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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Brush painting and a few other questions.

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JayWalt

09-24-2006 21:05:30




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Ok, I now know after buying my BPS paint and primer, I probably made a mistake, but I lost the receipt and just want to sand and paint the tin and a few other parts on the tractor that have the most rust on it to help keep it from turning into a rustbucket. Here's a few questions...

I'd like to brush on the paint. The cast parts should accept it pretty well, but what about the sheet metal? Will I have brush marks? Part of the reason I dont want to spray is I'm doing the parts at different times, so cleaning the gun every time will be a PITA.
Hardener? What's the point and why doesn't the label say to use it? Wouldnt harder paint lead to more chips?
What about fasteners? Do people paint them before, I would think wrenching on them afterpainting them would kill the paintjob on them? But painting after installation would make disassembly a disaster...
On most cars, rust forms mainly from around boltholes or penetrated by hardware areas... Do people use nylon washers or soemthing on the non load bearing (like hoods, dashes and so on) to help prevent this? I'm more concerned about rusting then I am about how shiny or good the paint looks, altho I dont want the tractor to be pink in a year. It will be garage stored, so fading should be kept to a minimum.

Idealy if I was rich and had all the time in the world, I would have a bigger shop with ac/heat and do a full restore, but I have to be reaslistic here..

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rustyj14

10-12-2006 07:34:52




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 Re: Brush painting and a few other questions. in reply to JayWalt, 09-24-2006 21:05:30  
In the auto body shop trade, when we had parts to reassemble, with bolts, we'd sand and paint around the bolt holes a bit, say several inches, allow it to dry, then reassemble everything tightly. Using enamel reducer or an equivalent, we'd then wash off any paint still showing, and when all was ready, we'd paint the whole job. That way, the bolt heads got painted, and the part underneath the bolts were painted too!

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JayWalt

09-26-2006 23:26:15




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 Re: Brush painting and a few other questions. in reply to JayWalt, 09-24-2006 21:05:30  
Thanks for the replies guys. I have a spray gun, well its my dads, he is a packrat and getting him to find it is literally like finding a needle in a haystack. Another reason is overspray on everything in the garage would make dad a little mad...
I may try coaxing him to find the gun and hope for a nice day next spring to do the paintng.
This is a stupid question, where/what kind of hardener do i get for the bps? I'm assuming the primer doesnt need a hardener?
I only plan on painting the tin, dash, rear fenders and the loader.0

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Rod (NH)

09-27-2006 07:49:31




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 Re: Brush painting and a few other questions. in reply to JayWalt, 09-26-2006 23:26:15  
Hi Jay,

You should follow the specific instructions on the can label. Please, before you make a decision on using any hardener, do a search in this forum on "isocyanates" (w/o the quotes) and inform yourself of the safety issues when using such additives. It's your choice to proceed but at least you should be aware up front. You may be getting into more than you bargained for with spray application using specialized additives not called for by the manufacturer of the paint. Personally, I think you should stick with your original thought of brush application and approach a spraying effort slowly with a lot of practice on something other than your tractor.

third party image Rod

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JayWalt

09-27-2006 19:35:04




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 Re: Brush painting and a few other questions. in reply to Rod (NH), 09-27-2006 07:49:31  
I'm not afraid of the funes, it will be done outdoors. Nor do I care much about the final appearnace, anything is better then whats on it now (ALOT of rust!!).



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CNKS

09-29-2006 09:20:55




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 Re: Brush painting and a few other questions. in reply to JayWalt, 09-27-2006 19:35:04  
If you are not concerned about the fumes, you should be, inside or outside. In that case you better skip the hardener.



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JayWalt

09-29-2006 20:14:00




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 Re: Brush painting and a few other questions. in reply to CNKS, 09-29-2006 09:20:55  
I mean im doing it outdoors, so fumes arent a concern as there is adequate ventillation. I did parts of the hitch brushing.
When I do the tin I will spray with hardener.



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CNKS

09-30-2006 18:09:48




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 Re: Brush painting and a few other questions. in reply to JayWalt, 09-29-2006 20:14:00  
Inside or outside iso's are dangerous. With no wind you are in the stuff. With wind the stuff usually swirls around you.



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JayWalt

10-03-2006 21:17:55




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 Re: Brush painting and a few other questions. in reply to CNKS, 09-30-2006 18:09:48  
Well short of a paint booth, Outside with a fairly steady gentle breeze is about the safest, especially with an activated carbon mask. My 2 options are inside and out, and inside is just too dangerous, my dad smokes everywhere, the garage going boom woulldnt make anyone happy, the concentration of funes wouldnt be healthy, and the overspray on everything isnt a nice idea either...
I did get some guns I might try out next spring...

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Rod (NH)

09-30-2006 20:01:22




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 Re: Brush painting and a few other questions. in reply to CNKS, 09-30-2006 18:09:48  
You're correct. The worst overspray that I have ever encountered in my breathing zone was when painting outside in that uncontrolled and unpredictable "adequate ventilation".



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souNdguy

09-26-2006 10:12:12




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 Re: Brush painting and a few other questions. in reply to JayWalt, 09-24-2006 21:05:30  
Red gave you good advice.

Brush painting a tractor when you have a paint gun available is like tieing a bandanna around your fore-head, rambo style, and going out into the woods and trying to take down a deer with a bowie knife to put dinner on the table, when you have a box of shells & 30-06 with a scope sittin' in the back window of your truck.

Cleaning? big deal.. what's a cup of mineral spirits and some naptha?

If you are looking for short cuts.. paint it all with spray bombs when it is 100% assembled... It's likely to look better with the spray bombs and some masking take and painters paper, vs brush painting it... and no paint brushes to clean.. since cleaning seems to bother you.

The bps paint, with hardner is economy.. but is better than a spray bomb.. etc.

I've got quite a few tractors with bps paint on them, and with minimum care, they are holding up fine. I define minimum care as having them parked out of direct sun and rain.. but not specifically garaged. Tarp canopies work fine... I'd want -any- tractor to be out o fthe rain / sun.. just painted or not.

For what it's worth, the seemingly micro-thin OEM paint on my 2002 NH looks worse than any of the tractors I've painted..

Soundguy

Soundguy

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Red Ford

09-25-2006 08:27:37




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 Re: Brush painting and a few other questions. in reply to JayWalt, 09-24-2006 21:05:30  
- With a slow drying enamel, a good brush, medium heavy application, and the right technique, you can minimize the brush marks on the sheet metal. Always work from wet paint to dry. If you try to go back to, or continue from, paint that has had any time to dry, it will show. On big pieces that means you will need to work quickly.

- You apparently already have a spray gun. Opting to brush instead of spray just so you don"t have to clean the gun a few extra times doesn"t make sense to me, but it"s your choice.

- Hardener should be called toughener. If your paint is compatible with hardener it will make it more chip and chemical resistant.

- Definitely finish paint the fasteners in place. And just as a point of reference, that"s how they were done originally. Anytime you work on it work on it you will obviously have some touch-up to do when it"s back together. Spray painting the fasteners in place often causes runs. Depending on your paint either; prime them and apply a light coat of color before installation, or spot them in with a brush after installation but before spraying.

- The best option is to, prior to assembly, cut-in(pre-paint) areas around bolt holes and where one piece overlaps another. Find out what the instructions say about re-coating the areas cut-in. Some primer and/or paint needs to be scuffed/sanded to accept additional coats after it has dried, others don"t, or don"t if re-coated withing a certain time period.

- You don"t need anything fancy or expensive to make this project come out well. Do be careful about rain or dew and temps that are too cold.

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