Oliver 1650D Steering

Glad to see that you jumped in on this one. I had to repair the couplers and reseal the hydramotors on 1 of our 1650's and also our 1655 in the last couple of months and was tempted to disconnect everything from the dash and do from the top, but opted pull the tinwork and tank instead. The coupler splines on the 1650D were worn out and it was doing the same thing as what Mike is describing.

I wasn't sure if I could get enough wrench swing and leverage to loosen the column tube and jam nut from the top only. Even with pulling the tinwork and tank, the job only took a little over 2 hours. However, I went into the hydramotors only as far as the shaft seal which as you know, is accessed simply by removing the snap ring.

I noticed the column is starting to get a little loose on our other 1650. I'll try doing that one from the top.

Tell me - what was GM's goof that you are referring to?

Regards,
Scott

It sounds like the coupler that attaches to the hydramotor input shaft is worn. To access it, pull the hood, fuel tank and the cover over the dash switches. Loosen the gauge panel and remove the steering wheel. Loosen the clamp (or jam nut, depending on the type of hydramotor you have) at the base of the steering column tube. Slide the tube up and you will see the coupler nut. You can try tightening the nut, but chances are the splines in the coupler are worn out. Best to replace it with a rebuilt. Maibach's has them. Phone# (800)808-9934

I would reseal the hydramotor input shaft while I was there as well. Maibach's has the seal kits and they are priced reasonably. Also, check the condition of the hoses going to/from the hydramotor. It would be good time to replace any that are leaking or look bad.

Good luck,
Scott