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Tractor Pulling Discussion Forum

stroking a B

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jdtruble

12-19-2003 14:42:52




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looking to build a "B" into a puller wondering if any one has any good recomendations if to stroke,how much and how much to lengthen the rods,has any one done this to a "B" John Deere? any help would be helpfull.




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POOR LITTLE B

12-21-2003 17:41:56




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 Re: stroking a B in reply to jdtruble, 12-19-2003 14:42:52  
I HAVE A 41 B WITH PRESSED WHEELS AND 13.6 38S ALSO HAS FLATBACK, NO PTO, LIGHT FRONT HUBS AND THE FRAME THAT IS OPEN UNDERNEATH LIKE THE EARLY 40'S A'S. I WEIGH 140# AND THE THING BARELY MAKES THE 3000# CLASS WITH NO WEIGHTS. I CAN'T MAKE THE 3000# CLASS ON ALL SCALES. I JUST WANTED TO WARN YOU IT IS TOUGH TO GET YOU TRACTOR INTO THE LIGHT CLASS. MY B PULLS GREAT IN THE 3500# AND 4000# CLASS AS LONG AS RPMS ARE ENFORCED.

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jdtruble

12-23-2003 10:09:09




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 Re: Re: stroking a B in reply to POOR LITTLE B, 12-21-2003 17:41:56  
I have neice that weighs 100lbs to drive the tractor



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WTW

12-19-2003 16:58:11




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 Re: stroking a B in reply to jdtruble, 12-19-2003 14:42:52  
Have done many pulling engines for "B" John Deere's. To answer your question I need to ask a few first. What kind of class are you interested in pulling? And what are your limits if any? A model "A" or "G" is an easier tractor to stroke, because there is more room in them to do so. Large stroke "B's" won't come easy or cheap. If money is not an issue an 7" to an 8" stroke is very possible. The next thing is all the other things that you will need to know and do to get an efficient functioning pulling tractor engine, the stroke is just part of it. Sometime the biggest engine isn't the best, but for sure it takes a good one to be competitive. Rod lengths cannot be determined until you know other factors including: stroke, piston compression distance and cylinder travel room. Give me more information like year model of tractor, block casting number, cylinder head casting number and I will try to help some more. If you are going to use aftermarket parts like a power-block and or a Heisler head I need to know that to as both these item will effect combustion chamber size which plays into piston dimensions, cylinder lengths and rod lengths. DW

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jdtruble

12-19-2003 20:14:50




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 Re: Re: stroking a B in reply to WTW, 12-19-2003 16:58:11  
the tractor is a 1940 "B" the motor is stuck,I am going to ty and get it into the 3000,3500, and 4000 lb classes. I will be doing a complete tear down and would like some info on what would be the best route to go with this one. (I do have a 1938 "G" and I just purchased a 1948 "G" that will be the next project)I will stroke the "B" if it is a must but would prefer not to, would like any help possible to make this a good little puller,the tires are 13.6 X 38

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WTW

12-19-2003 22:06:01




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 Re: Re: Re: stroking a B in reply to jdtruble, 12-19-2003 20:14:50  
To make a "B" a "Good Puller" you will have to stroke it. I would go a minimum of 7". Use the next series of crankshaft as used in the 1941-1946 era model "B's". This crank has a larger journal (2.75") and can be down sized to throw the stroke more than the one you have with doing less build up welding to it. It will fit in your 1940 "B". It will require clearance grinding to cam and case and pockets holes through the back wall of crankcase. This is where you may want to decide to go bigger with the stroke as allot of the clearance work will be the same just more of it. I would also use a late model block verses the one you have as it will bolt to the case. The later block has a larger bore size (4 11/16" verses 4.5"). Bore the late model block 1/4" over. The later head will have to be used as the original head will not fit the later block. Do some oversize valve and port work to the later head and manifold. Use a late model "B" cam. You do have the right year model "B" as it is much lighter than the later tractors and it can be lightened up to go in these lighter tractors like you mentioned. If I knew what pistons you were going to use I could figure rod lengths for you. 4 7/8" size automotive (truck) pistons in an overbore size will be in the neighborhood for size. I will do some looking for piston options. This will give you some information to ponder on. If you have more questions post back. DW

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jdtruble

12-20-2003 04:53:25




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: stroking a B in reply to WTW, 12-19-2003 22:06:01  
What would be the most I could stroke it so i would not hve to put clearence hole in the crank case, and would that give me enough stroke? Do you know what casting numbers I would need to look for for the corrct block and head? then I can go shoping. would any of the newer blocks and heads work or should I look for the 41-46 era? as far as the pistons go I am looking for recomedations, I am not set on anything right know gathering info to see what road to go down.

