Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

CNKS----

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Rod (NH)

06-10-2006 19:20:36




Report to Moderator

CN,

I was cleaning up my shop today (trying anyway) and ran across an old empty bottle of PPG's DX-102 Stat-Free "dirt eliminator". I can't remember if the subject of static electricity was ever mentioned in the previous discussion(s) about your dirt/dust problem. PPG's website doesn't list the 102 but does list a DX-103 that appears to perform the same function, among others. At least that's PPG's claim. I had tried the 102 once long ago but never bothered with it again since it required two separate application steps. I never really determined if it helped anything or not. I also don't know if static electricity is an issue in painting or is irrelevant. I have heard about painters grounding car bodies to eliminate or minimize dust/dirt but I have also heard that to be considered a waste of time. Perhaps B--- or someone else has thoughts on the subject.

BTW, I hope you found that mini buffer to be worth the cost. I assume you have tried it out by now. There's also a 2" pad available for it as noted on the parts list.

Rod

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
B-maniac

06-11-2006 19:26:11




Report to Moderator
 Re: CNKS---- in reply to Rod (NH), 06-10-2006 19:20:36  
I,also, have never seen any bennefit in "grounding" a paint job. Where the stat-free products work and are needed is when painting urethane or plastic or fiberglass body parts.As you know they act as a dust magnet.You wipe them down with 330 and hit them with stat-free as quick as possible. One thing you can do to reduce the lint and dust in your paint jobs is this. Somewhere within 15' of what you are painting, hang a good sized sheet of black plastic. You know,the garbage bag type stuff that comes in rolls. It will attract an awfull lot of dust that would normally float around and end up in your paint.You can either take it down,carefully,before you paint or leave it up as long as you don't spray a lot of air that direction.It's called using "static" to your advantage. It works!

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
CNKS

06-11-2006 19:42:33




Report to Moderator
 Re: CNKS---- in reply to B-maniac, 06-11-2006 19:26:11  
Hadn't thought of that one, I might try it.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
CNKS

06-10-2006 20:04:24




Report to Moderator
 Re: CNKS---- in reply to Rod (NH), 06-10-2006 19:20:36  
Thanks, it may be worth a try. However, it says it may soften primers, so that may eliminate it, I don't know. I have thought of static electricity. I usually paint on plywood (actually OSB), covered with paper, more recently masking paper instead of newspaper (which isn't "clean" anyway) set on metal sawhorses; or a cart with a plywood top and RUBBER wheels. I have attached a chain to the cart and laid the chain on my concrete floor. I have noticed no difference whether I paint on the sawhorses or the cart. I suppose I should drill a hole in my cement and drive a metal rod in the ground. But, as you say I'm not convinced there is anything to it. I have worked on a wet floor, which doesn't seem to help either. I am not positive it is all dirt or lint, but I still have the problem. I am about done with the stuff that I don't want any defects in, all I have left is some white trim, and miscellaneous parts plus some cast parts, I believe. The buffer works fine, thanks a lot, much easier to control than my big one. I did not like the pads that came with it, and ordered some from another source. They were concave pads, just the opposite of what I think I need. I also have a good 6 inch orbital buffer that I use for the final polish. But, I am thinking of getting the orbital sander version like you have, and put the pads on it. The orbital action does not get the polish as hot, it spreads better and lasts longer, it will fit better into tight places for the final polish, such as between the V shaped braces on the inside of fenders. The rotary (non-orbital) is much better at removing scratches, as you do need heat there. Regardless, I still intend to somehow solve my dirt/lint/defect problem, but not on this tractor, or I'll never get done.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Rod (NH)

06-10-2006 21:03:51




Report to Moderator
 Re: CNKS---- in reply to CNKS, 06-10-2006 20:04:24  
The 2" and 3" pads that come with the RO sander are hook and loop type with the hook on the pad. They have a 1/4-20 UNC threaded male stud on them to attach to the sander. I don't know if the buffer pads/bonnets are the same. If not, I am sure something can be made to work for polishing purposes. BTW, 3M Hook-It Gold 3" discs come in different grits and work just fine with the CP sander. When I want a 2" disc, I just cut down a 3" one. I won't go back to CP and pay a premium for small quantities of their "custom" discs. I've also attached the maroon, general purpose Scotch-Brite to the pads - just cut it to fit the pad diameter. Works great.

Rod

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
CNKS

06-11-2006 07:04:47




Report to Moderator
 Re: CNKS---- in reply to Rod (NH), 06-10-2006 21:03:51  
I have 3M's catalog ordered, as I have trouble sorting through their web site. The buffing pads attach the same as your sanding discs. Where things get messed up is that 3M also has what they call "Hook It II", the hook and loop are reversed meaning if you change brands you have to have two pads along with two interface pads, if needed. I have no clue as to why 3M did that, I suppose so they can make you buy more stuff. That's what I have on another air sander I have. Eventually I will get "almost" everything I need. I started all this in 2001, with nothing except a set of wrenches, and am still buying "start up" equipment. I need to order a supply of pads and sanding discs, as not many places locally stock anything but 6 inch.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy