Welded Sleeves

Thanks in advance.

Sleeves are cast iron. LA and Darton are both centrifugally cast ductile iron sleeves.

Brass welding is a safe option although mig is much faster.

He had a loose fit. If your sleeves are interferrance fit and you start welding you can imput to much heat to fast and crack a sleeve. It's my opinion his turned out just fine because of the loose fit on top. He said it was a slip fit so I took it to mean no interferrance. With a thick deck when you weld the sleeves can get quenched to fast and crack a sleeve. Preheat and post heat is a requirement.

Peening is a requirement that might not show its necessity until its been ran some or maybe you get by with luck if you don't. Get the entire peice up to at least 250 degrees before you start. Space heaters help and/or a rosebud. My opinion is to have someone start peening as you work your way across the block with the weld. Post heat it some to normalize and put it to bed in a blanket over night.

Welding the bottom is not necessary as there is a better way to deal with the bottom. You can emial me if interested. There are a couple other things that make the job go much better if you want my opinion.

Unless you get lucky and find a sleeve with a lip on top and still get you to the size bore you want a simple press fit would be difficult at best. Then you would have to machine the bottom of the sleeve so it has the correct interferance.
Also would need some sort of sealing method on the bottom weather it were O-rings or epoxy or a combination of concrete and some sort of sealer.

Then you have to problem with a lot of blocks that straight out of the field have already started splitting down the middle between each cyl. Sort of hard to keep a press fit when the block is changing all the time.

300 to 500 (hopefully a decent guess) but you would need to square things away with the shop because if the block is already bored all the way out then you have already missed out on an opritunity to make the bottom seal the best way.

I think you are missing the point on welding and I mean no disrespect by that. If you saw it then it might make a lot more sense. I can send a pic if it would help and there are others on here with their own pics.

IMHOfwiw.

Thanks for your response and no offense taken whatsoever. On our Farmall M's, we have always cut the bore out of the block then bored the top and bottom of the cylinder for the new sleeve making it a wet sleeve block. We have made the bottom a .005 interference fit and just locktite it which has always sealed. Haven't had one leak yet. Then we deck the block slightly to clean up the top and we run them that way. Thus far, unless we run significant compression (greater than 12:1) it holds up fine. If the compression is higher, the block seems to flex at the deck, seemingly due to the lack of structural strength left at the top of the deck, and we blow a head gasket... even with o-ring's. If I understand what you are saying, this is the problem you are solving (amongst others) by welding the sleeves in? Help me understand. If you can email pictures to help explain that would be wonderful. My email is [email protected].

Thanks in advance.