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Trucker
02-21-2002 21:35:53
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Re: Re: Removing exhaust manifold studs. in reply to Vince , 02-18-2002 20:24:59
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Heat the bolt,not the cast,let it cool completly,squirt a bunch of penetrating oil on it,work it both ways untill it moves,if it ever does,keep squirting it with penetrating oil,and working it,once you get it to turn it mostlikely wont break.If it does break off,you can blow it out with a torch.The metal stud will melt out of the cast,you will have to run a tap through the threads afterwards.Thats a last resort though,I think the mill is better.I have put a washer over the stud,then got a big nut,weld the nut to the stud,let it cool off.The way you weld the nut is you turn the welder way up,get a 7018 rod and burn it into the top of the stud and sides of the nut in a slow rotating movement,untill the nut is completely full of metal,not slag.The slag will run out of the top of the nut,you can tell when its all metal.If you have to stop before you get it full of metal,chip out all of the slag before you weld it again.Let it cool completely,like a couple of hours,or untill you can touch it and not burn your finger.Take a good stout impact wrench and hammer it out or untill it breaks.Dont stop once you start,keep after it.If it turns some but still wont come out,try it the other way after squirting with penetrating oil.Dont try it the other way untill it turns.If you dont have an impact wrench,use a wrench,but if its solid still,it will proboly break before you can get it out.The main thing is be sure to put that washer under the nut before you start welding on it,it will be so hot by the time you get the nut full of metal if you dont it might stick to the cast.If you can drill a hole all the way through it without getting in the threads,do that first and squirt a bunch of oil in the hole.That works best before you weld a nut on it if it has a hole through it as some of the weld might burn down in the hole and when it cools it shrinks the bolt a little.Its usually hard to drill a hole in one of them as they get real hard,thats why you want to do that before you weld it.If its broke below the surface build it up with weld,try a 6011 rod for this,it will twist more before it breaks than a 7018,chances are it wont work anyway,but if it doesnt,try using 7018.The way you build it up is weld on top of it,stop,chip all the slag off,weld again.Takes a long time,you dont really want to do it if its way deep,one time I got a deep one out by driving a piece of copper pipe into the hole and building it up inside the copper.It didnt stick to the threads and after I welded a big nut on it,it came right out with an impact.Once you get a little above the thickness of a washer above the surface its allright to weld the nut on.Just burn it in good right when you start welding,work from the center out and around inside the nut,slag will be bubbling a lot but stay with it untill it is full out the top of the nut.You can use a mig if you have one.It works a little better to build a broken one up.You want the heat set to where you dont melt through the nut before you get it full,about 40 amps above what the max is for the size rod you are using should work.If its right the nut will be orange with a little slag on top of the weld and penetrateted right to the edge of the outside of the nut.When it cools off it will look like the head of a bolt.
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