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Stationary Engines Discussion Forum

Removing flywheel on Maytag 92

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TimV

01-24-2004 18:18:59

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I've posted a couple of times regarding my Maytag 92 project, and I'm up against another wall. I don't have any spark, and a brief inspection of the electicals through the port shows a lot of corrosion that I probably ought to get rid of. However, I can't get the flywheel off. I have removed the nut, but the flywheel won't budge. I've hammered, heated, cooled, PB Blastered, and exhausted my reasonably extensive vocabulary of profanity to no avail. Is there something else holding this on? I've also tried it with and without removing the 3 bolts (or two bolts and the nut from the stud of the third) holding the flywheel collar to the flywheel. Any suggestion? I have seen "flywheel pullers" for Matags on E-bay, but don't know what they do--they appear to just be a threaded piece of some sort. I don't dare try a large puller on the flywheel itself for fear of breaking it.

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maytag-kid

03-20-2004 01:03:14

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Re: Removing flywheel on Maytag 92 in reply to TimV, 01-24-2004 18:18:59

tim leave puller on like mike said then get two blocks that are taller than the engine is wide. set them on the floor.get two hard wood 1 1/2 by 3" boards i use the centers off pallets. hang the engine flywheel off the two pieces of hard wood so the wieght of the engine works with you. then make sure your cener bolt isnt hitting your nut. also make sure you can see between the nut & fly wheel. then tighten puller real good. use a three pound hammer and hit it real good. your tring to get it off in one try. I've had lots of hard ones. it will come off. the only thing that holds them is the center nut and key way. i never use any kind of spay on the maytag. Don't give up!

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Brent Wegher

01-24-2004 20:41:08

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Re: Removing flywheel on Maytag 92 in reply to TimV, 01-24-2004 18:18:59

Don't need to remove the hub bolts, just the one large nut holds it.

Here is what might work. Get a couple wood wedges, maybe at a 30 degree angle. Tap one under the flywheel as near the center axis as possible. Don't tap hard, just enough to hold itself. Do the same for the other wedge, placed on the other side to equalize the forces. Make sure you don't bash the vent tube underneath.
Now tap some more, equalizing the pressure on each wedge. I use a 16 ounce hammer.
Place a piece of hardwood over the shaft to protect the threads and rap sharply. the pressure of the wedges will probably pop the flywheel. If not, add pressure to the wedges, and repeat the rap on the hub. This always works for me, on any engine I've ever worked on.

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TimV

01-25-2004 08:53:09

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Re: Re: Removing flywheel on Maytag 92 in reply to Brent Wegher, 01-24-2004 20:41:08

Brent: Thanks for the suggestion! One quick question: this method will work on a "normal" (Briggs, Tecumseh, etc.) engine--I've done it myself. However, have you ever tried this on a 92? The flywheel setup is not normal (in fact, nothing on this engine is normal!!) in that the flywheel fits over an inner hub that holds the electrics and there's no room to put the wedges. Also, the inner part of the flywheel is a steel hub and counterweight that press-fits into the outer section, which is aluminum. I'm afraid of breaking the (very thin) aluminum of either the inner or outer hubs if I try this.

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Brent Wegher

01-25-2004 23:28:27

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Re: Re: Re: Removing flywheel on Maytag 92 in reply to TimV, 01-25-2004 08:53:09

Now that you mention it, I'm not sure. It's been a while and I always use the wedge method on all my engines, almost automatically. Since I keep the wedges handy, and it is faster than the pullers. Actually, I think I just used a hammer with the nut level with the crank threads, not a lot of room for the flywheel. And a piece of tough wood to prevent metal to metal contact.
Also, I bolt down my engines to a work stand, partly because it makes unbolting corroded things easier, but it might help when banging on the crank to get the flywheels off. and I don't have to worry about the engine moving around. I can also walk around the stand and get at everything, and the height is optimal for me, I don't like to bend over.
Thats about it. The hub piece and the flywheel have to stay together for sure when removing the flywheel.
Just try a stronger hit with the hammer in this case.

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TimV

01-26-2004 04:25:53

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Re: Re: Re: Re: Removing flywheel on Maytag 92 in reply to Brent Wegher, 01-25-2004 23:28:27

Brent: Thanks for the clarification--I was afraid it wouldn't work on a '92. I built a puller yesterday from plate steel I had laying around--drilled 3 holes corresponding to the 3 hub bolt holes, then another 1/2" hole for the center puller. Put it on and and in short order I'd twisted off the 1/2" center bolt without budging the flywheel--this baby is ON THERE! Much as I hate to, I'm about ready to take this to one of my friends with more equipment than I've got.

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Mike

01-26-2004 20:07:43

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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Removing flywheel on Maytag 92 in reply to TimV, 01-26-2004 04:25:53

Tim, Get your puller stup on the flywheel again with a new center bolt and tighten it up so there's a pretty good pull on the flywheel. Get a medium sized ball peen hammer and whack the center bolt of your puller pretty good. This has never failed for me. That flywheel is locked onto a tapered shaft and once you break that "lock" it'll just fall off. I usually leave the crankshaft nut on, but loose, so that everything doesn't go crashing to floor. It only needs to be unscrewed away from the flywheel hub an 1/8 of an inch. Good luck. Mike

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TimV

01-27-2004 07:37:32

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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Removing flywheel on Mayta in reply to Mike, 01-26-2004 20:07:43

Mike: I tried that with a 3-lb hammer, and it didn't budge. I've got the puller assembly on it right now, as tight as I can get it, with the hope that a day or so of setting under load will loosen it up. It's probably a forlorn hope at best, but so far nothing else has worked. This puppy is stubborn--I've never had a flywheel come off this hard before! I am making the assumption that there's not another bolt lurking somewhere and holding it up, but I don't see anything, and from what I can gather from online manuals, part drawings, etc. I don't think there is. More than likely this engine hasn't been apart since it was new, and it's got 70 years worth of corrosion built up inside the assembly.

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