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Tractor Pulling Discussion Forum

JD G Puller

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Prairie Deere

11-25-2004 21:14:59




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Hi to all,
I have a 1950 JD G that I have tore down, was only going to clean the gas tank and got out of hand. I would like to build the engine for pulling some but don't need to much. The block is stock bore (6 1/8), I have a flat head and gas manifold along with a 51 carb. I would like to put the bore to it but I do not want to knock out water jackets for stroke. What can I do with a stock crank? What cam would work good? What bore? What can I do to the head and the carb. I have about $2000 or so that I can spend on the engine and I am just a retired hog farmer at 32. Thanks for any help.

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fifthgeardeere

11-27-2004 12:10:56




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 Re: JD G Puller in reply to Prairie Deere, 11-25-2004 21:14:59  
Did the tractor run before you tore it down? If the cam is good (not worn out), leave it alone and get your rocker arms shortened or buy some aluminum rockers from Murphy's Motor Service.

Are the pistons you have in good shape? If so, use them. If not, get some used aircraft pistons (6.125-0.020 over + 0.020 clearance should clean your cylinders up). Have the crank stroked (8.75 fits easy and 9.75 is common). Have your rods (if using your pistons) or the aircraft rods welded to 4010 rods.

Crank, rods, and cam clearancing-$1400
Aircraft pistons, rods, pins, and rings-$400
Rocker arms shortened-$100 or Murphy's-$300

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Prairie Deere

11-27-2004 20:48:33




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 Re: JD G Puller in reply to fifthgeardeere, 11-27-2004 12:10:56  
My tractor was running great when I tore it down. I just wanted to see what kind of shape it was in and I am glad that I did. As far as the cam I have not removed it yet to get a good look at it but will very soon. I like your ideas and would like to talk with you more some time if you don't mind to send me your number. Thanks Chad



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G/MAN

11-29-2004 07:33:28




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 Re: JD G Puller in reply to Prairie Deere, 11-27-2004 20:48:33  
If you're going to go as far as being able to pull the cam, get it reground with a performance grind. The cams weren't ground that accurately from the factory and are a compromise between performance and fuel economy, when clearly fuel ecnomy isn't a prime concern for pullers. For the $200 a regrind and refaced lifters will run, it's cheap insurance.



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Prairie Deere

11-29-2004 11:46:22




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 Re: JD G Puller in reply to G/MAN, 11-29-2004 07:33:28  
I am going to pull it anyway and I thought that it might need some work. What did you think about the bore, and other work on the engine?



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G/MAN

11-30-2004 16:05:53




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 Re: JD G Puller in reply to Prairie Deere, 11-29-2004 11:46:22  
Well, getting the crank stroked much at all is going to eat up a piece of that budget in a hurry. From everything I've read and heard, a set of good aluminum hi-comps (the oversize really doesn't matter much between .045, .090 and .125 as the displacement gain isn't that great - the higher compression makes the big power gain) and a good cold manifold are good for 50 horsepower or a little more in a good otherwise stock "G". After that, the sky is basically the limit in bores, strokes and horsepower. A common and relatively cheap budget "G" engine is having the rod journals offset ground down to 3.000 inches ("A" rod journal size) in order to gain a little stroke and be able to run inserted "A" rods, which are much more easily available and happen to be the same length with the same pin bore as a "G" rod. If you have a late "G" with inserted rods (that have regular bearing shells instead of poured babbit), that may not be an issue unless you want the cheap stroke. Milling the stock cyclone head down the eyebrows will gain you more compression and horsepower, or you could buy a flat head of an unstyled "G" and install it. But they're getting rare and are pricey, along with not being as strong for high compression engines. Doing some mild porting and polishing on the head and gasket-matching the intake, installing a free-flowing intake sytem (i.e. a K&N filter in place of the stock oil bath cleaner), getting the cam reground and all the other little tricks should put you in the 65 horsepower range or thereabouts. After that point, it all starts getting expensive in a hurry. The beauty is that your "G" should be a decent puller in stock form if in good shape and tuned up properly. Getting your tractor dialed in in terms of ballast and hooking the tires is the main thing. There are a bunch of guys on here that are WAY more knowledgeable than me about pulling "G"s, so you might consider reposting your question at the top of the board. I've just passed along what I've learned from quizzing some of them and listening when guys that know what they're talking about are talking.

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Prairie Deere

11-30-2004 21:55:22




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 Re: JD G Puller in reply to G/MAN, 11-30-2004 16:05:53  
It just so happens that this tractor has a flat head on it when I bought it some years ago. That comment about the journals has got me thinking alot. This engine stuff is all new to me but I have gained alot from this site and some other pullers that I have talked to. I just wanted to build as much of this engine myself if I could with out having it done. Thanks for all the help and my call on you agin.

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