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Tractor Pulling Discussion Forum

Whatever..........

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Ohio M Puller

01-07-2004 04:42:48




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Well here we go again it appears I can't even give someone a phone number for a fuel tank supplier without it being wrong. Me personally I don't have all the money in the world so if I can save a dollar from a foe I will then spend more with a friend. Just me so if that is wrong, whatever..... .. As to Jared Peat I bought my motor with the understanding that it was 7.5 ran it liked it and then we heard "something" inside so we dropped the bottom out to inspect it. When we sent it out we were informed that it wasn't 7.5 but 7.75. So good for me I have more then what I was told. Got lucky like most of us when we pull. HA HA..... If you are looking for a perfessional engine builder call Gary Baker, it is amazing what he can do. Cause like I have tried to state MANY times on here I am just a hobby puller like most. I better state that Lemmons can do anyone a good job as well as Shipman and whoever else so it doesn't appear I am slamming anyone else. I am sure this will rub someone the wrong way so to them whatever..... .. Lastly for the light weight frontends, I have the means of making them and getting 12" rims and tires to help lower the nose. To those that I have bought them form me know exactly what I pay for the material and see I am not making a living off of them. However like I have told all the owners that have bought one if you can weld and feel as though you can trust your own welding go to it if not pay me cause I know ours will hold. Just like alot of things on the market if you want one buy one if not don't. It isn't like I am holding a gun to anyones head making them send me a check for one. So for the frontend discussion if you want one or the plans for how we build them contact me if not whatever..... ... Well I have to say thanks to ytmag for letting us have a great place like this to discuss topics.

Ohio M Puller

P.S. IH H PULLER, we are building Jimmey an M for next year, it should be entertaining evenings alot of Coors should be consumed, and a lot of laughs in the shop for a few months. Make sure you stop out.

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redneck puller

01-07-2004 17:40:52




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 Re: Whatever.......... in reply to Ohio M Puller, 01-07-2004 04:42:48  
everyone tells me that when the front comes up on the trtactor that you lose hitch hight but does it really matter because the front end is already up so what does this mean? i was also told that when the front end comes up that the carb gets all messed is this true? but can this be the opposite for the front end being lowered? any help would be nice haven't quit got all of it thanks



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Proredpuller

01-07-2004 08:25:29




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 Re: Whatever.......... in reply to Ohio M Puller, 01-07-2004 04:42:48  
Dear Ohio M Puller,
Excuse my slight deviation from this discussion, but do you make light weight front end's for H's too? I am building a new H and would be interested in discussing this with you. My email is [email protected]

Thanks in advance.



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Buzzman72

01-07-2004 06:58:05




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 Re: Whatever.......... in reply to Ohio M Puller, 01-07-2004 04:42:48  
I'm not meaning this to slam anyone, OK? I'm just trying to get an understanding of how this stuff works for pulling. But the way I understand physics, basically the tractor and the sled work together as a lever arrangement, to a degree...with the tractor's rear axle working as the fulcrum of the lever. Seems to me that, using the formula force times distance, that unless you're trying to lose enough weight to make a specific class, switching to a lightweight front end would work AGAINST you...and it would make NO sense at all if you turn around and hang a bracket and a bunch of weights on the front of the tractor.

I realize I don't know much about all this stuff, but maybe somebody could explain this to me where it makes some sense. It just seems like this goes against everything I ever learned. So what IS the deal?

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Chads

01-07-2004 07:45:42




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 Re: Re: Whatever.......... in reply to Buzzman72, 01-07-2004 06:58:05  
The way I see it, when you lighten the tractor, and allowd to use suitcase weights,, a light front end will help,, You can move more weight around on the brackets. Mostly on the nose. Removing 100lbs off the tractor, and moving out farther on the front bar will hold it down with more force. It is all in the balance of the frame, why most pullers need light parts. I have a problem running 3500 with the H, and the front pedistal is just about the only thing left I can swap out to move more weight around on the tractor. OMP would be my first and only choice to get a front end for my H.. If he says it won't break, I belive him,, Seen denny's front end bow and break, And besides,, where else do you know of any one else that is offering these kind of parts for sale? Pullers helping pullers is the name of this game, And those who share their info and technology are ok in my book!!! Well said OMP!!! Well written.. I can take those words to heart.. ChadS

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Dave

01-07-2004 07:43:03




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 Re: Re: Whatever.......... in reply to Buzzman72, 01-07-2004 06:58:05  
The reason for the lightweight front ends, besides "making" weight for a lighter class, is so that you have more available weight to move (from the front end to the back end or back end to front) for the different track conditions, hitch configurations, traction situations.

The reason that you want your front end weights as low as possible was explained very well on a post on the pulling board earlier. I'm sorry that I can't remember who did it, but he did a very good job. I'll try to give a condensed version of his explanation. If you draw an imaginary horizontal line through your tractor's rear axle (the pivot point of the fulcrum) to the front end, once the weight gets above this horizontal line, it gets easier to raise the weight the higher it gets, and the lower below the horizontal line, the harder it is to raise it. It's kind of like picking a 20# weight off of the floor with your straight arm, once you get it above your elbow, (pivot point), the easier it gets to lift it.

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Dave

01-07-2004 08:20:40




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 Re: Re: Re: Whatever.......... in reply to Dave, 01-07-2004 07:43:03  
After I posted I went back and re-read Buzzman's post. I've had this discussion many times with a good pulling friend and neither one has convinced the other that they are wrong in their argument yet! So here it goes..... .

If at the end of the pull, the front end is just "lightly" touching the ground, that to me is a perfectly weighted tractor, and it kept your hitch from going down.

