Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Attention Forum Users: On the 28th of December 2023 at 9:00am Central Time, we will be taking the forums down for maintenance while we prepare the new forums for your use. Please click here for more information.

Restoration & Repair Tips Board

valve springs length

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Jim mccarty

10-17-2003 20:13:42




Report to Moderator

I have a older briggs engine (model 130292 type 0369)on a tiller and I am trying to improve the horsepower have gone thru carb,govern,without much improvementnow the head and valves or now off and looks fair to good inside valve seats ok, some small scoring on the bottem of cyl,my question is the valve springs are a different length about 3/8 inch, exhaustlonger,is that right?also find mold ridges under both valves, 3/4 inch under seat, can I grind these off for better flow in and out?thanks
Jim

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
TO35

10-19-2003 04:42:08




Report to Moderator
 Re: valve springs length in reply to Jim mccarty, 10-17-2003 20:13:42  
Jim....I build briggs racing engines for my Brothers go-kart team. Those engines where designed to run thier best at 3500rpms. But if your looking to increase your power the governor will have to go first. Answer to your question is yes the exhaust spring is longer than the intake.
If you want cheap power first take out the governor, then you can open the intake port up some as your looking at the port work mostly on the left side of it with a die grinder and just clean up the casting marks on the exhaust don't cut much there because by volume and flow its already to big...next take your carb. apart and either drill out the jet to .41 or you can replace it with alike holley carb. jet. And lastly roll the engine over till the piston is at top dead center, and you can start from valve towards the piston with a die grinder and remover the metal in an upward motion taking care not to cut below the top ring line you will want an up hill flow and a roll over into the cylinder...and shave the head down about the thicknes of a head gasket....
Thats where the most power will be gained...
You can also do away with the points...just remove the cover and discard points etc. and cut the wire at the back of the coil then put you a dab of silcone over the wire end. , when you install the flywheel turn it to 1 keys width to the right past where the key would go add just a touch of locktite between the flywheel and crank mating surface and tighten the starter nut as tight as you can....now your all set your timing will be advanced about 8 degrees and that baby will fly.
I realize your dealing with a tiller and just want more power but you will not see any power gain unless you get rid of the governor period.
Just taking out the governor will give you more than you will need on a tiller...if you want mucho power then the things above will put you over the top and some where around 9 to 10 hp...
or if you have a local go-kart racing shop stop in and check them out you will find tons of briggs goodies there....or check out these guys on the net.....www.arcracing.com look at thier tech tips section.
If I can help your futher shoot me an email(take out the no spam part)
goodluck and best wishes...
TO

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Jim mccarty

10-19-2003 20:11:05




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: valve springs length in reply to TO35, 10-19-2003 04:42:08  
thanks for the web page and the Ideas on improvments I think my tiller may need racing tires if I use all the good hints.
Jim



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
R. Marg

10-17-2003 21:02:45




Report to Moderator
 Re: valve springs length in reply to Jim mccarty, 10-17-2003 20:13:42  
be careful with grinding we had a briggs that the valve seat popped out so we had to junk the block one of the best ways for more power is a biger carb like if you have a 7Hp put an 8 Hp carb on it there are other thins to do but these are the cheap fixes



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy