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Clear coating, a couple of questions...

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Karl Bader

11-11-2002 03:56:36




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Can I clear coat over John Deere Classic Green Paint? If so what do I use? Also how long do I wait after painting to clearcoat?

Thanks,

Karl




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Clooney

11-12-2002 16:51:52




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 Re: Clear coating, a couple of questions... in reply to Karl Bader, 11-11-2002 03:56:36  
Karl, the answer is a maybe. Depending on the type of clear you want to use. Deere enamel is a synthetic enamel & doesn't take kindly to urethane clear over it. I have clear coated Deere synthetics but have also had problems doing it.
~If you have a real nice paint job now you might be real unhappy if you clear it & it lifts or checks.
~The safest would be to use a synthetic clear but that won't gain you much as it is still pretty soft & scratches easily. ~If you are willing to risk a paint problem or need to wet sand previous problems out [Deere synthetics don't wet sand & come back to a good shine like acrylic enamel],, I will share what I have learned [the hard way]..
~First the Deere synthetic paint needs to dry for about 3 weeks or more, more is better, [if you didn't use hardener in the Deere paint it might not ever be hard enough to hold urethane clear], then use nothing coarser than 1000 grit paper to wet sand [DO NOT use a scotch pad as it opens the base paint up too deep], after wet sanding put it in the sun for a day or so to let as much of the trapped reducer evaporate off as possible, then after wiping down, shoot a fairly thin first coat of urethane clear & let flash off to the maximum allowed [don't rush the second coat], then shoot a fairly thin second coat & let it flash for about as long as allowed [if the clear doesn't react with the base coat at this stage it will probably be good to go], then lay on a fairly heavy 3rd coat & that should be it. If you plan on wet sanding the finished project then a 4th coat would be a good idea so you don't break through when sanding. Don't rush the follow up coats as you want the solvent to evaporate off & not get trapped under the clear. ~I have a couple of urethane clear coats over Deere paint going on 3 years now & it is holding up good even after being in 100° direct sun. I have also had my share of problems trying to get a clear coat over Deere synthetic enamel. You will be hard pressed to find any paint manufacturer that will recommend their urethane clear over synthetic enamel & I agree. I have made it work but not without a fight ..

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Karl Bader

11-12-2002 20:33:10




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 Re: Re: Clear coating, a couple of questions... in reply to Clooney, 11-12-2002 16:51:52  
So pretty much it is not the greatest idea to clear-coat? I am ok with this I am just looking for the best for my tractor! lol The paint job I did looks EXCELLANT and I am very happy with it. It was my first time with a spray gun (look out!) and honestly it looks very professional. So is there a certain way I should care for my paint job then? Like a car, can I wax the finish then instead of the clearcoat to give it a good shine and protect it from the elements of rain and sun?

Thanks,

Karl

Thanks,

Karl

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Jerry B

11-13-2002 07:06:17




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 Re: Re: Re: Clear coating, a couple of questions... in reply to Karl Bader, 11-12-2002 20:33:10  
If your tractor is already painted and the job looks good, then give up any idea of shooting clear over it.



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Jerry B

11-12-2002 09:19:45




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 Re: Clear coating, a couple of questions... in reply to Karl Bader, 11-11-2002 03:56:36  
You can clear coat almost any paint. The only problem you have is whether or not the clear will lift the color coat.

When in doubt, most paintmen will wait until the color coat is dry and then spray the clear over it. This works BUT there is a problem doing it this way. The color will not be wet and sticky and therefore the clear may not adhere properly. Don't beleive me? Come and look at my 83 Plymouth that was painted professionaly using this wait and let it dry approach. It looks like a snake sheading it's skin.

The best approach is to determine EXACTLY the type of paint you are going to use. Most likely you are going to use an acrylic enamel if you use John Deere brand paint. Dupont has a clear designed for acrylic enamel but they recommend using a certain binder designed for enamel that is going to be clear coated.

If you go and talk to the Dupont rep, he can give you recomendations as to what your options are. I would be willing to say they are going to be limited to 7600s or 7500s clear.

If I were doing this, I would experiment a little. Try painting a scrap piece and then allow it to dry about 30-45 minutes. Spray a medium wet coat of clear. Let set for about 30 to 45 minutes to tack up good and spray the second coat. Let this dry 24 hours and see if this process works without lifting the color coat.

The idea here is to get good liquid adhesion without attacking the lower levels of color and causing them to turn loose from the primer. This is called lifting and is to be avoided at all costs.

Perhaps the best solution is to have the paint mixed at your paint supplier and tell him you are going to clear coat. He can adjust the formula as needed to accommodate the clear. The clear he will provide will be the best you can get for the base color you are using.

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