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Tractor Pulling Discussion Forum

general question

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new to it

11-14-2006 17:04:09

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If I were to leave the sidelines and without my personal bias, which make and model is the tractor which would produce the biggest bang for my buck in this sport?

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moline g

11-17-2006 15:00:41

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Re: general question in reply to new to it, 11-14-2006 17:04:09

i have only been pulling for 6 years. my family has alwyas farmed with john deeres so that is what i stated on a old 70 diesel deeres are good for there bottom end but you have to sink money in them to get the ground speed. after that i statered pullign farmalls due to you can pick them up cheap. i pulled a farm stock m and then a decent size 560. i now own a moline g and agree with the other mm guys on here you cant beat them it is cheap to make big cubic inch engines wit them and they are a much simpilar engine to build. if you would liek to c a picture of my g email me and i will send you one it is very sharp.

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bcasteel

11-16-2006 06:23:09

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Re: general question in reply to new to it, 11-14-2006 17:04:09

New to it. I see you like the UB's Give me a call. I may be able to help you out with one. I am located in central Illinois. (217)-621-7711 Otherwise you can just give me a call about pulling in general. I love to talk tractors.

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Dave in MN

11-15-2006 19:03:38

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Re: general question in reply to new to it, 11-14-2006 17:04:09

You already have a great tractor to play with. As long as your 400 has a working TA, you will very competative in the "farm stock" classes and if your money is smoldering in your pockets, $5-7500 of engine work will get you alot of excitement. It might be a good idea to hire a good engine builder. People on this board will be happy to steer you to some reptilible (hope I spelled that right) builders. I would get in line now for work to be done as these folks get very busy.

By the way, I've pulled a 400 for several years with a mostly stock motor (58 hp) and have a couple of 10' long shelves in my machine shed full of trophys.

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new to it

11-16-2006 16:52:39

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Re: general question in reply to Dave in MN, 11-15-2006 19:03:38

i need those engine builder recommendations. it would appear according to the discussions Denny"s is only good for a place to eat and Sharp"s isn"t any better. Lemmon"s looks good anywhere else and how would i go about determining who specializes in what make and models. Also how do i contact these people?

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Dave in MN

11-16-2006 19:28:18

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Re: general question in reply to new to it, 11-16-2006 16:52:39

Stay away from Denney's. A few people who buy smaller items seem satisfied, many more aren't happy. There's been alot of doubters out there on some of the claimed dyno numbers from his engine products. The woman (wife?) who answers the phone drives away more busness than she is worth.

I have no personal experience with any of the "professional" engine builders. Post on the board here for some feedback on people specializing in IH (if that's the way you decide to go) engines. Good luck.

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SMP

11-17-2006 12:51:31

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Re: general question in reply to Dave in MN, 11-16-2006 19:28:18

Lemmons is good, Paul Marlett 765-938-2227 and a guy named Baker out of Mich made the red ones go.

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new to it

11-18-2006 09:06:49

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Re: general question in reply to SMP, 11-17-2006 12:51:31

by red ones, you mean farmall correct?
unless you mean mh?

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Super 9

11-15-2006 16:23:17

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Re: general question in reply to new to it, 11-14-2006 17:04:09

Hey Piston got any thoughts on a Ih 301 ? Thanks

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bcasteel

11-15-2006 08:27:36

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Re: general question in reply to new to it, 11-14-2006 17:04:09

Pick a class you want to run, pick a set of rules either national or local and then start your build, just remember that there is no perfect tractor, all have strong and weak points. Build to the limit of what your rules allow, on what ever brand you choose, and have a good time. Tractor pullers for the most part are a good group of folks. Stock, MPH, or open classes, its just in how far you want to go. Remember, speed costs money, How fast do you want to go? We have several tractors with several brands represented, including MM, IH, AC, and just got our first JD 2 popper, all are competitive tractors in there own division, and not worth a darn in others. They also will lend themselves to different weight classes, which may be something for you to consider since you will be purchasing a trailer. Ask yourself just how far you will be going? and how much weight you are willing to haul down the road? Just some food for thought.

