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Restoration & Repair Tips Board

Wheel stuck on axel

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Howard Webb

09-26-2004 05:07:33




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I have a 1936 John Deere D with the steel wheel stuck on the axel. I ended up pulling the axel out of the tractor to get the wheel off. I had tried several things to get the wheel off the axel before removing it. The last thing was a puller bar and wrapped chain around the spokes and bent the bar (2” x 2” square w/ 1/4” wall) Then I welded ½” thick plates to it tried again. The push bolt is 1”. Wheel is still on axel.

Any suggestions. Please e-mail me.

Thanks

Howard

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Howard Webb

09-26-2004 13:42:53




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 Re: Wheel stuck on axel in reply to Howard Webb, 09-26-2004 05:07:33  
I have been soaking for two months. I even drilled some holes through the wheel hub casting to get penetrating liquid to the axel. I have heated until I ran out of gas. I only have one torch set and that will not get the entire hub hot enough at one time



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Ol Chief

09-29-2004 20:24:49




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 Re: Wheel stuck on axel in reply to Howard Webb, 09-26-2004 13:42:53  
Howard your E address is hidden. If I can help or you do not have success,call me @ 1 830 997 8296 any time.Regards, John Cooney, alias Ol Chief



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txblu

09-27-2004 05:41:40




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 Re: Wheel stuck on axel in reply to Howard Webb, 09-26-2004 13:42:53  
Man, that's one tough critter. Ok. What about sacrificing the wheel and grinding thru to the axle flange in a few places and taking a cold chisel and see if you can raise some metal, more pen oil and more grinding?

Mark



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txblu

09-26-2004 06:57:22




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 Re: Wheel stuck on axel in reply to Howard Webb, 09-26-2004 05:07:33  
Heat and bang. When you get it hot enough and bang hard enough it will come off. Don't know what the chemical relationship is, but rust gives up after you cook it.

Other option would be daily applications of KROL or some other high quality penetrating oil for a week or two.....then bang.
Mark



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Ol CHIEF

09-29-2004 20:13:50




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 Re: Wheel stuck on axel in reply to txblu, 09-26-2004 06:57:22  
I replied to a similar post last week.will suggest that you get about 15 lbs. of dry ice at your local supermarket.Here where I live in Texas it only costs $ 0.79 per pound.You will have to find a way to pack the dry ice all around the axle and freeze that shaft down as low as you can. ( maybe use 20 lb.dry ice )When you have consumed all of the material then warm the wheel.If it is a keyed assembly ,heat in way of the key on both sides of the wheel first as that is the thinnist spot and most likely place to expand open then follow around the rest of the hub and only warm same.I assume that you have already cleaned and polished the shaft to remove paint or rust in way of removal area.If not, an easy way to remove scale rust is to flame wash the area w/ your torch.The heavy stuff will pop off. If you have a good hyd. jack,good chain and a stout piece of steel stock,then you can build a strongback.Pass two or more chains thru the wheel and around the steel bar. Then place the jack between the axle stub and the steel bar and pump until you get a good load. Try to have a way to keep the chains as close as possible to the jack ram to prevent bending your bar.I.E.wrap another chain around the pulling chains to gather them close to center. If you have an micrometer or a caliper measure your shaft diameter before trying to shrink the shaft w /dry ice.Then you can take subsequent measurements to judge your progress.The shaft will only have to shrink a few thousands of an inch.The wheel may start to slide if you can keep a good load on the jack, even before application of heat.If you have no other steel possibly a stout digging bar can be used.Use gloves and caution handling the ice. It is a couple hundred degrees below freezing.Good Luck.Let us know about your progress. Sorry for the long post.Ol Chief

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