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Restoration & Repair Tips Board

Removing bush hog blades

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Peter

09-06-2003 18:22:38




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According to the manual for an SQ600 5' the blade bolts should be tightened to 600 ft-LB. That is a lot and I do not have an air wrench. Any sugestions?

Thanks.




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ted

09-07-2003 07:42:26




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 Re: Removing bush hog blades in reply to Peter, 09-06-2003 18:22:38  
If you have a 3/4" socket set, use that with a cheater pipe and call it good enough. You can make a multiplyer, some owners manuals(i know JD) have the specs. in them.



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Gene Davis(Ga.)

09-06-2003 18:53:39




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 Re: Removing bush hog blades in reply to Peter, 09-06-2003 18:22:38  
You can use a long pipe on a pull handle that is a measured length and a spring type scale and multiply the pipe length X the scale reading and get it fairly close.



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Peter

09-07-2003 06:35:38




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 Re: Re: Removing bush hog blades in reply to Gene Davis(Ga.), 09-06-2003 18:53:39  
I saw a way to do a similar thing by welding a socket X feet out on a
cheater then put a 100ft-lb wrench in the socket. Sounds good but I don't
have a welder yet. I like your way better. Thanks



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another doug

09-09-2003 04:44:58




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 Re: Re: Re: Removing bush hog blades in reply to Peter, 09-07-2003 06:35:38  
Yes, always a problem....but after removing them to sharpen them once , I got lazy (it's an inhertited trait in my family) and i sharpen them with a big body grinder while on the machine, just need to put a little edge on them...park the rig so there is a low place , then chock or set brakes good first....crawl under the front enough to sharpen one blade , then swing the other into position and do it too...If you have to take them off to replace them ,maybe there is a cover ontop of the bush hog that you lower your big socket and extension through, then it's time for a big pipe handle...have fun!

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Slowpoke

09-15-2003 00:11:41




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Removing bush hog blades in reply to another doug, 09-09-2003 04:44:58  
I wouldn't want to get on my back under anything with a big body grinder. It's dangerous enough using it standing up.
But I did read about a fellow that had a rust thru/damage on top of the mower. After cutting it out and preparing to weld in a patch, he decided to make the opening into an access for sharpening the blades by putting a removable plate over the
hole.



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Indydirtfarmer

09-09-2003 09:48:50




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Removing bush hog blades in reply to another doug, 09-09-2003 04:44:58  
We might be related by laziness. It runs rampant in my family too. I can just see me trapped under a bush hog! What I do is to back up to my low-boy trailer, and set the back of the mower on the trailer, so as to hold it a couple feet off the ground, then climb under it with the grinder. I have found that it's easier to touch them up every so often, then to wait untill they get really dull. Anything to make life easier!

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peter

09-09-2003 14:19:13




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Removing bush hog blades in reply to Indydirtfarmer, 09-09-2003 09:48:50  
Thought of that already, blocking the deck up and using a hand grinder, there are two problems for me. One is this is on unimproved land i.e., no power, and I don't have a trailer yet. Second, I can see needing two hands to "drive" the grinder. How do you keep the blade from moving?

Currently plan is to rent a impact wrench $25, and a gas powered compressor $80. Cost of not letting a bolt beat you, priceless. Sorry could not resist.

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Don Young

09-10-2003 21:33:02




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Removing bush hog blades in reply to peter, 09-09-2003 14:19:13  
If they were tightened to 600 foot pounds and have been on there a while it's going to take a BIG air wrench and lots of air to remove! Just don't want you to spend your rental money and get something that won't do the job! Been there, done that. I would rather buy the socket, extension, and handle. If you get a sliding T-handle, a pipe on both ends has a better chance of loosening it without bending the handle. Been there, done that too!

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Peter

09-11-2003 03:03:57




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Removing bush hog blad in reply to Don Young, 09-10-2003 21:33:02  
Got the sliding T and one pipe. Bent the pipe. The wrench was rated at 750ft-lb at 90psi. the compresser was one of those tow behind like you would use for a jackhammer. The first one came off ofter only about two minutes of pounding. The other took several runs at it with penatrating oil in between but it finaly gave in. Wish I could have keept the wrench for when it came to putting the new blades on. Used the sockit and sliding-T. When I got the blades I also get a manual for the SQ-60, as aposed to the SQ-600. The spec. for the 60 is 450ft-lb which is still a lot but doable. Thanks.

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