Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Attention Forum Users: On the 28th of December 2023 at 9:00am Central Time, we will be taking the forums down for maintenance while we prepare the new forums for your use. Please click here for more information.

Tractor Pulling Discussion Forum

sealing cylinder sleeves

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
zig

08-05-2003 17:31:45




Report to Moderator

what is agood sealer to seal sleeves in oliver 88 and has any body running asolid block and do you have cooling problems




[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
TimC

08-05-2003 20:48:06




Report to Moderator
 Re: sealing cylinder sleeves in reply to zig, 08-05-2003 17:31:45  
In the next day or so I'll post a pick on brazing in the cyls on the top side. The bottom needs an epoxy before the sleeves are driven in then maybe and inch of hard block. This is for supporting the block when there is not much left between the cyls. The sleeve should have a .003 thousands interferance. Freeze the sleeves and they will go in with some elbow grease. There should be a step in the sleeve also that connects with the bottom of the block's step left by the boring bar.

They get hot if filled to the top. You can run them but back to back pulls on a long track are rough. If you get in a pull off on the first class you might be done for the day. You will also need an electric water pump and elctric fan if you want to make several pulls.

Its all my opinion so take it with a grain of salt.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
LW

08-06-2003 11:25:56




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: sealing cylinder sleeves in reply to TimC, 08-05-2003 20:48:06  
.003 entirely to much! .0015max I would go for .001,.003 interference would buckle a thin wall sleeve, hard block filler won't stop water it may slow it up, silicone would be better and will stay pliable and will move with the expansion and contaction.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
TimC

08-06-2003 12:51:56




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Re: sealing cylinder sleeves in reply to LW, 08-06-2003 11:25:56  
Define thin wall sleeve, then we can get on the same page. If .003 is to much interferance then 275 lbs compression and up is going to egg shape the cyls anyway. All things have to be taken into consideration



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
LW

08-06-2003 17:46:25




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Re: Re: sealing cylinder sleeves in reply to TimC, 08-06-2003 12:51:56  
.250 wall or less, mechanical interference is a much greater force than that of 275lbs of cyl pressure that is uniform, do you know what a .125 wall thickness of plain gray cast iron take from cyl. press. about 1,600 psi but mechanical forces will excede that very quickly like piston thrust, too much press on a sleeve etc. But do what ever you want to , I am just a dumb machinist.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
TimC

08-07-2003 06:27:47




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: sealing cylinder sleeves in reply to LW, 08-06-2003 17:46:25  
Well, you got me. .125 is a little lean. LA sleeve does not recommend wet sleeves less than .150. Recommended interfer fit is recommended at .0025. I was a half thousands off. I stand corrected.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
JIm F.

08-06-2003 05:22:56




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: sealing cylinder sleeves in reply to TimC, 08-05-2003 20:48:06  
The Oliver engines have wet sleeves and basically fall into place. I have heard guys pouring in "Dry Block" about half way up the sleeves to seal them. This of course is done after the sleeves are installed, using 1/2 bolts and washers to hold the sleeves in place. Then turn the block upside down and pouring it in. Hope this helps, I have not done this personnally... yet.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
TimC

08-06-2003 06:24:22




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Re: sealing cylinder sleeves in reply to JIm F., 08-06-2003 05:22:56  
This could work if the you are not running a very big bore. You still run the risk of spliting down the middle of the block when the cement between the cyls (1/4 to 3/8 inch thick) crack due to heat. You also have gravity and moisture working against you. The concrete at the bottom of the block helps seal the water and doesn't absorb as much heat because the high cyl pressure and heat is localized at the top of the cyl.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy