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Tractor Pulling Discussion Forum

Which Manifold for M?

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terryjd

08-02-2005 10:39:40




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Fairly new to pulling and on a budget. Want a little more hp for a stock M is there any aftermarket manifolds that a person could buy that would be as good as a LP manifold? Would a person have to have a 450LP head or would a 450 gas head be of any help to hp on a M? If buying used does anybody have the parts numbers I would need too look for, for the manifold and head? Would I need a different carb then on M now? I think this will be a one piece at a time buying depending on the prices. Sorry for the long post but after going through a 2'nd year and having a great time at the pulls I need to boost hp a bit and have been trying to figure all this stuff out. Thanks for any help

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Dave in MN

08-02-2005 16:56:16




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 Re: Which Manifold for M? in reply to terryjd, 08-02-2005 10:39:40  
Before you get too happy with the pocket book, check with your local pull rules, some can get pretty picky about "stock appearing manifolds".



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supermpuller

08-02-2005 12:29:38




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 Re: Which Manifold for M? in reply to terryjd, 08-02-2005 10:39:40  
Hank Steel in Mich has what you need , phone 231-584-3322



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ChadS

08-02-2005 15:15:46




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 Re: Which Manifold for M? in reply to supermpuller, 08-02-2005 12:29:38  
I agree that is one good manifold, I dont know, but mite be a bit big for a Stocker M,,,, I think a Vinson aftermarket is a good manifold. We had one on a 6 inch stroker SM, and was plenty of intake for it, they are bigger, and staighter runners than an original manifold, not so hard of turns in it to restrict flow. They are about the cost of a new manifold, Tisco has them. Hope this helps, Does any one know if Steel makes a LP manifold for he H-350??? Ever see one? ChadS

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terryjd

08-02-2005 18:11:08




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 Re: Which Manifold for M? in reply to ChadS, 08-02-2005 15:15:46  
Not many rules are enforced around this area at pulls. A couple of tractors around here that if they show up you know they are going to win a few classes, just keep adding the weight and moving up making full pulls while rest of the best stock tractors are 40 or 50 feet back. Right now the old M is competitive and use to win now and then but in last couple of years it has fallen back of a few other tractors. It is my dads M and at 75 his pulling days are more limited due to his eyesight so I have been helping him by doing the driving to the pulls, lugging the weights, keeping tractor tuned, all that fun stuff. Lucky I have an understanding wife. I would like to see him get the odd win again so I am doing some research and see what I can come up with for him. I will check out that manifold and see if he wants to give it a try. Am open to any other ideas anybody may have. Thanks

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ChadS

08-02-2005 19:26:38




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 Re: Which Manifold for M? in reply to terryjd, 08-02-2005 18:11:08  
I just had a good M in the shop yesterday on the dyno, went thru it, and found the mechanical advance was shot in the distributor, I dunno why I keep finding them like this,, just shot, check that out,,, remove the distributor cap and give the rotor a snap, to check the spring advance, if its sloppy, or dont snap back all the way, the timing is just floating around an can cost you hp and not know it, either clean it up and get it working, or replace the springs with ones used in a chevy recurve kit. It changed the base timing at 540, and picked up a hp, but ran alot better. Check into that Vinson manifold, its a neat intake. are you running a 248, or a 264? ChadS

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terryjd

08-02-2005 21:45:24




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 Re: Which Manifold for M? in reply to ChadS, 08-02-2005 19:26:38  
Will check that out and see if the rotor has a good snap to it. It is a 248 in it. Was rebuilt 20+ years ago at the farm dad bought it from where he was working at the time. Around 12 years ago it sat outside for 2 years and some water got in and seized up a piston. tried towing it but the back tires would just slide. Dad took head and pan off, got a piece of wood and hammered the wood on the piston till it freed up but broke the sleave. Got a 3 7/8 sleave frooze it, dropped it in put everything back together and away it ran again.

