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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Bought some better primer today

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Scott1ky

05-02-2007 18:16:16




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Hello again,
I called my local automotive paint dealer today and told them my story on how I've been stripping parts one at a time and priming them as I go. I told them about my mistake of buying Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer and that I learned it is not good to use this primer on clean metal, or if you want to top coat with automotive quality acrylic enamel.

I still wanted to find an aerosol primer because of cleaning, stripping and sanding each part one at a time as my work schedule and time permits. They suggested Plastic Kote automotive sandable lacquer primer. They said it is compatible with enamels and acrylic enamel automotive paints.

SO Now I am going to have to sand down the rustoleum and cover with the new primer. My new question for you guys is, does ALL of the rustoleum primer need to be off (down to the bare metal again) for the new primer to cover and seal it? Or can you scuff/sand it really good and smooth and cover? I know there is some rule about painting enamel over lacquer but not lacquer over enamel (or something like that?) Hope this stuff is better primer.

I think I'm going to go with PPG one stage paint for the sheet metal.. I may still go with it for the cast iron or maybe alkyd enamel for the cast.

Thanks, Scott

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circus

05-03-2007 07:10:59




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 Re: Bought some better primer today in reply to Scott1ky, 05-02-2007 18:16:16  
Start over. Use only one paint type. Throw the spray bombs in the trash. Determine the final finish then use the correct undercoats from the tech sheet for that paint. Primer surfacers (sandable primer)(filler) give a smooth surface, less adhesion and must be sanded. Simple



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john_bud

05-02-2007 19:26:17




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 Re: Bought some better primer today in reply to Scott1ky, 05-02-2007 18:16:16  
If you can't find the pickle stuff, there are other products that do the same thing. One that I have been using is called "Must for Rust". It's been holding up well on bare blasted metal while I am waiting (starting the 3rd week of waiting for an in stock primer....). No surface rust forming and it's been humid and the shop is COLD.

jb



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CNKS

05-02-2007 19:33:33




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 Re: Bought some better primer today in reply to john_bud, 05-02-2007 19:26:17  
I consider Picklex and Must For Rust (Home Depot) equivalent, but that is merely an observation. I use both.



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Scott1ky

05-02-2007 19:42:28




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 Re: Bought some better primer today in reply to CNKS, 05-02-2007 19:33:33  
I have the Must for Rust (phosphoric acid) I use it if I'm not going to be able to prime an item for a few days/weeks.



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CNKS

05-03-2007 17:17:38




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 Re: Bought some better primer today in reply to Scott1ky, 05-02-2007 19:42:28  
If you use Picklex, etc, you don't need the spray can stuff, you can wait and use the real thing -- you are gaining nothing by using the spray cans, in fact if you use acrylic enamel or urethane, you are using an inferior product under good paint. If you insist on priming right away and don't want to get your spray guns dirty for a few seconds of painting, use epoxy in a Preval sprayer as Rod(NH) suggests. Again, lacquer primers do not adhere well to the surface.

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CNKS

05-02-2007 19:01:25




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 Re: Bought some better primer today in reply to Scott1ky, 05-02-2007 18:16:16  
I only use rattle can primer/paint on small parts that are in out of the way places. Primer or paint, i would not use it on major parts. The best primer is epoxy primer from a spray gun. If you do not want to do that use a product such as Picklex 20, it will prevent rusting for months if kept inside and is easier to use than spray cans. Then when you are ready to paint, scuff with a scotchbrite pad and clean with a wax and grease remover, prime with epoxy and paint. Also, if you live in a relatively dry climate, you don't need to do anything. In western Kansas, I can leave bare metal inside with no treatment for months. Any small amount of surface rust that appears is easily removed by sanding. You CANNOT do that in a humid climate. As to the sandable laquer primer, yes you can put about anything over it, but it does not adhere to the metal anyway near as good as epoxy, even if applied with a spray gun. If you do use it, remove all the old primer. If that is too much sanding, strip it with chemical stripper, it will come right off.

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