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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

CNKS - POR Patch

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Rod (NH)

10-31-2006 16:44:12




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Re: POR Patch. It is very hard and sands with difficulty, especially by hand. It is tough on sandpaper when used under power. Click on thumbnail below. The top picture is the tank view that I had posted previously showing the pit and pinhole situation. The middle picture is after the POR Patch has been applied. The bottom picture is after some partial sanding with a 220 grit, 2 inch dia disc in an RO sander. It was smooth enough so there wasn't much sanding required but even before the small sanded area shown was completed, the disc was shot. Not clogged up in any way - just worn out. And it was a good quality 3M disc. I think it's going to take at least 3 - 2 inch discs to complete the sanding of that approximate 5x6 inch total area.

third party image

The POR Patch comes out of the tube a little more liquid than toothpaste, but doesn't flow by itself. It does spread very, very easily however. Better than polyester finishing putty. Sort of like spreading paint around. I used a 2 inch plastic spreader normally used with polyester filler. I don't know if it has some type of "wetting" agent in it but it seems like it does. Very similar to the ease with which the POR15 paint brushes on.

I wouldn't want to use the stuff in an area that required much hand sanding. I do think it would be a good choice for those pit situations where space is available for power sanding and where it is not possible or practical to get all the rust out of the bottom of the pits. Just don't put on more than is necessary and have plenty of good sandpaper available.

Rod

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CNKS

10-31-2006 17:17:41




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 Re: CNKS - POR Patch in reply to Rod (NH), 10-31-2006 16:44:12  
Thanks for the info. JB weld is hard to sand, but part of that is because I don't get it on smooth, and have a lot to sand off. It doesn't spread very well. POR Patch might be harder to sand, but if it goes on smooth, it might not require any more sanding in the long run -- I don't have any thing to use it on now, but I might try it sometime on a small area, nothing to lose.



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CNKS

10-31-2006 17:22:21




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 Re: CNKS - POR Patch in reply to CNKS, 10-31-2006 17:17:41  
Forgot to mention, I usually sand JB weld with 80 or 100 grit, depending on size, and usually no finer than 100. I would hate to sand JB weld with 220. Then I rely on body filler to take care of the rest, then prime and paint.



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Rod (NH)

10-31-2006 20:10:10




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 Re: CNKS - POR Patch in reply to CNKS, 10-31-2006 17:22:21  
I normally use 80 grit on any polyester filler or finishing putty. With this tank however, I'm not planning on using a surfacer. Just wire brushing, Picklex, epoxy and topcoat and would like to avoid obvious sandscratches. Of course 90% of the area that I put the POR Patch on doesn't show anyway since it's covered by the supporting saddle. So I may just use the 220 around the outer edges and forget the middle altogether. It's smooth enough w/o sanding to not affect how the tank settles into the saddle.

BTW, on the Picklex20: I am not finding that Picklex turns any rust black. I am not wiping it off. I am applying it by brush, letting it set a while and then rebrushing the area with the same brush. I am only wiping up anything that puddles noticeably in low spots or crannies - an obvious "excess". No effort to wipe completely dry at all. That seems to be in accordance with the instructions for heavily rusted surfaces - but "excess" isn't defined and is left to the user to determine. Of course I may not be interpreting the instructions correctly. I let it dry overnight. It is completely dry the next day. Not sticky or anything like that. But nothing has turned black. Maybe a "richer", darker shade of brown but definitely not black. It seems to leave a hard, somewhat glossy surface that wasn't there before. I never noticed that type of gloss when I used Picklex before to preserve a non-rusty, sandblasted surface before priming. But I may have made an effort to wipe more of it off then. I can't remember. They do seem to put more emphasis on the wiping in such an instance. I was concerned with epoxy adhesion to that gloss so I have been scuffing it with a Scotch-Brite pad. It seems to scuff well and it makes me feel a little better. Not that much of the white powdery residue either, although there is some on a spotty basis - mostly where I had to heat the metal (about 1/8" thick) to beat back dents from thrown rocks. This is the first project I have used the Picklex on in this fashion. I guess I was expecting more of a noticeable "conversion" effect than I seem to be getting. It appears more like a clear encapsulator than a converter. Maybe I'm not using it properly. I don't know. We'll see if the paint falls off or if any rust bubbles up under it in a year or two.

Rod

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CNKS

11-01-2006 18:47:09




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 Re: CNKS - POR Patch in reply to Rod (NH), 10-31-2006 20:10:10  
I don't see much black with Picklex, I do see a little. In my opinion, the white residue is caused as much by an "unclean" surface as it is by whatever conversion it does. For example used as a protectant on bare (no rust) clean sheet metal, it only leaves a slight white residue, most of which can be and is removed with a scotchbrite pad before painting. Conversely, on cast, although I have made every effort to clean the surface, after it dries it's almost like it's painted with white paint, due to the pourous nature of the cast and the near impossibility of getting it squeaky clean. I don't think I have ever used it on a pitted, noncast piece as you have. That may explain the lack of white residue. To be honest, I don't pay any attention to the instructions when I use it. I apply it with the squirt bottle, and spread is with a brush. If I think there is still excess I wipe the excess off with a rag. I have seen the shiny surface you mention if I don't wipe it all off. I am mostly using it now only for pieces I don't wish to sandblast and can't access with a wire brush. This is usually the hidden from view areas of castings that I want to paint but could probably ignore because they can't be seen until I take the part off again. There it gets applied heavily and left. I usually can't get full coverage with paint in those areas anyway.

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