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ChadS

08-03-2005 05:13:33




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 Re: Which Manifold for M? in reply to terryjd, 08-02-2005 21:45:24  
Least it popped loose right?!! I had trouble with the clutch sticking to the flywheel and have no clutch. One year it was stuck so bad, had to put it on the dyno and enguage and disenguages the clutch with the dyno on to break it loose. Hasnt done it since thankfully. Whats happening, you running out of power, or spinning out? If powering out,,, maybe a set of 4 inch piston and sleeve set mite give you a couple more hp,, cam would help too, Run one from a SuperM-450, that would help low end torque. Also, a Super M flywheel and clutch would be a bit heavier and give it a little more momentum. You could give it a redneck tune up, and pull out the sleeves and run 4-1/8th bore pistons from a SM-400 with the big wrist pin, takes you out to 281 cubes, then run a 450 head gasket to seal it up. The M gasket is smaller in diameter across the fire ring, the 450 will cover it. 450 comfortmatic pistons you get from Tisco, are stepped heads, not firecraters, and would have no trouble with clearence on the head. Seen tractors like this make 65+hp and did it with a used set of pistons. There just is not much you can do to the ol 248, without alot of changes,, cams, heads, carb and manifold, governors,, to get the most out of it. It takes compression to wake them up, Hopefully yours has a stepped head piston set, instead of the traditional flat top pistons that were widely used in the 248's. Do you have a 8060 head? ChadS

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terryjd

08-03-2005 21:09:17




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 Re: Which Manifold for M? in reply to ChadS, 08-03-2005 05:13:33  
Yep it popped loose just took a lot of hammering. Haven't seen a stuck clutch yet sounds like that could be a pain to get loose without a dyno. On a clay track it seems to be a bit of both. Front end will get light and go up some and its a wide front. Think need more weight on the front on them tracks. Motor will really lug down then spin out as front end is riding in the air. On stone dust tracks it will spin out. Have to use low gear not enough power in 2'nd. Usually run the 6400 pound class. Tractor seems to run slower down the track then other tractors and think a bit more momentum might help get through the bad spots on the track but might hurt at the end of the pull. Running 7 pounds of air in 13.8 X 38 goodyear Dyna torque tires. Sounds like you have lots of ways of making more power in your engines. Will have to go over it all and see what will fit in the budget. Can't remember which pistons are in the tractor will have to ask dad he remembers everything. Not sure what the number of the head is will have to take a look and see if I can find it. I know the compression is running around 125 to 130 on each cylinder. Would a pair of used 30% long bar-long bar style tires pull better then the new long bar-short bar Goodyears that are on it?

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ChadS

08-04-2005 06:41:28




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 Re: Which Manifold for M? in reply to terryjd, 08-03-2005 21:09:17  
Alot of tuning has to do with knowing your tractors engine, and its components that you already have. Trying things differently, and test it on the track. 130 is not a bad start,, so it may have stepped head pistons in it,, its when its like 100-110 you know you mite have flat tops. You can search the archives here in this board and find all sorts of info,,, The head casting number is under the valve cover. Some people like the dyna torques, some hate em, I have a Super M that likes them, Ive seen alot of close to stock HP tractors like a new tire,, contrary to popular belief, we have another M inthe family, that has a brand new set of 14.9X38 firestones on it, on 11 inch rims, it always works the engine at the end of the track, giets all it can handle form the amount of hook it gets, he runs 17psi of air in them to help keep the bars from folding back so much, and it does seem to help,,, Id say the tires you mentioned mite help a bit,,, on the tracks you spin out on, they just mite give you a little more bite and not dig so much and put dirt infront of the pan and stop you sooner. Ive got quite a few sets of good used pistons that mite help out the budget,, I keep all the pistons and pins from the ones that come in for engine work, everything from firecraters, to stepped heads,, even some flat tops too,,, Really, to get the most out of it,, you got to make sure everything is good,, every little thing helps, especially if its broken, Give it a pre trip inspection, check all the things you usually dont look at in a regular tune up,,, check your valve lash,, timing settings, look for vacuum leaks, and broken parts,, Id bet youll find something,,, ChadS

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