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Tractor Pulling Discussion Forum

For ChadS

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Hayfarmer

05-26-2005 21:39:51




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Followed your suggestions on my SMTA, PUt heavier spring in the governor and changed distributor advance springs to lightest ones in the chevy kit. Really had to stretch advance springs. Don"t have a dyno available but have been playing with timeing on distributor setting it to where it seems to sound best. Points have been reset and seem to be in good shape. Coil is stock 6 volt with resister ahead of it. It runs at about 2000 rpms no load. Plug wires seem to be good with good connections on both ends, plugs relatively new. When I hold the brakes and put on a load itdoes not run smooth. Approximately what advance should the distributor have as far as degrees at full throttle? I"m not trying for high RPMS but would like to be able to hold 1800 to 2000 under load. Any help would be appreciated.

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ChadS

05-27-2005 06:36:28




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 Re: For ChadS in reply to Hayfarmer, 05-26-2005 21:39:51  
The distributor advance timing is not very much on the M-450, the H's actually had the better distributors in them, the allow more full advance timing. it has more travel in the advance VS the M-450.Usually, when I do what you just did, you have sped up the responce time in both the carb, and ignition. Somewhere along the line, more modifications have to be done to compliment the changes you have done. Either its not getting enough fuel, or the coil is not hot enough to run that high of rpms. If, you can open up the throttle, and then open up the main load adjustment screw on the carb, and not make it smoke or run rich, you need to rejet it. You can also kinda test your carb and igntion by turning the distributor, so it labors while running, if it has a misfire anywhere,, it will do it then, it is just like being on a dyno, but dont get crazy by turning the distributor too far now!!! Just enough to make it sound like its under a load. Work that engine a little, then shut it down, and pull out the plugs, if they are whiteish, or lite colored, a bit more fuel is nessisary, if it has a stutter upon acceleration, its either carb, or ignition, 9 times out of 10 its the carb, but since your running a 6 volt igntion with a resistor, you may need a better coil. myabe step up to the electronic conversion, they make them in 6 and 12 volt, and postitve and negative ground systems. I had SMTA in the shop for a dyno session last week, the owner has had it for years, and said the best has tuned it, I found him 5 more HP by rejetting the carb, went from 57 to 62, then I added our fuel, got him 66 hp. Far as I know it was a 264 engine. So, there is potential there!! I set the timing on the dyno, at full load 540. Tuning it by ear,,, to describe how it runs after,,, at idle, it sounds like it laboring just a tad. Like a car with an auto tranny sitting in gear. Tuning it to book specs, and it will sound very very smooth at idle. Its not much on the timing, set it at high rpms, till it sounds the best, then idle it back down, you will have to change your idle adjustments,,, speed,, mixture,, to compensate for the changes from the timing. Also, double check all your bolt torques on the manifold, you may have a different problem than what your trying to chase down. when you speed up the responce times in the engine, you have to compensate to compliment the changes, and understand what the changes are doing,, faster, will mean that its not stock, and stock jets, coils, wont do the job any longer. if what you did, changed that engine that much, then there is alot of power hiding in your SMTA, and never knew it was there. Hunt down the miss, check plugs for color, check coil for misfires, and think about rejetting your carburator. it wont take much,, On the SMTA in the shop,, it went up 6 jet sizes or drill bits from the origianl jet, the same larger bit was used to drill out the bottom 2 holes in the metering stem to get more through the stem, that makes a world of difference, Hope this helps,, ChadS

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Hayfarmer

05-27-2005 07:15:43




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 Re: For ChadS in reply to ChadS, 05-27-2005 06:36:28  
Thanks for the help, have seen several of your posts in the past on governor and carburator adjustments and most have been printed and in a binder I keep, will go bach through those. This is a 281, I guess, 264 with 1/8 over sleeves and pistons but std pistons. Is it better to go from the sediment bowl to a fuel filter and solid line? Had trouble with a fuel filter in line as it didn't seem to fill up right.

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ChadS

05-29-2005 07:58:15




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 Re: For ChadS in reply to Hayfarmer, 05-27-2005 07:15:43  
LOL, Must be a thick binder then! Ive drilled the opening on the sediment bowls, where it goes up into the tank, but cant beat the flow from the straight line. The more angle you can put on the fuel line, the better the gravity feed will be. Ive seen what your talking about, with the small clear filters, they dont fill up all the way. gravity flow can feed a good 281, but you may wanna have a look at the sediment bowl to give it a bit more. Ive seen 320 cube engines drink the bowl clean dry and cant keep up with gravity feed gas systems. The best pump ive found to use on these carbs are the ones used in the IH 03 series combines. They are matched to the carb perfectly and are 12 volt. Most you find in the junk yards are still working, just have to clean them up a little. Chad

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