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Broken exhaust manifold stud

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John

03-24-2002 07:42:03




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I'm in the process of my 1st restoration. In the process of removing parts I broke off one of the studs flush with the manifold. After days of spraying the others, there remains 2 more that I cant budge. The exposed threads are very rusted. Should I go ahead and turn them (breaking them), take the manifold off and deal with it then? Ive head of some sort of stud "griper" wrench that can be used if enough of the stud is sticking out. Do these work well.

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Jean-Ray

03-27-2002 21:04:35




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 Re: broken exhaust manifold stud in reply to John, 03-24-2002 07:42:03  
After having read all these good suggestions, I am a little surprised not having found the one I use since many years for this delicate work.
In the case the stud is broken flush to the head(that hapens all the time...) I take a good old bolt just a little bigger than the stud. I place it at an angle of about 45 degres and I weld it on the end off the old stud , using a 7078 electrode with a good heat. But be carefull, you have to be a skillfull welder, or refer to one.
The heat will act just the same as when you weld a nut on the end of a longer stud, helping to losen it.In some cases, the welding bead will dig a little in the cast iron, but it cant melt with it. Then , after it is cold, start carefully unscrewing it, using your bolt as a rench.Go several times to left and to right , givin it a chance to make its way.It will go out.I never miss one with this method. no need to drill and try inefficacious "miracle" extractors or waiting frustrating time.

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Bill

03-26-2002 07:38:02




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 Re: broken exhaust manifold stud in reply to John, 03-24-2002 07:42:03  
Had a similiar problem with a Dodge Ramcharger that I was trying to remove a cracked exhaust manifold on. After snapping two studs, the only ones we ended up having to drill and retap, my brother in law cut of the remaining nuts with a torch. We removed the manifold, then heated the studs with the torch, grabbed them with a set of vise grips and then slowly worked the remaining studs out without any problems.

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Dave_Id

03-25-2002 12:35:51




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 Re: broken exhaust manifold stud in reply to John, 03-24-2002 07:42:03  
If all the below fail, then you have no alternative but to carefully drill the broken ones out. Step drill it until you start to hit the threads on one side, at this point it's usually free, some guys use left handed drills if they are available for you. It'll screw out once it's free.



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Joe (Wa)

03-24-2002 20:50:08




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 Re: broken exhaust manifold stud in reply to John, 03-24-2002 07:42:03  
John, JMS has it pretty well covered. Get the manifold off and weld a nut on the stud about 1/4" from the head. The heat helps to break down the oxide on the stud threads. The stud is threaded a different pitch than the female threads so a lubricant/penetrate helps (PB Blaster works well). If you are trying wax apply it while the stud is hot, as it cools the wax will capillary into the threads. I don't like using visegrips or cam type stud pullers because the leverage is at a right angle to the stud and creates internal heat that often breaks it off flush with the head. Try an impact wrench set at lowest torque that will put the leverage perpendicular to the stud and the hammer action helps break it loose. Above all have patience. Soak it and keep trying the impact. Might take days but better than pulling the head and carting off to a machine shop. Good luck, joe

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JMS/MN

03-25-2002 07:17:27




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 Re: Re: broken exhaust manifold stud in reply to Joe (Wa), 03-24-2002 20:50:08  
Great! Now I know I'm not nuts-someone else thinks wax works. The idea of grinding off the nut is good too, if it's accessible with a grinder. Also, once you notice movement on the stud, work it back and forth slowly rather than a continuous pull in one direction to start with. A extra shot of penetrant wouldn't hurt either.



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Don Young

03-24-2002 20:28:32




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 Re: broken exhaust manifold stud in reply to John, 03-24-2002 07:42:03  
I would try to cut the nuts off with a nut splitter, cold chisel (with air hammer if you have one), or die grinder first. After you get the manifold off, then decide if you want to replace the studs. Welding on a nut is probably the best, if the stud itself will withstand the torque to loosen it. The heat of welding will help, but let it cool before trying to turn it. Rapping straight on the end as hard as you feel you can without breaking something will help. The next step would be to drill and attempt using an extractor. The Eaze-Out type are not often effective for twist-offs; my best luck have been with the straight spline type made by Ridgid and sold by Snap-on. Finally, drill out and retap. Most machinists are quite experienced at this work.

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Joe (Wa)

03-24-2002 21:07:48




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 Re: Re: broken exhaust manifold stud in reply to Don Young, 03-24-2002 20:28:32  
Hi Don, I been down this road with easy-outs many times. The reason they don't work well is because they expand the stud against the threaded hole. The spline drive cuts into the stud as opposed to expanding. A cheap option to the spline type is a square drive torx head. They work on the same principle but can be drilled out if broken. Joe



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JMS/MN

03-24-2002 12:52:20




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 Re: broken exhaust manifold stud in reply to John, 03-24-2002 07:42:03  
There is a stud removal tool with a gnurled ring to grip the stud, but it may still break off. Can you heat it with a torch? I'd remove the remaining ones, even if they break- then the base of the stud is exposed,(usually that portion is in better shape) and you could try heat and a vice grip. Also, after heating I often hold a wax candle to the stud, let the wax into the threads. Maybe even leave it sit a few hours to soak in. (Doesn't hurt to use a blessed candle! ha). I don't swear by it, but it saves swearing at it, and some think it's a nutty idea, but I'm not the only one that thinks it works. Can also weld a nut to the stud, and wrench it off. The heat of welding often loosens them up. Reassemble with Never-Sieze.

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