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ChadS
01-06-2005 08:12:47
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Re: Looking for Chada need info in reply to hogaman, 01-05-2005 15:35:40
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Scott, you can install the C-175 kit right in the 169. (ih 350) Start off with going through your carb, distributor,and governor. In the distributor, under the points plate, there is a mechanical advance mechanisim. There is 2 springs on the advance. After you make sure it is free, and working, and not sloppy from wear, replace the springs with a lighter set. I use the springs for the Chevy recurve kit for the HEI distribuotrs from any small block, or big block from 1975-86. There is 3 sets of springs in these kits, I use either the lightest, or second to lightest in the kit. They are color coded, and are marked on the box, for which one is which. That will help dramiticly for throttle response. the faster the distributor responds to rpm changes, the faster the engine will accelerate. Same goes for the governor. If your governor is in good shape mechanically, All you need to do is change out the governor spring to a stiffer one. I have governor springs for any IH H-450, from 10,20,30%rpm ranges. No higer than 30%, cause, I dont recommend reving up these old antiques, unless it has been rebuilt recently, and the Bolt torques are all up to snuff. The Old, stock spring, will actually shut down the carb, faster when the hard lug is applied, say like you get on a track, and you power stall the engine, the spring tension is weak, and the weights will shut down the carb faster, due to the low spring tension. It can cost you any where from a few inches, or,, a few feet. The spring, helps keep the engine rpms more steady under these conditions, at that rpm. You will increase throttle responce, and low end lugging power cause the carb will stay open longer, and the linkage will operate faster due to the increased spring tension. Now,, once youve done this, your ready to build the carb. Simply, if you start with the carb first, before you build the governor and the distributor, you will tear the carb apart 50 times fighting it due to the changing conditions from upgrades to the engine controls. the proper time to build the carb for your puller, is when you have the rest of the parts working, and tuned to your particular needs. Carbs are simple, I will assume you will be using a Super H-350 intake and carb, which is the bigger carb VS the H. All you will need to do is rejet the carb. Keep the stock, smaller venturi in it!! All the work is done to the bowl of the carb, so the throttle body can stay on the manifold for this upgrade. Remove the carb bowl, disassemble the metering stem, which is located in the center of the carb bowl, where the venturi sits. it is a 3/8 socket, and a flat tip screwdriver on the brass fitting on the outside of the bowl. I would blow the bowl out with air at this time, keep the passages good and clear. Now, all you need to do is go to the hardware,, to the drill bit isle, and find the drill bit that fits inside the main fuel jet. (which is located when you remove the main load adjustment screw) Once you find the drill bit, buy the drill bit that is 2-3 sizes bigger than your jet. Drill out the main jet to that size, and the 2 bottom holes of the brass metering stem wit hthe same drill bit. blow out the shavings very well, and reassemble the bowl, and install it on the throttle body. Now, you will have more fuel going into the carb. I find anywhere from 7-10 hp hiding there in a jet change, just depends on your engines compression. This should get you started on your way, will save you alot of time, and $$ and a heck of alot of frustration. A good C-169-175, tuned like this, can make 45-50 hp pretty easy if you have around 150 psi for a low side of the compression reading. There is a few more ideas I can share with you to pick up a few extra ponies, with out boring it,, but machine work is required on the head, and block deck. Hope this helps a bit more, if you have any questions, call me, at 574-893-7437, talk to me, or Earl, or email me, at [email protected]. ChadS
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