Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

CNKS dust problem

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
jeremy in NE

12-24-2006 21:21:51




Report to Moderator

Just thought I'd give you my 2 cents. When I started in the bodyshop I had problems with dust in my paint, but the other guy could do a whole car with just a few specks of dirt in it. So I started watching him closer. He would start the booth after all parts were in place and then spend another 10 minutes blowing and wiping. Wipe everything down with wax and grease, even the air hose. He would then use a tack rag on everything and than spray the antistatic stuff on everything including himself. He made sure that everything was extremely clean before spraying. And if he did get a piece of dirt or lint he would pick it out instantly. Another thing that you probably alresdy due is use a strainer when putting in the paint gun. As far as the paint goes the bc/cc system is really easy for sanding and buffing compared to single stage but it is more coats to put on and more chances for dirt or lint. Hope you can figure out the source of the lint, cause there aint nothing worse than spending hours sanding and prepping just to come out with a sandpaper finish. Good luck to ya

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
tommyw-5088

12-30-2006 16:45:32




Report to Moderator
 Re: CNKS dust problem in reply to jeremy in NE, 12-24-2006 21:21:51  
i agree on the blowing and cleaning .i do that too i also learned that from another painter at the body shop also . ill take yall through my process .after im finished sanding i wash everything off very good .let dry and start blowing stuff off ,wipe with a rag with laquer thinner wet and follow with a clean rag .i then blow off some more and mix my paint .i put my paint in the gun and run a tack rag over everything right before i spray . i have supplied air so i dont need much air movement ,i have a small 12" fan taking the overspray out . air movement is your enemy painting unless you have a good booth . there seems to be mixed feelings on wetting the floor ,i do wet the floor every time .

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
CNKS

12-27-2006 12:53:55




Report to Moderator
 Re: CNKS dust problem in reply to jeremy in NE, 12-24-2006 21:21:51  
Thanks, I think I have done all your suggestions, except for the antistatic part. I haven't spent 10 minutes inside the booth blowing and wiping, but I do clean everything off good and and have started the fans first, then blow with an air hose, then use a tack rag. The air is run through 2 filters plus the bulb on the gun. I am positive it is not the air supply, because I tried spray cans -- same thing. The problem is definitely lint, not soil type dust. The tables I paint on are grounded by rebar into at least 2 feet of soil under the concrete. Going to try the antistatic stuff next.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Derbynut

12-24-2006 22:24:09




Report to Moderator
 Re: CNKS dust problem in reply to jeremy in NE, 12-24-2006 21:21:51  
Sometimes if static is the cause make sure what you are painting is grounded. On a car it can be as simple as throwing a log chain over the axle housing and laying it on the floor. On a tractor you may have to get more creative. If you are already on metal jackstands you have that issue already covered. Your spray method has TONS to do with dust and dirt in the paint. Pay attention to where your overspray is going at all times. If you're not aware you can easily be laying overspray directy on already sprayed paint. If you are using a clear coat (which I won't do on an antique tractor because they stand out as being incorrect) this is a much greater issue as clear drys and turns to dust in the air just inshes from your spray gun. Often dust and dirt in paint is simply dry clear coat.I imagine you have some type of exhaust fan so always try to spray toward the exhaust. No matter where you are spraying you can turn your rist on a slight angle so you are blowing your overspray toward the fan to help it exit the spray area. Another HUGE help is use a gravity feed gun, an HVLP(High Volume Low Pressure)gun. You will use a much lower air pressure making far less overspray and a side benifit is you will use approximately 30% less paint saving a few dollars.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy