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Tig Weld

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BillD

02-19-2002 05:51:29

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Is it practical to tig weld an old cast iron manifold Was thinking about experimenting on a rusty piece of junk Will vee prep and use 321 ss wire weld a short bead cool skip and weld again

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Trucker

02-21-2002 19:18:13

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Re: Tig Weld in reply to BillD, 02-19-2002 05:51:29

I read about a process that used powdered iron and a torch,I think it was called a maintenance welder.Anyway they v it out,heat it in an oven to a certain temp,then use this attachment to a torch and an air line to blow the powder on,it makes a real smooth weld by the picture.I think they bead blasted it first,or hot tanked it.You couldnt hardly tell it was welded,but they had to cool it off slow.I think about 12 hours alltogether.

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george md

02-21-2002 22:47:23

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Re: Re: Tig Weld in reply to Trucker, 02-21-2002 19:18:13

guys I think you ought to get your heads out of the sand. I have arc welder, tig welder , mig welder, and also have fusible powder torch as well as metal spray.The worst choice of processes to weld cast iron manifold is anything that uses an arc , next best choice would be fusible powder torch as it is quite successful as cast repair tool. when all of the above fail because the manifold is either too low grade cast to arc weld or too badly burned up , get out the acetylene torch and the cast iron stick and the proper flux, then you can show the world how to fix cast iron.
Manifolds with holes or missing pieces , no problem put a piece of cast rod in and weld around it. with this process i fix the ones the rest of the shops botch up.

george

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Franz

02-19-2002 16:46:27

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Re: Tig Weld in reply to BillD, 02-19-2002 05:51:29

I've gotten away with MIG welding manifolds with steel wire, as well as Everdure with TIG. The biggest problem with manifolds seems to be getting them clean to start with.
If it's oil contaminated the thing that works best is baking it in Kitty Litter at 300 degrees for 24 hours.

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T_Bone

02-19-2002 15:46:06

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Re: Tig Weld in reply to BillD, 02-19-2002 05:51:29

Hi Bill,

Depends, some will turn out ok some won't depending on the castiron and the condition of the cast. I would preheat to about 1200F or so and let cool slowly (stress relieve) then preheat about 900F, weld, then stress releive again. If welding cracks drill a small hole at either end of the crack and keep it clean with a v-groove.
Sometimes 309 filler works well. I would also tie down the manifold, bolt to the welding bench, etc, if possible.

If Tig is not working out you might try oxy/act braze with brass filler using borax/alcohol as a flux.

Put it this way, you ain't gots nothin to loose trying!

T_Bone

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Mark Kw

02-21-2002 04:57:46

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Re: Re: Tig Weld in reply to T_Bone, 02-19-2002 15:46:06

Best thing I have found for manifolds is either 6IMP or NiCrFe stick electrodes each has it's value depending on the type of cast itself. 6IMP is a multi-use non-nickle rod designed for cast iron or dissimilar cast welding. NiCrFe is a high nickle, chrome, iron rod used mosty for cast steels but lends itself nicely to some cast irons. No or only slight pre-heat is necessary with these. Get the rod to just barely hold an arc without sticking using a 1/8" arc length. Run very short welds not eceeding 3/8" to 1/2" long. Follow immediately after breaking the arc with peening of the weld and heat zone to each side with the pointy end of a chipping hammer. Don't whale on it but give it sharp consistent blows to the point of leaving visible marks in the weld and casting.

Clean the weld area good removing all rust and carbon deposits. V-groove at least 1/4 but not more than 1/2 the thickness but not more than 1/16 the thickness wide. You can use a pre-heat of no more than 400F but in most cases it is not necessary if the weldment is at least 70F. After running each short bead, allow the part to cool. At no time should you allow the ambient temp of the part to eceed more than 200F.

I've done lots of these fixes. They take time but come out the best and it eliminates hours of heat soaking and slow cooling. If you don't wish to buy a lot or rods you may never need again, you can get by with a 316 Stainless steel rod but use no more than a 3/32" diameter, pre-heat to at least 400F, peen, heat soak at 400 to 600F for at least 2 hours then slow cool at a drop rate not exceeding 100 degrees per hour split into quarter hours.

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