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Restoration & Repair Tips Board

The Works Tub tile cleaner

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JK2

10-14-2005 17:00:03

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I went to buy some "Works Tub & Tile Cleaner" the other day to use to convert some iron oxide (rust) to iron phosphate & found that the new WORKS doesn't have phosphoric acid in it anymore. Has anyone found another source for it that is cheap like WORKS was?
Thank you
John

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james lee

11-10-2005 18:03:46

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Re: The Works Tub tile cleaner in reply to JK2, 10-14-2005 17:00:03

we used to blow up mail boxes with that stuff when we were kids. just a 2 litter bottle and a big piece of aluminum foil. i guess i shouldnt give any mor details. it was fun though

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Eric Stevens

11-01-2005 23:22:26

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Re: The Works Tub tile cleaner in reply to JK2, 10-14-2005 17:00:03

I used to acidize boilers and industrial equipment and we used 7% HCL with a rust inhibitor (rodene)also used formic acid which was a little slower working. The use of steam and an inductor to suck up acid solution worked good on several projects as well. But we used respirators and chem. suits. To scale this down for something like this would take some care..just some thoughts.
Eric

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Wisconsin Bill

10-30-2005 21:30:38

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Re: The Works Tub tile cleaner in reply to JK2, 10-14-2005 17:00:03

I just got done with my 1966 Case 530CK TLB and my Oliver S55 projects and used a bottle of Naval Jelly with great success. Takes awhile, though, but I'm retired so time is what I got. Wire wheel off loose stuff, foam brush on naval jelly, go get lunch or a few hands of sheephead with the boys, then more wire brushing with the 3/8" drill and rest is gone. Tough jobs need another coat and more cards. I tried thick coats to keep wet longer to work deeper or covered with bits or saran wrap, but found thin coats did just as well and was easier to work with as you should rinse and wipe off residu before re-wire brushing. Naval Jelly is phoshoric acid and still legal in all stores here. I like plenty of ventillation as it will clean out your nostrils if breathing in too much and stings a little! Also work neatly and/or wash off hands or use rubber gloves. Then the really tough spots under the hood or that will not be seen, I treated with the "Rust Converter" Takes paint well and am anxious to see if it will last, though. But on dash and hood parts that show, I went to bare metal to insure long lasting results.

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Glen in TX

10-18-2005 13:00:53

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Re: The Works Tub tile cleaner in reply to JK2, 10-14-2005 17:00:03

I haven't looked for it yet but thought someone on here mentioned you could get phosphoric acid products at the discount home improvement places.

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ld in ne

10-26-2005 10:50:23

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Re: The Works Tub tile cleaner in reply to Glen in TX, 10-18-2005 13:00:53

There should be several products in the paint section of the hardware store to remove rust. I think one is called naval jelly, but they should all work similar.

If you want a less safe and more powerful option you can use muriatic acid (used for cleaning bricks or for swimming pool PH), but you have to be really really careful as the fumes are toxic. I think the EPA frowns on this one, but read about it on a metal painting web site. This stuff will take off everything except the bare metal! I have a power take off that's rusted and won't budge that I've been soaking in the stuff. I've got shiney bare metal on the ends that have been soaking but havne't got the midpart to come loose yet.

If you use this, you want to be upwind and way away from any place anything breathing will be. I've been doing it in the far shed and there's enough air flow to go in and open the big door and work, but you wouldn't want it in a sealed area!

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