ammeter for 6V system

Thanks for any leads.
PC?

The other side of the starting solenoid (other big wire) goes to the starter terminal. It's that simple.

txblu

best,

txblu

Seems the dc gen windings are remaining hooked up to the batt term, not removed when you turn the key off. In an alt system, you can connect the output of the alt directly to the ammeter as the diodes in the alt block this discharge.

So what has to happen is the the gen output to the batt (via the ammeter) has to also be via something else and this has to be your ignition switch as there is nothing else on the tractor to do the job.

If you have an old Motors Brand Auto Manual (Blue one) that has a generator hookup you can see what needs to be done. There is also the voltage regulator to include in the wiring and you need to look at a diagram, not words. Otherwise, a wiring diagram of a tractor (any tractor to get the idea) using a dc gen should work. Polarity is not a problem if you see a diagram with a neg gnd; which I doubt as I believe the 12v system (for xixtr radio's and other things) is when they went to the neg gnd (for convenience). You are looking for hookup methodology.

I agree. If the gen is connected to the ammeter, when you turn the engine off it will bleed the batt dry.

txblu

AM sure you know all this but want to be clear about elec hookup as it exists at the moment ' this includes wire from BATT terminal on voltage regulator to ammeter; wire from other side of ammeter connects to where large batt cable from neg batt terminal connects to solenoid..cable from other side of the solenoid goes directly to the starter; so charging current flows through ammeter, then via solenoid terminal to the battery (neg battery terminal as it is a Pos ground system)

Hope my explanation doesn't add to confusion; I'm trying!
Thanks
PC

1. starter engine which rotates magneto which generates electrical energy via electromagnetics. This energy is controlled by ignition points to get high voltage out of it when and where you want it.

2. The engine fires and starts up, rotating the armature of the generator. This generates a dc voltage (in the armature) which is sent to the voltage regl ("A" contact as I recall) which pulls-in the contacts within the regl(closes them) and connects the field (F) winding of the generator to the battery (via the ammeter)which starts charging the batt because a voltage is induced in the field, by rotation. This volage is directly proportional to rotating speed and is why generators were notorious for not charging at low rpm's. They had to spin fast enough to generate more voltage than was on the battery to push energy into the battery.

The voltage regulator controls charging current to the battery and monitors voltage (regl adjustments at factory). ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----
When the engine is turned off, the armature stops rotating and the voltage on the regl (A) disappears which should cause the regl contacts to drop out. Apparently they don't (pitted and stuck together---welded). Since the generator Field winding is shorted to the gen chassis (internal to the gen), you have a direct short (a little resistance) to chassis from the battery hot term and the ammeter pegs discharge.
----- ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- -
I'll verify authenticity of what I have said tonight and if any errors, will clarify.

Mark

Better yet, give me your email and I will scan it and email it to you..... once I find it; may be a day or 2.

PC

• Bob M's diagrams

The "cutout" points are welded together. Even if you have a voltage regulator, rather than a cutout, one of the units inside is the "cutout relay".

This may have happened because somewhere along the line the battery has been installed with the opposite ground polarity of what it was when the regulator was first installed, without re-polarizing the generator before restarting the engine.

If you are the adventurous type, you can remove the cover from the voltage regulator and look for the unit with the heaviest contacts. This is your cutout relay. Pry the stuck points apart and touch them up a little with a point file. give them a puff of compressed air, if available, to remove and debris. WARNING>>> the unit may work just fine, or continue to stick. If it sticks again, the thin silver coating on the points is probably worn through, and it's best to replace the regulator, because when it sticks and kills the battery, there is a potential to burn out the generator, or start a wiring harness fire.

If you need to replace the regulator, make sure that the battery ground polarity is the way you want it to be, and then, after installing the regulator, polarize the system by using a jumper wire to connect the "BATT" and "A" terminals for a couple of seconds, before starting the engine.

From then on, when re-installing the battery, always connect it up the same way.

So far no more sticking of the points but if the problem happens again I willIknow where to check.
Thanks a bunch for your counsel and help.
PC

Thank you sir.

txblu

PC

Mark

Enjoyed it too and so glad it worked for you.

Mark