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Restoration & Repair Tips Board

Repairing Hydraulic Cylinders

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thomas trees

10-28-2004 02:58:16




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I have a 67 loader attached to a 1982 JD 750. The mast cylinders are leaking and need new seals. Does anyone have any advice before I take this repair on? Is it complicated? (I grew up on a farm so I am somewhat mechanically inclined)




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T_Bone

10-28-2004 18:06:36




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 Re: Repairing Hydraulic Cylinders in reply to thomas trees, 10-28-2004 02:58:16  
Hi TT,

Hard to expand on the good info given. Mine used Chevron seals, looks like a V, for both the piston and rod seals. The seals need to face the correct way.

I found that a piston ring compressor, well oiled, worked well for letting the seal slip passed the threads, when installing the piston into the bore.

On some of my bores I found some surface rust. I used a engine cylinder hone on a extension rod to reach the back of the bore.

As with anything hydraulic, cleaness is a must.

T_Bone

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Bundy

10-28-2004 18:03:16




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 Re: Repairing Hydraulic Cylinders in reply to thomas trees, 10-28-2004 02:58:16  
i would make sure they are rebuilible first. If they are scored our pitted new seals wont help to much



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IH Rob

10-28-2004 13:39:10




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 Re: Repairing Hydraulic Cylinders in reply to thomas trees, 10-28-2004 02:58:16  
Not sure what type of piston seals are used in those mast cylinders, but beware the teflon type. They will be about 3/16" thick, and are usually a yellowish color. No problem removing the old one from the piston, just break it. Should be an o-ring behind it. Trick to install new is to heat it up some. If you try it cold, it will break, and you'll have to buy a complete kit to get another. A coffee pot burner works well. Just for a few minutes though - don't let it melt. After carefully installing on piston, tighten a radiator clamp around it to compress it until it cools. Hope you don't encounter one of these, but this will help if you do. ROB

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JMS/MN

10-28-2004 09:35:05




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 Re: Repairing Hydraulic Cylinders in reply to thomas trees, 10-28-2004 02:58:16  
When you go to your JD dealer for the seal kit, have him print out the page(s) in the parts book that show the cylinder in exploded view. Will give you a good idea of what is inside and how things fit together.



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txblu

10-28-2004 10:00:13




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 Re: Repairing Hydraulic Cylinders in reply to JMS/MN, 10-28-2004 09:35:05  
Good point and they are always willing to do it here.



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JMS/MN

10-28-2004 17:42:46




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 Re: Repairing Hydraulic Cylinders in reply to txblu, 10-28-2004 10:00:13  
Same here- big advantage with the computers and printers. JD likes to build smooth cylinders- no obvious way to take them apart. On the 7000 8row planter, they run a master cylinder with two barrels, and each of four wheels have slave cylinders. Those slaves are smooth- to get the piston out you pull back and watch inside the hose port, til you see the internal snap ring- which you then maneuver with picks or screwdrivers. Then the piston comes out. Bummer if you don't know that ahead of time! But the pix would show it.

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txblu

10-29-2004 08:21:08




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 Re: Repairing Hydraulic Cylinders in reply to JMS/MN, 10-28-2004 17:42:46  
That's the one that gave me fits the first time. Couldn't see release mechanism, but knew there had to be one.

Mark



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txblu

10-28-2004 08:28:14




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 Re: Repairing Hydraulic Cylinders in reply to thomas trees, 10-28-2004 02:58:16  
Never did a cylinder before but am a pretty fair mechanic and have a pretty reasonable understanding of hydraulics.

Bought a '69 4020 Deere and a Model 95 JD Combine (year unknown....'60 sumpin).

Between the two, I came out a hydraulics expert as it seems that every application had a different type of cylinder and a different way to disassemble them.

My advice is to understand that, on a double acting cylinder, what goes in/out one end does the opposite on the other. Allow for makeup air to replace the fluid when attempting to move the piston.

All have a piston connected to the end of the rod and it has seals. Some have just an O ring and some a O ring and backup washer, and some that do the really big work, like your lift arms cylinders, have a stack of seals (felt, rubber, and other stuff).

The piston has to come out one end so there has to be an access point. It might be a threaded cap, an internal or external snap ring or, you may have to push the end cap down into the cylinder to expose the retaining ring, which when removed will allot the end cap, shaft and piston to all come out.

Remember that the shaft has to be sealed, and the retainer to body has to be sealed so you have a double set of seals to look for on every disassembly.

Finally, there is no magic to getting them filled back up. Just install and work the hyd lever back and forth (engine running of course) and (keeping the fluid reservoir topped off) after a few (dozen) cycles, it will irratically start working and with more cycling it will smooth out as the air is worked out.

Good Luck,

Mark

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