In this example lets say that you have 700# of weight that you can move on your tractor, front end, middle, back, where ever you want to put it. If 200# will keep the front end down on the ground at the end of the pull, then you have 500# for the rear end to help you from spinning out your tires. Putting 500# in front and 200# on the rear will be wasting 300#. (the front end can only be held so close to the ground)

Yes, I've heard of the physics theory of weight is multiplied once for every 1' from the pivot point (200#, 8' from the rear axle =1600#, and I'm sure that it is accurate. But, I know that on my antique puller, I've never had the front tires spin out and stop my pull! You need to keep as much weight on the rear end as possible and still keep the front end down. That is why you need as much movable weight as possible for the different track conditions. It is a good idea to keep a journal describing the pull, track conditions, where you had the weights placed on tractor and the results of pull. When you are winning or losing by an inch, 100# placed in the correct position will make the differance between winning and losing. Good luck!!

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TimC

01-07-2004 11:25:04




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Whatever.......... in reply to Dave, 01-07-2004 08:20:40  
Here's another scenerio. What you are saying mostly applies to Traction pulling. Even though you have no applicable need to study SuperStock pulling which relates to Friction pulling I'm starting to believe there may be something to be learned. I've watched a friend of mine pull 5th gear in 4000 to 4500 pounds. Never when the tires were an inch off the ground did it pull exceptionally well. However when the fronts were floating 12 to 18 inches he pulled untill it called on the motor and he clutched it. Otherwise it just spun out. When you are blowing the tires off all the way down the track is it considered friction pulling where you shouldn't take hitch height into consideration?

An example that makes this ring true unless I am overlooking something. Two similar tractors make two totally differant pulls in 4500 lbs. Winning tractor takes it out the gate in 5th running light while the loosing tractor comes up 20 ft short pulling 4500 in 4th. The day before in practice both tractors weighted the same and in the same gear has exactly opsite results. Is open class pulling actually friction pulling?

This is probably off topic but maybe you guys could straighten me out on this. Thanks

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Ohio M Puller

01-07-2004 07:41:19




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 Re: Re: Whatever.......... in reply to Buzzman72, 01-07-2004 06:58:05  
You are right that doesn't make much sense to cut weight on the nose to just put it all back on with suitcase weights. However, when we build the frontends they are considerably shorter in height as well which "helps" conter the weight loss to the nose when it comes to the applied physics of drawing the nose up with the downward force of the sled. With the lower starting position of the nose the tractor "shouldn't" come up as soon as if you just dropped weight and keep the same nose height. Hope this helps some not a Physics Major just a speculator. Just my 2 cents and to all of those that think other wise WHATEVER..... .

Ohio M Puller

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Buzzman72

01-08-2004 06:23:11




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 Re: Re: Re: Whatever.......... in reply to Ohio M Puller, 01-07-2004 07:41:19  
I honestly appreciate all the detailed answers that my question has generated. I actually realized that the lowered pedestal would lower the center of gravity of the front end, but I guess I really wasn't thinking along the lines of moveable weight vs. track conditions.

Again, I appreciate some of you long-time pullers taking a few minutes to explain something to somebody new to the sport. Still trying to get the time-vs-money thing to work out on building my H...and when I do, I'll probably have a lot more questions. Right now, I'm just trying to understand what might benefit me and what might be money down a rathole...and please don't tell me to build a Deere, Case, Allis, Oliver, or Hart-Parr, 'cause I've already got the H...since it was Dad's, I'm not lookin to get rid of it anytime soon.

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RonJohn

01-07-2004 19:20:06




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 Re: Re: Re: Whatever.......... in reply to Ohio M Puller, 01-07-2004 07:41:19  
ohh ya, ohio m puller sure knows his stuff, some day he might even be able to beat that Big G from fremont ohio, keep that in mind mr. M puller, the green monster is waitin for ya to come callin with your physics and all that this comming spring
Sincerly, RonJohn from Norwalk, OH



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J. Banet NE-Ind

01-07-2004 06:12:33




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 Re: Whatever.......... in reply to Ohio M Puller, 01-07-2004 04:42:48  
Nice comeback. These are the kind of replies that are factual & don't attack someone. Shows class We need more of this on the board. Thanks



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TimC

01-07-2004 06:24:23




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 Re: Re: Whatever.......... in reply to J. Banet NE-Ind, 01-07-2004 06:12:33  
I second that notion.



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Red

01-07-2004 07:58:09




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 Re: Re: Re: Whatever.......... in reply to TimC, 01-07-2004 06:24:23  
It is all about movable weight. Take off as much stock weight as you can form the front and back and then put it all back on again in the form of movable weight. You need more rear weight on a sandy track then move some from the front to the rear. Need more weight up front on a hard biting track move it from rear to front. Sounds pointless to cut it off and then put it back on but the time that you need the movable weight and dont have it to move then curse it.

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Jeff

01-07-2004 15:20:33




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Whatever.......... in reply to Red, 01-07-2004 07:58:09  
There is alot of this stuff in pulling that doesn't really make alot os sense to average folk like me sometimes but it just seems to plain work. When i built my hitch I left it at 18 inches high even though we are allowed 20, my thinking was that 2 inches at the hitch will not make alot of difference and my stock hitch was 18 inches so why not.

I pulled one weekend with it set like that and did better but still not great. everyone said to raise it up so I did . The next weekend I won1st and 2 nd and a friend of mine made the 4th longest pull of the day on it! (got beat by 2 G's and a hot rod allis) I didn't figure that was too bad for a stock 88. That 2 inches of height made 25-35 feet difference. Doesn't look like it would but it did! The only bad thing is that now some of the folks are wanting to know what else I did to it :) I just say nothing and walk on, and why not? I really didn't do anything else.

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