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new to it

11-15-2006 18:19:07

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Re: general question in reply to bcasteel, 11-15-2006 08:27:36

Would it be safe to say that ollies are the best all around? allis and ollies for lighter classes? Farmalls and ollies and molines for heavier classes (less than 7500#)? what would you say for mh? I have surmized that they would be in the lighter category as well. i still wonder about the availability of parts. M&W aftermarket products are no longer available new are they?

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bcasteel

11-16-2006 06:35:49

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Re: general question in reply to new to it, 11-15-2006 18:19:07

You are pretty close on your estimate on weights. The molines are definately one of the heavier of the bunch when it comes to the scales. The olivers are definately a tuff act to follow, But there are some light IH out there also along with the a-c's. Some tractors get pretty chopped up, to get them down to weight. Depends a lot on how wide of a range you want to pull, or how much your back can take slinging weights in a days time. Suitcase weights are great. In my opinion, wheel weights suck after throwing them off and on for the second time in a day. Its helpfull to bring a friend if more than three weight classes is what you are wanting to do.

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Mopower

11-16-2006 04:30:22

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Re: general question in reply to new to it, 11-15-2006 18:19:07

Look at possibilities in a Moline R or 335. Great light class possibilities. Bolt in parts make 40-70 h.p. in 3000-4500 classes. Yeah, I am biased!

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Mopower

11-15-2006 04:49:34

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Re: general question in reply to new to it, 11-14-2006 17:04:09

I collect and pull Minneapolis-Moline. I believe they are most economical to build power because their parts (cranks, blocks, heads) are more interchangable as well as originaly larger than other brands. This alows you to build huge cubic inches for very little money. I pull a UB making around 100 h.p. We took quite a few 1st places along with numerous 2nd and 3rd spots this summer spending about $2200 including the tractor. Many other brands we beat spend 2-4 times this amount to compete in the same classes.

Farmalls are not to shabby either because they are plentiful, parts interchange with later models, and M&W aftermarket parts are out there yet even though the cubic inches are significantly less.

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DSK

11-14-2006 20:04:42

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Re: general question in reply to new to it, 11-14-2006 17:04:09

Most of us involved in this hobby are pulling the brand that we grew up with and have had an allegiance to for years. In my case, it's the 2-cyl. John Deeres... I pull em because I like em. Although they have some strong points with all the low end torque and lugging ability, almost all their multi-cylinder counterparts will yield more HP per dollar spent. If I had no brand allegiance and $15000 in the bucket, I would start with an Ollie 88 or Farmall 460... lots of potential with 6 holes to work with.

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new to it

11-15-2006 16:48:05

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Re: general question in reply to DSK, 11-14-2006 20:04:42

why do you specify the 460 opposed to the 560? curious as to whether $$$$ plays a role or if it was just a preference

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dctom

11-14-2006 17:09:58

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Re: general question in reply to new to it, 11-14-2006 17:04:09

according to how big your BUCKS are

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new to it

11-14-2006 17:14:30

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Re: general question in reply to dctom, 11-14-2006 17:09:58

i was hoping to spend not more than 15000 including the purchase price - i also realize that sometimes it is easier to buy already complete, my problem is that i am not that experienced to know what it is i would be buying.

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Lamont

11-14-2006 19:07:02

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Re: general question in reply to new to it, 11-14-2006 17:14:30

HOLY SMOKES !!! Is that 15000 as in $15,000.00? That will go a LOOOOO OOOOO OONG way unless you're just wanting something that will run down the track at 20 or 30 mph. That kind of money will cover about any brand you want to choose.

