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I agree with Rod's total assessment taking into account what safety equipment you have. For me the acrylic urethane is "the" paint for equipment. It has superior durability and the high gloss i like. I painted a construction trailer in school bus yellow with urethane. The gloss is there even in the heavy yellow pigment. What a yellow submarine scene! Now the owner has a tough time when those chain binders have to be hooked and wants the pockets sprayed with tinted yellow bedliner. CC/BC is a great looking paint but not as durable. That would be my choice for a car that is garaged and as Rod pointed out it's a better look with metallics. Metal treatments like picklex and rust removers that leave a zinc phosphate coating enhance primer adhesion to bare metal. Another product highly regarded by bridge maintaince and salt water ship painters for rust that can't be removed is a converter called Ospho. I haven't used it yet, but have heard enough good things I'm going to try it out on an undercarriage. I would use Oxisolv or picklex on all bare metal, than epoxy primer. That's not everyone's choice some feel the etch primers are enough. I feel an etch primer would be good enough for something like a disc or plow as it will be scratched again no matter what.
I don't like the regular etch, i like to etch with a rust remover like oxisolv or picklex, both will prevent rerust on metal until paint as long as it's inside. Regardless of what paint you choose, the epoxy primer is the best protection and most important component of a durable paint job. Due to its chemical makeup it waterproofs metal by the way the individual molecules lay on top of each other like overlapping "scales". Other primers are porous and will allow water through their membranes, if the top coat is scratched rust can form under regular primers but not epoxy. The best thing for metal since paint itself was invented. For success you need adhesion. Follow the recoat times to the letter, you want the paint to chemical bond to each layer and this only happens within the time window of the recoat time. Butch recently had a good post on mechanical and chemical bond. Those brush marks and scratches are a matter of patience and sanding the surfacer, that part of the job is the same. Just follow the data sheet for the recommended paper. PPG data sheets are online, i haven't mastered adding links like Rod. Now finer grits like 600 are available at ace hardware, you used to have to get them at a paint supplier. I think any of the paint lines put out by Dupont, PPG or Martin Senor (Napa) are great choices. I switched to PPG omni after our Napa became a Carquest. I had excellant results with martin senor's euraglow urethane. Dupont is too far away but i have seen great paint jobs with there products at the shows. Omni MTK urethane is $75 a gallon, with hardner and reducer about $110 a gallon. If your hvlp gun is a gravity feed, that will take a little getting used to compared to the conventional gun you probably used in school. You can't tip a full cup without the dribbles and you can't shoot upside down without a cup liner of some sort. Paint the hood and top surfaces when the cup is half full if you don't have a liner. Also if you don't have a holder or hook for it--get one. It's easy to lose a cup of expensive paint if the gun tips when filling the cup on a makeshift holder. What a great name for a tractor...FARMALL--marketing genius. Good luck, post the results.
Boss
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Rod
. Great times though, weren't they?