that they don't distort also. I would say that for a small amount of work, to just go with a brand new blade in your sawsall and save the dough.



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bbott

02-28-2002 07:05:25




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 Re: Cutting Sheetmetal With An Air-powered Nibbler in reply to TMAC, 02-27-2002 14:20:06  
A good nibbler is a valuable tool in the shop. Can't say if it's what you really need for this job or not.

Good things about nibblers.

Unlike a shear, it doesn't need to roll up one of the edges to get clearance and it doesn't tend to leave a sharp distorted edge. It will 'walk' into blind areas, and follow curves or complex cut lines easily.

Bad things.. bouncy and doesn't have any inherent tendency to cut straight. Like one of the other folks posted, you may need to clamp a straightedge to get a straight cut.

Another thought.. a GOOD metal-cutting saber saw with a fresh blade will do a remarkable job if the steel isn't too bouncy. Our sheetmetal shop had a purpose-built Bosch that was really good at jobs like you're describing. I often use my Milwaukee Sawsall for stuff like this.

Like most of the other folks here, I want to get a plasma cutter.. someday.

PS. Northern Tool has 'refurb' DeWalt cold-cutoff saws for $229.

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RobertTX

02-28-2002 05:41:28




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 Re: Cutting Sheetmetal With An Air-powered Nibbler in reply to TMAC, 02-27-2002 14:20:06  
I recently replaced a lot of sheetmetal in my wife's CJ 2A. I cut my patches with a 4 1/2" grinder and cutoff wheel. You can get a pretty straight, clean cut with this, but it doesn't like to make curves. Best deal is to rough cut the curve, then grind to a smooth radius.



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Farmer/Paul

02-28-2002 02:57:12




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 Re: Cutting Sheetmetal With An Air-powered Nibbler in reply to TMAC, 02-27-2002 14:20:06  
I have done my fair share of body work and fabrication. You could use an air chisel with a panel cutter blade, this would allow you to cut curves or make straight cuts..



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Rod (NH)

02-27-2002 16:00:45




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 Re: Cutting Sheetmetal With An Air-powered Nibbler in reply to TMAC, 02-27-2002 14:20:06  
I have both a nibbler and a shear...both pneumatic. The only reason I have a nibbler was for the thicker stuff that I could not cut with the shear...say 18 gage and heavier (up to 1/8" in aluminum). I don't use the nibbler any more since I have been able to upgrade to a plasma cutter. The problem that I always had with the nibbler was trying to make the damn thing follow a line, even a straight one...it always wanted to go off to the side without a clamped straightedge :o). You are probably not talking anything heavier than 20 gage. I think I would save your money and stick with a shear...even an old fashioned pair of hand tin snips for less than $20. The RH and LH ones do a good job at sharp corners and can be easily controlled. Hand is sometimes better than power unless you have a lot to do.

Rod

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