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new to it

11-15-2006 03:27:40

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Re: general question in reply to Lamont, 11-14-2006 19:07:02

I was not planning on tearing up the track but am looking at it this way - 1957 and older, $3000 purchase, $5000 restoration, $7000.00 engine. this is a maximum because somewhere in there i should budget for a trailer. What about the availability of parts? Based on ads and questions hubs look like an issue. Not that many years ago I would have had to say the farmall would have been the best choice in that they seemed most popular. Now it doesn"t seem that way and in the back of my mind economics not loyalty must play a role.

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JDBert

11-15-2006 09:15:16

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Re: general question in reply to new to it, 11-15-2006 03:27:40

I got a massey 44 that needs a new home IF you really wanna spend that much you'd have $11000 to spend on a trailer after buying mine.

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GPULLER

11-16-2006 08:27:11

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Re: general question in reply to JDBert, 11-15-2006 09:15:16

Bert, this is a discussion board, if you want to sell something put it over on the Photo ads.

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piston

11-15-2006 07:01:40

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Re: general question in reply to new to it, 11-15-2006 03:27:40

i can save you a lot of money, if i had your email address or you just fooling around???

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new to it

11-15-2006 16:44:58

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Re: general question in reply to piston, 11-15-2006 07:01:40

First of all - thank you to all those responding this has been informative. i am not fooling around just trying to do real research. i will now say that my loyalties up till now have been with either the farmall or the mh because that it what i grew up with in the farm. i also grew up watching the farmall's out perform as a general statement. it has been about the last 5 years that i have noticed the performance of the olivers gain with great stride so i am curious. my dad has an old farmall 400 that is just about farmed out but i am discouraged with this as a puller because the pulls i have watched, i do not see them and i can deduce there has to be reason.
note to piston - i have an email listed now and would like to take you up on the offer .
bcasteel - i would like to stay below 6500#'s for transportation purposes as pointed out. i haven't any experience with the national events. i have been exposed and volunteered at local events and fairs.
mopower - i agree with your statements based on observations and conversations with mm drivers. what is the availability of parts like? and i like the ub.
jdbert - send me more info.

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UTU puller

11-17-2006 11:35:27

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Re: general question in reply to new to it, 11-15-2006 16:44:58

I have been pulling for only 3 yrs. I will ad is keep tracks in mind. I have seen tractors that have continually do well fall flat on there face on certian tracks. If you want to pull under 6500 I would look at 4200/4700 or lower. 5000-6500 are typically FULL classes around here. I weigh in with my 49 UTU at 6300 with me on it and last summer the fullest class I was in was 24. If money is not a major issue as it was for me, watch what pulls well in your area and go that route. Once you get something play with the weights, dont weigh it down to the max for the class cause you have room.

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new to it

11-17-2006 16:11:31

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Re: general question in reply to UTU puller, 11-17-2006 11:35:27

utu, are you saying that if a class max is 6500 that you may want to go in less than that? I"ve not heard of this strategy. ONe question - why minnie, because of sentiment or because of economics?

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UTU Puller

11-25-2006 12:33:18

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Re: general question in reply to new to it, 11-17-2006 16:11:31

I went yellow because that is what I started pulling with. My former employer had a "small" collection and let me pull with a ZAN diesel. When I quit working there I had 2 yrs pulling and had no intentions to quit. Around here molines usually finish well, consitantly. Plus the price tag. I hope my next pulling tractor will be a JD 720. I would like a 2nd tractor in the 7500 to 8500 range, different feeling pulling. I do have a JD A that maybe next year will make it to a few

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UTU Puller

11-25-2006 12:27:14

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Re: general question in reply to new to it, 11-17-2006 16:11:31

I bough my UTU in april and have done about 5 pulls with it, pulling against an "IDENTICAL" UTS. I bought mine from this the guy. At the the 4th pull there was issues with the scale and gave everyone 100 pounds over plus the 1% allowence. The UTS pulled before me at just over 6600 and he was giving me s#%t about my weight at 6315. I did not run out of power and went about 15 ft further down the same set of tracks.

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