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POLE BARN AGAIN

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Willie

02-04-2002 12:57:14




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Well, I got the cement floor and am about ready to start to close in part of this for a shop. I found a 9X7 overhead door (got extra panals so it could be taller) that is a good heavy duty type, used but that is what I was looking for (cheep). Question is if this thing is 9X7 what size of a door frame do I build? Seems to me the door frame would be a little smaller? Got the book on how you put the doors up but dosen't tell me what size of opening.

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old bones

02-08-2002 19:32:24




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 Re: POLE BARN AGAIN in reply to Willie, 02-04-2002 12:57:14  
according to general aluminum door company, make the finished opening the same size as the door, then use garage door weatherstrip to seal the edges. also, make sure your springs are correct. springs and cables made for a 9x7 door WILL NOT work for a 9x8 or 10x7. the cables won't be long enough for 9x8, and the springs won't be strong enough for a 10x8. any reputable lumberyard can get you the correct springs & cables.

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paul

02-05-2002 05:39:16




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 Re: POLE BARN AGAIN in reply to Willie, 02-04-2002 12:57:14  
There was a lot of talk about stud, pole, or metal building when you started this. But I think the metal was a frame building. What do you all think of the metal buildings where the skin is also the frame - no I-beams or such, just an arch building? (I'm looking for un-heated machine storage to keep the elements off the machinery here in Minnesota.) Anyone put up any of these?

Buildings like:
Link

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llamas

02-05-2002 04:05:45




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 Re: POLE BARN AGAIN in reply to Willie, 02-04-2002 12:57:14  
It sounds like you are using a conventional door in horizontal sections, guided by rollers in tracks on each side?

I've hung a few of these in pole structures. As said, the door presses up against the inside of the opening.

But what really counts in selecting the opening is where the track mounts will attach on each side of the door. The track mountings usually have various options, including reversing the brackets. Whatever the case, you want the track mounts securely attached to meaningful framing - not just to 2x4's spiked to the siding stringers, for example.

Ideally, you have poles on each side of the door opening, and you can either use the poles themselves or build them up with 1 or 2 pieces of 2x to give you a solid mounting for the door tracks. If you are putting the door somewhere other than an opening with poles directly on each side, you need to stop and thing about the structure you will need to add to support both the door AND the interruption in the siding. A proper header (directly attached to the poles) is especially important.

As to the opening, I make them 2" smaller than the width of the door panels (1" overlap each side) and 1" shorter than the height OA of the door. But then I trim the opening with 2x material with the weatherseal mounted to that. Reasons being 1) that if a careless driver does hit the side of the opening, there will be something more substantial than just weathersealing to wear off before the barn siding and trim starts to get torn up, and 2) the thickness of the 2x trim affords some protection to the track assemblies, and protects them from being torn off and potentially bringing the whole door down on your head. The 2x trim is easy to replace, much easier than re-trimming the depth of the door opening after a contact incident. Yes, it costs a little in the door opening.

HTH

llater,

llamas

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ShepFL

02-04-2002 20:37:18




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 Re: POLE BARN AGAIN in reply to Willie, 02-04-2002 12:57:14  
Like Tenn Terry T if at all possible pls consider larger door. Otherwise a few yrs. down the road you will probably be changing it out. While mine is bigger than some (12w x 10h) it is smaller than others I've seen. I based my door size on being 2' taller than my backhoe and width based on backing into door at nite with no assistance.
FWIW

Below is a link to some random pics of my WIP shop.

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tenn terry t

02-04-2002 19:15:34




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 Re: POLE BARN AGAIN in reply to Willie, 02-04-2002 12:57:14  
hey friend please take a little advice from me you need to make the door as tall as possible seven foot aint very tall im afraid that you will be sorry if you put that short of a door. dont mean to be mean but i am talking from my own experience



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Fritz Campbell

02-04-2002 14:09:46




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 Re: POLE BARN AGAIN in reply to Willie, 02-04-2002 12:57:14  
I rough framed my pole barns 8'x10'door opening exactly 8'x10'. My trim was fine for the top - but the side trim pieces barely cover. If I were you I would frame like suggested, 1" less all around. Garage doors don't need to fit into the opening, they fit behind it. I've threatened several times to reduce the opening by 3/4" each side - then steel cap the 1x's and remount the trim. But I don't heat the building yet so I'm leaving it go for now.

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buck

02-04-2002 13:43:44




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 Re: POLE BARN AGAIN in reply to Willie, 02-04-2002 12:57:14  

I rough frame a 9x7 at exactly 9x7 allowing for trim. let your trimming method dictate your rough framing method.If you can post your cnstruction method I may be able to help.



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Ray,IN

02-04-2002 20:04:20




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 Re: Re: POLE BARN AGAIN in reply to buck, 02-04-2002 13:43:44  
I agree, the opening should be the same size as the door. The trim will supply the proper fit, and it doubles as the weatherproofing. Back some years ago I worked part time for a business that installed all types of garage doors and the opening was the same size as the door for all of them. You must have a minimum 9 1/2" headroom for 4 or 5 section doors, add 2" for automatic opener. If you already have less than that, you'll need to purchase low overhead hardware. You already have the installation instructions so that should go smooth. If I may be of help feel free to email me.

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JHILL

02-04-2002 13:22:56




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 Re: POLE BARN AGAIN in reply to Willie, 02-04-2002 12:57:14  
I framed mine so the door laps over the opening 1 inch on each side.



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bob

02-04-2002 17:02:45




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 Re: Re: POLE BARN AGAIN in reply to JHILL, 02-04-2002 13:22:56  
maybe i,m missing something from pole shed to garage but menards told me to make rough opening 2 in bigger each way i think yiu guys are right but whats the difference thank god i haven,t changed mine yet



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Larry

02-04-2002 18:16:20




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 Re: Re: Re: POLE BARN AGAIN in reply to bob, 02-04-2002 17:02:45  
For a hinged door, or a prehung door the opening is usually 2" (+,-)larger to allow for door jam, then door is plumbed on the hinged side first, shimming if necessary, leveling the head of the door making sure it is square with the hinged side, finish the lock side last, shimming as necessary to keep plumb or read the directions that come with the door if everything else fails.



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