MF 35 replacing points condensor

I have replaced plugs, wires, distributor cap. It still won"t start.

I have a condenser & points which I now intend to replace.

How do I get the dust cover off the distributor?

This is my first work on a distributor. There appears to be a screw on the side of the distributor case. Is this what releases the dust cover? Didn"t want to try it without knowing for sure in the event that was what is used to move the point setting.

Also, will I have to try to set the timing on the tractor after replacing the points?

And would removing the distributor itself to replace the points ruin the timing?

My distributor is a snap clip style and NOT the screw style cap.

Thanks so much in advance for your help. Sorry I get to look so "dumb" here.

Hoping to get this fixed sooner than later as it"s cold and I was in the process of trying to move large bales of hay to my goats when this thing died.

Jennifer

As to the points, I did not see a 'pill' with the grease in it but had wondered since I noticed some lube under the rotor.

As to the electric conversion, I've already replaced so much and bought the parts to finish this job out (I HOPE) but will definitely look into this if/when this needs to be done again.

Thanks for the detailed info too on replacing the points and condensor. I was secretly hoping someone would add more that I had asked. I plan on working on this today since we have a balmy 54 degrees anticipated. I didn't know to set the points while they were open either, so appreciate that. When I looked yesterday it appears the points are totally closed, but I can move them. Sort of a grayish look to them where they make contact.

I enjoy my tractor. I've had it coming on two years now. Just bought a hay spear for it that I haven't yet been able to get on because the brush hog bolts seem awful tight and possibly painted on in place. SO right now I use a chain and heavy duty web tie down around the large bales to drag them into place. Once I get this running again tho, my next project is to get the hay spear on.

Thus far I've only had to replace the alternator belt, which was about shredded when I bought the tractor, a battery and a water pump. Now points and such. But still has been a wonderful investment.

I'd like to get this thing back to new like condition. A refurbish job if you will..... and then maybe sell it so that I can buy a bigger tractor. I need more horsepower for the things I am building this farm into and would like the capability of cutting and baling my own hay at some point down the road.

Thanks again. I may be writing more later after I look at this and see what other damage I can do here. *wink*

Thanks,
Jennifer

Also, I read somewhere that you can test the coil by taking the coil wire off the distributor cap, holding it close to the metal on the tractor and seeing if you get a spark????

I tried that and see no spark. So I need a new coil? Easy enough to put on if that is the case, but wanted to check.

Also, my battery is low now, so will have to charge it overnight and see if that helps.

Will get pics of the back end too for hay spear issue, but need to get it started first.

I am having fun learning, but this is frustrating just the same. LOL

Thanks.
Jennifer

Just came in from testing the circuit for power to the coil. No spark at the points and no power to the coil. The battery however is low and goes down to 4. something when I try to crank and starts at 11. something on the battery before cranking. I have yet to charge the battery so is my next step. However, I am also guessing that the ignition switch might also be bad????

How hard is it to get to the ignition switch for replacement???? If it ends up needing to be replaced once the battery is charged?

Jennifer
http://figbarfarms.com

From there I traced a wire back to the push button start and a wire to the battery amp guage on the console.

There is only ONE wire coming into the push button start mechanism. Should there be a wire going from the push button start to the ignition on switch?

The reason I ask is that I do not see a direct line from the battery to the ignition on. There ARE three wires (connected at two points on the ignition on switch) connected at the ignition on switch, will head back out shortly to see where those go to but no light on the test light on any of those connections.

Jennifer

I was looking under the hood last night and saw why the odometer does not work: No cable there.

I'd also like to fix the fuel gauge which I am assuming right now without investigating is a need for a new float. Tho that too might be a wire issue, don't yet know.

Jennifer

The battery wire ends up taking me to the battery gauge that sits next to the steering wheel. I have power going IN to that gauge, but no power going OUT of that gauge.

The needle in the gauge sits in the middle on 'zero'. I tried starting it and the gauge needle does not move. I was making the assumption that when I tried to start it, the needle would move indicating a lowering of the battery's power.

#1) Can the battery gauge be popped out of the 'console' from the top? And if so, how to do without breaking anything. Or does this have to be unscrewed from underneath, which looks difficult due to hands, position, room to work, etc....

There IS and has always been some level of condensation in this gauge and the tractor has been sitting outside so I am assuming it is possible water got in places that may have created an issue????

I was hoping there was a way to easily pop the gauge from the console to mess with the wires as this would be easier.

#2) The wire coming OUT of the battery gauge does eventually lead to the ignition start switch so thinking the wire or guage itself may be the issue.

Jennifer

More like HOMERUN! YIPPEE! Nothign SWEETER than the sound of my tractor starting! :)

I picked up some alligator clips and the 12 gauge wire per your suggestion and jumped the power in to the power out on the amp gauge. I almost didn't try to start it because I just KNEW it wasn't going to start. Bracing for yet another disappointing 'non-start' I pushed the start button and music to my ears, that baby started up quicker and ran BETTER than it has run in the 2 years I have had the tractor! New points, condensor, plus, wires, etc..... really helped as well I think!

I have been laughing and grinning since last night over this and how GOOD it feels to have my tractor back, as well as pride in the fact that with YOUR help and the help of this forum, I got it running! Still beaming!

My tractor got a hug and a kiss and a love pat as well as appreciation for itself! Silly perhaps, but that tractor? Man's (or in this case) woman's best friend! :)

Thank you SO MUCH to all who offered input!

I'll post here later today in the same category on the hay spear.

What has happened there is that on one side the arm that comes from the tractor to the 'ball' near the pin on the brush hog has come off the 'ball' and prevented me from being able to pull the pin on that side to release one of the points on the 3 point hitch. I tried hitting it with a sledge hammer but I think that is just trying to bend the arm. So will need some ideas on how to get that back onto the 'ball' so I can release the pin to get the brush hog off and see if my hay spear fits as purchased or if I need to weld some modifications to it.

Thanks again! :)

Jennifer-PROUD OWNER of a small model but tough ole Massey Fergussen, without which I couldn't do a lot of things I need to do on a daily basis! :)

I have not yet figured out an 'easy' way to get to the ignition on switch. I'm going to spend more time today trying to dissect an easy way to get in that area to more easily see and work. I bought a new switch 'just in case' but will return it if it is not the issue.

From what i have been able to deduce at this point, I see 3 wires going to the ignition on switch. I have yet to figure out which one is bringing power to that are but no power is on either side of that switch.

I have seen that areas not getting power do so once I clean the terminals. So maybe it will be as simple as cleaning all connections along the way.

I've been tinkering with this as weather and time permits but will have to spend a little more serious time on it today as it is getting old dragging hay to the goats by hand! LOL

Jennifer

As to my starter switch....

It has a push button start and a white pull out 'thing' I have to pull out before hitting the push button starter. What year model would that make my tractor (year range)???? I'm thinking this tractor is mid 50's to early 60's???

I know the battery has juice and the coil does not, so someplace in between.

I DO appreciate ALL your help, btw. Thank you!

Jennifer