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WTW

12-20-2003 06:24:07




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: stroking a B in reply to jdtruble, 12-20-2003 04:53:25  
You can squeeze a 6 3/4" in it without going through the back wall but requires some trick rods. The late block is casting number is B2500R. Used in model "B's" built between 1947 and 1952. Cam is out of same era of tractor casting number B2284R. There are three different heads that will work, casting number are B1784R, B2501R or B2871R. All these heads use the same valves. A 6 3/4" stroke will make a tough little tractor but notice I said little. It will be outgunned if you are planning on pulling against division three type tractors as it really won't have the power that most seem to have these days. It will on the other hand make enough power to be fairly competitive in a division two type class. A tractor with a 4 7/8" bore and a 6 3/4" stroke will yeild 252 cube. Not that big of a "B" for whats out there anymore. DW

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jd truble

12-21-2003 10:50:04




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: stroking a B in reply to WTW, 12-20-2003 06:24:07  
I have located the newer style block and head (from a 48)yesterday and have them in in the shop, to bore it to 4.875 what pistons would I use? and would I have to worry about the wall thickness? what should be done to the head. I do have a crank out of a 48 B, will that be a good one to use, or does someone have a stroked B crank that they want to sell, and a cam?



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WTW

12-21-2003 18:22:41




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: stroking a B in reply to jd truble, 12-21-2003 10:50:04  
The cam out of the 48 will work, the crankshaft will not as it will require to much work to get it to fit your older 1940 "B" and the original clutch pulley wont fit the later crank. Get the crank from a tractor built between 1941 and 1946. This crank has the same stock stroke as the late crank only it will work in the older tractor much easier and the original clutch pulley will fit it. I will do some studying to see what piston would work for you.

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JDGnut

12-20-2003 07:22:09




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: stroking a B in reply to WTW, 12-20-2003 06:24:07  
WTW... I know of a "Little B" that is not too much bigger than you are describing... And it pulls pretty dam good... even put it on a few RED tractors that graze this site.... HAHA.. Keep up the good work... JDGnut



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jJD B

12-20-2003 08:33:25




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: stroking a B in reply to JDGnut, 12-20-2003 07:22:09  
I am building a 3,000#, 314 cu. inch late model B. The strock will be 8".



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ChadS

12-20-2003 16:01:34




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: stroking a B in reply to jJD B, 12-20-2003 08:33:25  
You guys make sure you listen to Mr, Wickman,, he has 2 ultra tough JD B pullers.. Kicked my Butt this year!! He can build em right,, Hat's off to The Yellow Jacket and Double Trouble JD!!! He has came a long way in this dog eat dog world of pulling,, Thrills me to see one of the smallest tractors in pulling whip some butt!! ChadS



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WTW

12-20-2003 20:25:17




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: stroking a B in reply to ChadS, 12-20-2003 16:01:34  
Hey Chad, Easy on the "Mr." stuff you are starting to make me feel like the lion on the Wizard Of Oz, and it starting to bother me too so just knock it off OK. Thanks for the complement though. Dave W.



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ChadS

12-21-2003 03:54:37




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: stroking a in reply to WTW, 12-20-2003 20:25:17  
Sorry Dave



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jdtruble

12-21-2003 11:31:20




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: stroki in reply to ChadS, 12-21-2003 03:54:37  
I have located the newer style block and head (from a 48)yesterday and have them in in the shop, to bore it to 4.875 what pistons would I use? and would I have to worry about the wall thickness? what should be done to the head. I do have a crank out of a 48 B, will that be a good one to use, or does someone have a stroked B crank that they want to sell, and a cam?



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JOHN BRAWNER

12-22-2003 20:20:48




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: st in reply to jdtruble, 12-21-2003 11:31:20  
I HAVE THAT CAM YOUR LOOKING FOR!JOHN WTW IF YOU SEE THIS E-MAIL ME,THANKS JOHN



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